clutch plate cracks

[jbu]

Well I have my clutch out of the T3. The friction plates were soaked in oil, I have them sitting in a bath of lacquer thinner at the moment, will this resurrect the plates?
I also noticed that there is a small (stress) crack on the intermediate plate. Is this something I should be concerned about or should I slap it back in as is.

Thanks, Joël

 

[john zibell]

Once oil soaked, I wouldn't use the friction plates. Also since it is a T-3, you may have the old 2mm splines on the plates and hub gear. I'd replace everything, especially the intermediate plate. The intermediate plate isn't expensive.

So, new plates (4mm), clutch hub gear (4mm), clutch push rod seals (may be what took out the plates), front transmission seal and anything else you can get to in the transmission. The T-3 came with the good input and output bearing so those should be OK. If the shift return spring hasn't been replaced, I'd do that too while the transmission is out. The labor is in splitting the beast. Once apart, do all you can. Maybe even the rear main seal if original, or been there a long time. Take a look at Roper's transmission how to for the transmission work. Special tools also help, mainly for the clutch assembly and clutch hub nut. The output can be done with a deep impact socket and an impact wrench, although I prefer to assemble using the special hand tools.

 

[jbu]

Thanks for the reply. It currently has the 4mm clutch hub gear. I will go ahead and order new plates. I just finished replacing all the seals in the gearbox (thanks John Noble and Pete Roper for the great instructions!). i also replaced the broken shift return spring.

I guess my next step is to try and seal the bell housing area, I read in this old tractor that I should JB weld the cam plug and use a sealer on the 2 bottom rear main flange securing bolts.

If there's anything else Let me know I'm all ears.

Thanks, Joël

 

[john zibell]

Thanks for the reply. It currently has the 4mm clutch hub gear. I will go ahead and order new plates. I just finished replacing all the seals in the gearbox (thanks John Noble and Pete Roper for the great instructions!). i also replaced the broken shift return spring.

I guess my next step is to try and seal the bell housing area, I read in this old tractor that I should JB weld the cam plug and use a sealer on the 2 bottom rear main flange securing bolts.

If there's anything else Let me know I'm all ears.

Thanks, Joël

Personally, I've never seen the cam plug leak, but as long as you are there, why not. I don't know if the bottom two bolt holes for the rear main go through or are blind for the T-3. If blink holes, no need for sealant. Where did the oil come from to get to your plates? Had to be either the transmission input seal, or the seals on the clutch push rod. Oil from the cam plug and rear main can't get to the clutch plates.

 

[jbu]

I'm not sure where the oil cam from. I replaced the original plastic seal on the clutch rod with a pair of the rubber cone seals. This could have been the problem.

I will replace the rear seal as well soon.

The 2 bolt holes on the flange do in fact go all the way through the case on the T3.

There's also a chance that oil came from the exterior of the case an in through where the breather lines come in on top of the bell housing. There are major gaps there. This motor was absolutely filthy, I have no idea what it went through that's why I'm going through everything right now. I also just want to get more familiar with what goes on in there.

As per the friction plates, I shipped them to Mark E. to have them rebound, he's also going to take a look at the intermediate plate and let me know if it should be replaced.

Joël

 

[john zibell]

The flywheel/clutch assembly is a pretty tight unit. It is impossible for oil to get in there from an outside source unless the bell housing fills with oil so that the oil level is so high it is above the opening of the ring gear. Your only direct source, is the clutch push rod. Secondarily oil can travel the clutch hub gear to get to the clutch plates. As for the breather leaks or any other leak getting oil to the clutch plates, I doubt it. If you think the rubber seals on the push rod is the source, they may have been installed backwards (I put the large end to the rear on both). If you want to go another route, MI will sell you a bunch of o-rings to place on the push rod. It is a little harder to get the push rod in place, but the o-rings seal very well.

 

[Chris R]

Personally, I've never seen the cam plug leak, but as long as you are there, why not.

I have - my lemans was a bad leaker and I eventually tracked it down to the cam plug.

My fix was to stick the engine nose down and pour some loctite bearing fit around the plug. BTW the green 'Super Wickin' type is awesome for porous castings. I reckon this is probably more permanent than JB weld or similar.

Also I put loctite PST on the two through bolts on the main bearing carrier. It is not a bad idea to pressurize the engine before refitting the transmission - the original factory manual has the wacky suggestion that you fill the crankcase with water and pressurize! I would just make the appropriate plugs-fittings and pressurize the thing to maybe 5-10 psi. Beware of the crank turning over and listen for hissing, use soapy water around the main bearing seal etc.

As John suggest the breather return is another good source.

Re: the intermediate plate.I would definitely replace. I have never had one crack but others have - I saw one solution where the guy drilled holes say every 30 degrees mid way up the plate and then cut slots down to the middle. The idea being that it would stop any warpage/cracking caused by differential heating. It seems to me like a good idea. Although I suspect such heating only occurs from slipping clutches in the first place.

 

[jbu]

Thanks Chris, I like your idea of using the wickin loctite instead of the JB.

Joël