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Clutch and main seal on SP1000

C

CzDaveC

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 15, 2011
Messages
3
Location
San Bernardino, CA
Hi All, new to Guzzi's and looking for some helpful tips/input. I purchased a used 1980 SP1000 for touring with the wife. The initial Shakedown ride through Nevada revealed a badly leaking main seal. "Coats your left foot and rear disk with oil, and a clutch that while it engages smoothly slips when pulling out two up with gear when the bike gets hot or in heavy stop and go traffic. I have the manual for the bike and am familier with turning wrenches."What I am looking for are the hints/ tips that make doing a clutch job easy.Also what type of clutch is preffered? Riveted or bonded? I do have the clutch tools for removal etc.Such as what to look out for etc. Also due to the age of the bike would it be a good idea to replace the driveshaft u-joints while I am in there? Thanks in advance for your time.

Dave P.S. Bike had spent 15yrs in a box prior to my ressurection of it.
 
I believe you have more than one oil leak. The big one probably is the engine rear main. The one causing the clutch to slip is either the transmission input seal, or the seals on the clutch push rod. Crabbing the frame is the easiest way to gain access. Since you have the clutch tools, that will help, but you will need to get the tools for the transmission hub gear and to hold the hub gear. Since you are putting in new clutch plates, you want a new hub gear anyway. Go with the improved 4mm deep splines. I believe MG cycle sells some if not all the tools you will need. Considering the age of the bike, I'd also replace all the seals, o-rings, and shift return spring in the transmission as long as it is apart. If you don't have a parts manual for the bike, you can download one here. http://www.tlm.nl/onderdelenboeken/
 
Thanks for the quick replies. I have the tools for the hub also, both the deep spline and the 2 mm. I am going to be putting some serious miles on the SP and I want it to be right.Is there a preferance between the riveted clutch plates and the bonded ? Also when I was on MG Cycles webpage there are several differant options for the U-joints and I am not sure which is correct for the SP. I am getting it ready for a long trip through Utah in a few weeks and want to make sure its ready.

Dave
 
Hi Dave, I'll place my money on the pushrod seal as the culprit. You'll find out when you open her up. Both the rear main and trans in put seal are out of the way of the friction plates. I had a rear main (bearing not the seal) spewing oil and none of it got on the clutch plates.

I'm installing the riveted clutch plates because the bonded types I've seen are made by Sureflex. The hub splines on this brand seem to wear rapidly fail more often than others. I've never seen a rivet contact an adjoining plate, always something else. You may want to read some of the other clutch threads. Here's one to start: https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/197/5820.html

The best deal for the U-joint is the German made kit that includes the bearing. Most likely the u-joint did not rotate along with the bearing race thus causing some wear and increasing the clearance. So they won't fit tight as they should. You can inspect when you take them out. But most likely you'll need to replace for one reason or another -best to both together The u-joint is a bitch to get into the bearing, apparently there is a special MG tool to guide it in along with a temperature differential procedure. I ended up using another procedure altogether.

Guzziology recommends using o-rings in lieu of the MG seals on the push rod. Found that system in my SP, no leaks there - very redundant system. You'll have to contact MI for the o-ring size, they didn't publish that. Dave may even email you the o-ring install procedure.

At the trans output seal MG added a new shim to mate with the o-ring. I installed it before I found out it was not necessary since is was meant to be used in exposed drive shaft bikes like the Daytona. Now I have to vent the rear drive since the pressure cannot escape thru the trans. I't not worth it to me to remove it.

I'll be in Utah in a few weeks too. But I'll be taking some dirt roads. Then back to Nevada for the state rally.

If you on Hwy 24 near Cainsville (sp) stop and have a snack at the Cafe. You won't miss it if your doing less than 80mph.
 
What the others said plus:
While you have it apart I would pressurize the crankcase up (like 5psi max) and check for leaks with some soapy water. The factory manual suggest the same but filling the crankcase with water! This saves the bother of finding leaks AFTER it is all together again. it is worth the 20 minutes it takes to figure out how to pressurize the engine.

The oil return can be a source of leak - I forget whether the SP has a separate line or returns via the heads. I would remove the PCV valve between the crankcase and breather box and the one inside the breather box if there is one and move it to where it should have been - at the pipe that goes to atmosphere. This will stop any mayonnaise. Lightly stuffing the breather box with stainless steel wool is a good idea to help separate oil from air .

The plug at the back of the cam can also leak. I seal them with the loctite super wick-in bearing seal.

The main bearing carrier bolts can leak as some of them go directly through to the crankcase - I put loctite pipe thread sealant on them.
 
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