• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Checking oil level when hot...why ?

Now there's an idea! You give the bike a flogging so the oil gets all hot and collects all particulates still around or about to let go of their attachment to the various walls, bits and pieces. Then you let the bike sit for a good while with the sump on a thing like this

UK_GarlandInduction_Unit.jpg


so the oil drains to the bottom and keeps nicely warm, and then you drain.

(no, I'm not saying you should fry anything in the pan that collects the oil ... no matter how much it looks like gravy :silly:)
 
Aww, you guys.....sniff..:blush:

Kym, me and you could do with a "Numpty Area" on the site.....:laugh:

Gary, good fishing post....I see you hooked one....:cheer: I knew coming from the home of the "Cat and Fiddle" that you`d have a sense of humour....!

RJ, thats just wrong..:laugh:

Eric B)
 
Holt wrote:
Gary wrote:
Noe tyre pressures are another thing, To get the best I only check mine hot, less moisture in the air.

As all OEM tire-pressure values are for cold (20 *C) tires, I'd like to know how you compensate for that? ;)

10%. Check pressure cold, say 40psi, when hot they should be no more than 44 psi. If less than 10%, cold tire pressure is too high. Make sense? I realize that it's picking the fly sh!t out of the pepper, but I think that is the correct way to find your best tire pressure for the load on the bike..
 
I just could not resist.
The oil check is specified for check when hot, because of the same reason to drain oil hot.
The oil cooler is thermostaticly contolled.So draining while hot allows for the cooler to also drain.
If you are changing oil cold you will not be draining fluid from cooler.
And of course after the machine has cooled and you intoduce fresh cold oil the cooler is not filled untill operated up to temp and thermostat opens again.
This also why after an oilchange, when the system gulps after the thermostat opens , the machine will show a oil pressure fault.
Here at the Farm we try to drain while hot, but not always possible, so if done cold we loosen cooler lines and drain.
Either way after an oil change, a test ride is required, and the fault is cleared.We have never seen a false oil pressure fault again!!!
Hope this helps explain. Of course the tech just :) when we fiqured out a test drive was also part of an oil change!!!
 
RoseFarmer

Thanks for your post. Very interesting and educational. Now to see how much higher the oil level is when I check it hot for the first time!

Graham
 
RoseFarmer,

That's interesting, I thought all the oil drained to the sump when hot and all was needed was to remove it. I'll add that to what Graham said and never never never do a cold change again on any motor.


thanks

Robert
 
Where is the oil cooler thermostat? I had a gander in the manuals and can see nothing that looks like a thermostat, although I have no idea what one might look like so it might be staring me in the face.
 
Aah!

Didn't think of that. Smallblocks doesn't have oil-coolers. My old Beemer had, but OTOH no thermostat.

Not that they are not needed.... :S
 
Thanks Pete - looks like something that I should leave well enough alone, but it's nice to know where it is if I ever get the urge to tinker.....
 
Yet there's something looking like a small radiator at approximately the place our coolers are. What's that then?
 
Yeah, that's what I mean, though mine surely is somewhere else ;)
 
Hiya RoseFarm......

<<.......The oil cooler is thermostaticly contolled.So draining while hot allows for the cooler to also drain.
If you are changing oil cold you will not be draining fluid from cooler......>>

Would you mind just running that past again m8......I`m struggling with this gravity thing....:blush:

Eric B)
 
I think what's meant is that cold oil can't drain from the cooler because the thermostat controls a valve that opens only when working temperature requires it.

I guess that's to prevent that the oil gets too cold when riding at minus 50ºC or so? :silly:
 
pete roper wrote:
Mike.C wrote:
Where is the oil cooler thermostat? I had a gander in the manuals and can see nothing that looks like a thermostat, although I have no idea what one might look like so it might be staring me in the face.

GU07702_47.gif


Item 5.

Pete

I'm glad my Stelvio doesn't have this valve, I would hate for a piece of plastic and brass to stop the circulation of oil in my beast.

The Stelvio is a little different set up, it has two oil pumps, one for the motor and the other circulates oil threw the cooler. This is probably why the bike gets poor fuel mileage when the weather is cold, the engine really never gets to operating temps, kind of like my HD. Block off the air flow to the cooler in the winter time and the oil temp would rise and give you better fuel mileage.
 
All Guzzis (and possibly all air-cooled engines) get poorer mileage in cold weather. Find a way to heat the intake air and you'd probably already gain a lot. Cold air contains more oxygen, requiring more fuel to be injected.
 
RoseFarmer wrote:
I just could not resist.
The oil check is specified for check when hot, because of the same reason to drain oil hot.
The oil cooler is thermostaticly contolled.So draining while hot allows for the cooler to also drain.
If you are changing oil cold you will not be draining fluid from cooler.
And of course after the machine has cooled and you intoduce fresh cold oil the cooler is not filled untill operated up to temp and thermostat opens again.
This also why after an oilchange, when the system gulps after the thermostat opens , the machine will show a oil pressure fault.
Here at the Farm we try to drain while hot, but not always possible, so if done cold we loosen cooler lines and drain.
Either way after an oil change, a test ride is required, and the fault is cleared.We have never seen a false oil pressure fault again!!!
Hope this helps explain. Of course the tech just :) when we fiqured out a test drive was also part of an oil change!!!

I see the logic of this when checking the oil level after a refill but not for my daily/weekly/whenever check. Assuming the level is correct to start with at a hot reading, and it is near-as-whatever when checked cold, then the only thing I worry about is re-checking hot IF it needs topping up.


oh and the other benefit of draining while hot is that it drains more quickly (in theory)
 
kwn306 wrote:

The Stelvio is a little different set up, it has two oil pumps, one for the motor and the other circulates oil threw the cooler. This is probably why the bike gets poor fuel mileage when the weather is cold, the engine really never gets to operating temps, kind of like my HD. Block off the air flow to the cooler in the winter time and the oil temp would rise and give you better fuel mileage.[/quote]

The ETS is now down in the valley, I think that this will make little real difference to fuel consumptiom. I think ba bigger contribution to the poor fuel ecconomy on the 8V is down to poor air temperature compensation and the fact that overall the mapping is shitty. I can't believe that the poor engine has to run so rich most of the time apart from in the areas where mandated pollution testing takes place. This is the reason I'm so keen to get some form of map modification device or programming. While the 8V is fun it can be a whole lot funner!!!!

Pete
 
Back
Top