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Clutch slip in upper gears

Hockhog

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 24, 2012
Messages
7
Location
NY
Last week I bought my first Guzzi, a 2002 California Stone Metal with just under 2,300 miles. Everything seems great so far except the clutch seems to be slipping in 4th and 5th gears under hard acceleration. 1st through 3rd gears don't have any noticeable slip at any throttle position. If I roll on the throttle slowly in 4th and 5th I don't feel any slip but when I get on it hard the engine just revs with very little acceleration. Is there something I can do to try and remedy this or is my new two wheeled obsession going for an extended stay in the shop?
 
I believe you have a cable operated clutch.
Is it adjusted correctly? Much simpler than engine out.

Is there any evidence of oil leaking from engine/transmission into bell housing?
Oil will drain from BDC where housing mates to crank case.
 
I believe you have a cable operated clutch.
Is it adjusted correctly? Much simpler than engine out.

Is there any evidence of oil leaking from engine/transmission into bell housing?
Oil will drain from BDC where housing mates to crank case.




It is a cable operated clutch. There is a bit of slack both at the lever and on the clutch arm end.

I do see some oil showing on the bottom of the oil pan and directly behind the pan where it attaches to the motor (ahead of the cross member and crossover pipe.)
 
There should be more experienced people weighing in here.

Wipe your finger in the oil dripping down the back of the sump pan.
Engine oil indicates engine rear main seal.
Gearbox oil indicates gearbox input shaft seal. (this oil stinks, ok).

Either or, you still have to remove engine and separate gearbox from crankcase to access the seals, and while you are there replace both. OK!

Now the clutch, it remains to be seen whether it can be recovered from its lubricated state.
Conventional wisdom says replace it. If it continues to slip you will need to remove the engine again.

Oil contamination of fibre plates can be cleaned, but talk to the experts.
 
Also if it is transmission oil, it is possible it is from the clutch push rod seals. It doesn't really matter as to correct the problem the contaminated plates must be replaced, the intermediate plate replaced or cleaned and resurfaced, and while there, just get every seal you can. Also on some engines, the bottom two holes for the rear main are through holes. Those need to be sealed as well. I'm not sure if your bike is in that category or not. Let us know what you discover.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. My best guess is that it's engine oil I'm finding due to it's lack of odor and how thin it is.

Any recommendations on where I can find the engine seals online?
 
Hockhog said:
Thanks for the advice guys. My best guess is that it's engine oil I'm finding due to it's lack of odor and how thin it is.

Any recommendations on where I can find the engine seals online?

Engine oil shouldn't be able to get to the clutch. Once you are in there, do look for clutch contamination from the push rod seals. I think it is best to support your local dealer, but if you don't have one try here http://www.mgcycle.com/
 
John,

Is the clutch slipping in a higher gears a symptom contaminated plates? Never got this symptom from any of my worn clutches.

I've had major engine leaks and oil never made it to the clutch. But never had a push rod seal leak on any of my bikes. I thought that the holes in the clutch hub was suppose to throw the trans oil away from the clutch???

HockHog, good luck and stay away from Surflex clutch plates they chew up clutch hubs - well, at least mine.
 
Rafael,

If the push rod seals leak, oil is delivered at the pressure plate, then spreads back to the clutch plates. Engine oil as you noted doesn't get to the clutch plates because the flywheel encases the clutch plates. Oil from the transmission front seal can get to the plates, but not as readily as if the push rod seals are leaking.
 
Hey John, due to the possibility of push rod seals going hard through lack of use, 2,300 miles in 10 years, is it possible to change these with motor in frame.
 
ghezzi said:
Hey John, due to the possibility of push rod seals going hard through lack of use, 2,300 miles in 10 years, is it possible to change these with motor in frame.

Yes it is. Drop the swing arm, and pull the lever and throw out bearing. The rod and seals can be removed from the back.
 
My continued appreciation for your guidance. I do notice some fluid at the back of the transmission where the clutch linkage accesses it.

I found a local shop who's owner used to be a mechanic at a Guzzi dealership so I think I'm going let him handle this project. I'll follow up with the final outcome.
 
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