Clutch arm pivot pin

[Yam]

Hi there. I am attempting to remove the aluminium clutch arm pivot pin, under the gearbox, as it needs greasing. I have so far been unsuccessful. Is there a handy way of doing this, without using excessive force? Is there a special tool available for this job? The bike is a 2013 Stone. Thanks for any help.

 

[sign216]

Yam,
I lubricate the clutch arm in place, with a Teflon spray.
For the cable up at the handlebar I use Dri-Slide.

I think spraying lube on the clutch arm vs removing it to lube, is the best use of my time.

Joe

 

[Yam]

Hi Joe. I've greased the hand clutch lever, clutch cable and the clutch arm pivot, externally, but the clutch action is still stiff, and the clutch slips with the engine under heavy load. The clutch arm pivot pin was possibly not lubed upon assembly at the factory, and it is my last point of call of investigating this problem. The pivot is exposed to masses of road salt and other junk, positioned where it is, but doesn't look like it was designed to be taken out, which I find rather peculiar. Thanks for your thoughts.
Robin.

 

[pyoungbl]

Robin,
Is there any chance that your clutch cable has been damaged by contact with the right cylinder? I know that many of the V7 Racers had the cable actually running between the cooling fins and suffered melting of the sheath.
The clutch slipping is something I'd be very concerned about. Either something in the linkage is not allowing full travel or your clutch springs are not doing their job...the clutch should not slip under load. How much free play do you have at the clutch lever?

Peter Y.

 

[Yam]

Hi Peter. Thanks for your concern. When I took the clutch cable out to oil, I rerouted it away from the cylinder, threading it through a plastic loop under the frame when I put it back. As it's set up at the moment, the cable adjustment can be considered tight, with hardly any free play. I have to do this because the clutch drags otherwise, making gear changes impossible. I have to find the balance between as little clutch -drag and slip as possible, and often have to adjust the cable whilst I'm riding, slackening the cable when hitting the open road to stop the clutch slipping upon acceleration, and tightening the cable when coming to a junction to make down shifting into lower gears possible. A strange state of affairs, I know. There just doesn't appear to be enough free-play in the system, and barring problems with the actual clutch itself, which is beyond my level of competence to deal with, I have whittled the cause down to the clutch actuating arm not pivoting properly on the pin, due to a lack of lubrication.
Robin.

 

[sign216]

Could it be something else? Like the clutch arm hitting something? Whole thing sounds like more than a lack of lubrication.

 

[bdcfe]

.

 

[GTM®]

I know of one (so far) 2013 V7S that had the clutch pushrod replaced under warranty (can't say how it failed just yet). If your clutch suddenly goes way out of adjustment, take it back to the dealer.

 

[pyoungbl]

When I took the clutch cable out to oil, I rerouted it away from the cylinder, threading it through a plastic loop under the frame when I put it back..

Robin,
Was everything working OK prior to lubricating the cable? No slipping? First, you should not need to lube the cable. Modern cables run in a plastic (nylon) sheath which is a low friction surface. The pivot pin at the lever might need some lube, as well as the transmission pivot area. Moving the clutch cable up into that plastic loop just might be causing some of the problem due to somehow making the routing too long, which is made up by having to take all the adjustment out of the inner cable. The first thing I would do is to get the clutch cable out of that plastic loop, maybe using a zip tie to keep the cable off the left cylinder. I put a split section of fuel line over my cable to keep it from dropping between the fins. This will also give the cable a more direct path. By reducing the bends in the cable you can try to get any friction down to the absolute minimum.

I'm personally very sensitive to clutch pull ever since I broke a finger last September and won't have full strength on the left hand for a year or so. Heavy gloves make it hard for me to use the clutch much in traffic, thin gloves are much better. As for shifting, I find that once I get out of first gear it only takes a light pull on the clutch to free it enough to shift up or down...no need to bring the lever all the way back to the bar. It's a real joy! Lightly load the shift lever, momentarily pull in the clutch lever just a tad and suddenly you are smoothly accelerating in the next gear.

Now, if you figure out good settings for the suspension.....always appreciate some input there.

Peter Y.

 

[bdcfe]

.

 

[Yam]

Yes, thanks for all your response! Just got back from work, and the ride was a nightmare as now only first and second gear engage (and neutral). I shall phone the dealer tomorrow who has his shop 65 miles away, and hope he can come and collect my bike to have his mechanic check it out. I shall keep you posted.
Robin.

 

[Yam]

Well, unfortunately I needed the bike again this morning, so before setting off, I made a last ditch attempt at getting the gear-change working again. I crept under the bike and brushed of all the gunge covering the gear change linkage with a toothbrush, and then sprayed everything liberally with penetrating oil. I have all the gears at my disposal again! The clutch actuating arm and gear change linkage are very vulnerable to road grime, positioned where they are. And as I am obviously new to Guzzi's, I will have to learn to regularly clean this area. I also took the clutch cable out of the plastic loop, and let it lie in it's original position. I might sheath the area of cable adjacent to the cylinder. Thanks for the tip! Nevertheless, I have an inkling that my clutch woes may possibly continue. Will keep you informed.
Robin.

 

[Yam]

Ok, it appears I've been barking up the wrong tree all along. I took the gear shift linkage off, took it apart, gave it a good clean, lubricated it, and put it back in place and tightened it. Not only do all my gears firmly engage again with a definite 'click', the clutch slip which became apparent under acceleration when going from 4th to 5th gear, has now disappeared. Thanks for everyone's support and input.
Robin.

 

[Guz5]

I had a V7 classic recently which had the clutch arm lever pivot pin dry and tight. This stopped the clutch releasing completly and the thrust bearing seized and also the push rod tip overheated.
Heat the arm end and tap with a specially made long punch and remove eventually, using some spray lube often

 

[Yam]

Thanks for the tip, Guz. I couldn't get the punch square on the pivot pin because the frame got in the way. I might try heating the lever arm next time I attempt this job, and hope that in the process I don't wreck any of the paint. Thanks again.
Robin.

 

[PhilPassmore]

Hi there. I am attempting to remove the aluminium clutch arm pivot pin, under the gearbox, as it needs greasing. I have so far been unsuccessful. Is there a handy way of doing this, without using excessive force? Is there a special tool available for this job? The bike is a 2013 Stone. Thanks for any help.

Late yet again to another party (sorry). I had exactly the same issue after my Sporti had been stood for a while. As the pivot is a bit innaccesible (as you have found out) I resorted to huge quantities of spray lube being applied, at the same time leaving the cable unhooked, and working the opperating arm back and forwards with a lever twixt it and the frame. A little at a time, the arm freed off. I suspect the best dismantling tool for the pivot itself will be heat. Be cautious about using too much force on the pin as it's quite easy to break one of the lugs on the gearbox (don't ask me how I know).

Phil

 

[Stoneman]

Late yet again to another party (sorry). I had exactly the same issue after my Sporti had been stood for a while. As the pivot is a bit innaccesible (as you have found out) I resorted to huge quantities of spray lube being applied, at the same time leaving the cable unhooked, and working the opperating arm back and forwards with a lever twixt it and the frame. A little at a time, the arm freed off. I suspect the best dismantling tool for the pivot itself will be heat. Be cautious about using too much force on the pin as it's quite easy to break one of the lugs on the gearbox (don't ask me how I know).

Phil

Like Phil I have actually broken off a lug (I'm not too proud to admit it - consider it a senior moment). The rear gearbox casing is about Eur 200, and won't be cheaper in the US!

You do learn how to rebuild the gearbox and adjust the clearances (Well worth doing on older Guzzis to make better changes).

To remove the frozen pin use Easing Oil and Heat. It could be frozen in either the casing or the arm, or both!
I am "mechanically competent", but still managed to break of a lug after making up a press specifically for the job from a modified G-Clamp. After the pin first moved then it stuck again in the arm (perhaps the pin had swollen under the force of the press, or had simply bound tight again). One injudicious tap was enough to snap off the lug and create an expensive job.

Once removed fit a new pin (<$10), assemble using Moly or even copper grease. (Steel against alloy is bound to corrode).

Make it a regular greasing job and remove and redo at least every year. On older big-blocks you could consider fitting a rubber mudguard extension to stop all of that rubbish being thrown onto the gearbox.

Hope this helps..

 

[Jimmy_]

Hi everyone,

I've been having clutch issues and not being able to get my bike into gear a short while into my ride...when the engine heats up.

After trying everything I've read in forums, I'd ran out of ideas, but I think after reading the above comments the pivot pin might be the issue. Did you have the same issues with the clutch when hot?

Why i think it might be the same is when changing the clutch rod and barings i tried to take the pivot pin off but it wouldnt budge. I got a little scared to force it so removed the mud guard, allowing the actuator arm to come down so i could remove the rod etc. Anyway, I've replaced and adjusted everything i can without removing the clutch all together.

Forum link here:
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-stone-2014-clutch-issues.23463/

Also, was anyone able to remove without removing the rear of the bike? Would like to avoid doing that again if possible.

Thanks,
Jimmy

 

[john zibell]

Hi everyone,

I've been having clutch issues and not being able to get my bike into gear a short while into my ride...when the engine heats up.

After trying everything I've read in forums, I'd ran out of ideas, but I think after reading the above comments the pivot pin might be the issue. Did you have the same issues with the clutch when hot?

Why i think it might be the same is when changing the clutch rod and barings i tried to take the pivot pin off but it wouldnt budge. I got a little scared to force it so removed the mud guard, allowing the actuator arm to come down so i could remove the rod etc. Anyway, I've replaced and adjusted everything i can without removing the clutch all together.

Forum link here:
https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/v7-stone-2014-clutch-issues.23463/

Also, was anyone able to remove without removing the rear of the bike? Would like to avoid doing that again if possible.

Thanks,
Jimmy

The swing arm has to be removed. I doubt the pivot pin is you shifting problem. If you want to remove it in the future soak the area in a 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone. It is the best penetrating fluid you can use. I hope you removed the cotter pin at the end when you tried to pull the pin.

 

[Jimmy_]

Thanks @john zibell

Appreciate the fast response.

Frustrating the rear needs to come off again but good to be aware of a good mix to get it out...thanks. yes the cotter pin had been removed first.

Jimmy