• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Clutch Not Disengaging

alxpwl

Just got it firing!
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
21
Location
Tacoma, WA
I have been experiencing clutch problems lately. I just bled the clutch and it still will not fully disengage when lever is pulled in. The warmer it gets, the worse it gets.

Is there anything I can do to adjust the pull, or is it time for a disassembly. It's a 2012 NTX with 20,000 miles.
 
Look at the clutch lever. I believe there is an adjustment there where it acts on the clutch master. Also be sure to change all the fluid in the system.
 
Due to the age of the bike, and (possible lack of) fluid change/service, my bet is either the master cylinder and/or slave cylinder may need to be cleaned and/or replaced. I sell both on the online STORE and/or you can email us direct; Sales @GTMotoCycles.com - we have other superior upgrade options online as well. The stock master isn’t great.
There's a remote chance the clutch plate is toast, but not likely based on mileage alone provided it wasn't abused.


 
I used a 1 way valve, and did my best to keep the master filled. I pumped the clutch lever slowly to avoid it shooting out the master. I pumped it until clear fluid was visible in the tube. I would say I pumped out about 6oz of fluid to be sure. I did not notice any air bubbles, fingers crossed. I did try adjusting the pin on the lever, but did not want to unscrew it too much. This is probably the second or third fluid change.
 
What I’m looking for is you bled it via the stainless steel wrapped bleed hose under the seat, yes?

438554E8 73C6 4ACD 8B59 20B46043EB2D

There is also an adjustment that can be made on the hydraulic clutch pressure pin at the lever on the reservoir.

 
Last edited:
Yes, from under the seat. How many twists of threads, on the lever, is too much. I don't want to do too much.
 
Read the post please. I didn’t write it. I believe it states “careful increments” and explains why too much is bad.

“I put an index mark on the pushrod and threaded the pushrod out a couple of turns to tighten up the brake cylinder. Do this in careful increments and be sure to tighten the grub screw when finished.”

I will advise you that if you opened the bleed valve too much, and you were not expelling the fluid under some pressure resistance at all times, then you will have air down there in the system which can be causing or enhancing your issue.

There is also a high likelihood that Todd (GTM) has already told you, that your 10 year old hardware needs replacement.

The parts are not what I would call expensive.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top