• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Clutch transmission lever squeal?

GoodKat

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
124
Location
Romania
Hi guys, before contacting the dealer (I really don't like that dealership and it's the only one around) I want to see if I'm able to sort this out, any tech tip is welcome.

I've noticed this high pitch sound when pulling the clutch lever with the engine off. Are there any greasing points that should be lubricated or am I missing something? Could be this be a clutch issue or simply a linkage lubrication issue?

The bike has only 2700 km's the clutch was well adjusted and never abused it as in waiting on red lights with the clutch pulled in, only on Neutral, since I'm doing this with all of my bikes.

I'm not 100% sure if this is the cause, but two days ago I've washed the bike with the power washer and today I've noticed this sound.

What I did until now: took off both cable ends (from the hand clutch lever and the transmission lever, took off the spring that pushes against the lever from the transmission side and greased with some graphite grease. The sound seems to be well dampened now but you can still hear it.

Should the clutch rod end be also greased? Are there any greasing points that should be periodically lubricated?

Here's the video.



Cheers!
 
You can grease the pin the clutch arm pivots on. Disconnect the clutch cable first and be sure to not lose the spring behind the clutch lever arm at the back of the gearbox.
 
You can grease the pin the clutch arm pivots on. Disconnect the clutch cable first and be sure to not lose the spring behind the clutch lever arm at the back of the gearbox.

Hi John, thank you for chiming in!

Do you mean this pin that is marked with red in this photo? Should I be careful to other things while doing this operation, since I don't want to mess with the clutch adjustment from the transmission side? The spring sits in a blind hole? Should I also grease it?

How about the clutch rod end that goes in the clutch lever arm? Should this also be greased? Or the grease could affect / help untighten the adjuster screw?
Any general advices?

Sorry for the great number of questions, I'm pretty well used to wrenching on my vehicles but being a new toy to me, I prefer asking first rather than do stupid stuff then ask.

Cheers!
 

Attachments

  • Pin.PNG
    Pin.PNG
    538.8 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:
The lever you show needs to have the pin on the far left pulled then lubed with waterproof grease. Then do the same to the far right end with the ball/cable end in it and grease the spring seats too. Then do the ball up at the clutch lever at the handle bars. Don't pressure wash these areas!
 
Yes, that pin lined in red. Do not touch the adjustment screw. As Vagrant said, just unhook the clutch cable and use the type of greae he mentioned.
 
Ok, so back from the bike. Took off the lever, cleaned and greased the lever sides, pin, greased the cable ends, adjusted the cable tension from the hand lever. The squeak still persists. I'm puzzled.
 
Ok, so back from the bike. Took off the lever, cleaned and greased the lever sides, pin, greased the cable ends, adjusted the cable tension from the hand lever. The squeak still persists. I'm puzzled.
I'll give you an old mechanic solution. Turn up the radio so you can't here the noise. The squeak probably isn't harming anything so don't worry about it.
 
Contacted the dealership, they told me that I can take it apart and grease it. I also greased the cable with some teflon lubricant, I know it is not really needed but just wanted to exclude all the possibilities.

While fiddling around I noticed that If I bend the clutch cable in a certain position the sound stops almost completly. I want to do some more tests:

1. Actuate the clutch without the spring, to eliminate the possibility of spring rubbing against the cases.

2. Actuate the clutch lever using a piece of round pipe, to exclude the cable completely.
 
The sound makes me think of this area highlighted rubbing.

Squirt some silicon or other lubricant between this moving surface and the yoke it rides in, all the way around the areas that pass each other and on both sides.

Bet your sound disappears like a fart in the wind. 😆


D839B659 5894 4CF4 B8B0 1CEBE1C384B2
 
The sound makes me think of this area highlighted rubbing.

Squirt some silicon or other lubricant between this moving surface and the yoke it rides in, all the way around the areas that pass each other and on both sides.

Bet your sound disappears like a fart in the wind. 😆


View attachment 26235

Hey, Scott!
I thought the same, and to be honest there were some rubbing marks on that lever, smoothened them out with some very fine sand paper and used a graphite grease. But the sound is still there. I need to get a better grease though.

Can the pushrod that goes into the clutch casing cause that sound by any chance?
 
I'm not certain one way or another on this model.

I didn't think so initially but did you spray a little lubricant on the ferrel at the end of the cable. It's held in that crooked hook at the end of the lever. It it squeaking under load and rotation?

This is how I would locate it if I were there.

Surely, you have paper towels in Romania just like we do here in the USA. You need that cardboard tube in the middle.

Get down on your hands and knees and put that tube on your best ear keeping it snug between the tube and your ear.

Point the tube directly at various areas in the vicinity and have somebody operate the clutch. You will hear the sound very loudly and directly when you have the tube pointed directly at the source.

By using the tube, you will mute the other areas except for the area the tube is pointed at, and you will be able to zero in on the source.
 
Last edited:
I'm not certain one way or another on this model.

I didn't think so initially but did you spray a little lubricant on the ferrel at the end of the cable. It's held in that crooked hook at the end of the lever. It it squeaking under load and rotation?

This is how I would locate it if I were there.

Surely, you have paper towels in Romania just like we do here in the USA. You need that cardboard tube in the middle.

Get down on your hands and knees and put that tube on your best ear keeping it snug between the tube and your ear.

Point the tube directly at various areas in the vicinity and have somebody operate the clutch. You will hear the sound very loudly and directly when you have the tube pointed directly at the source.

By using the tube, you will mute the other areas except for the area the tube is pointed at, and you will be able to zero in on the source.

Good trick, here we were using a wooden dowel or a long screwdriver to locate / isolate the sound source. I've greased the ferrule, still the same. The good part is that I'm learning a lot about this bike while troubleshooting it.
 
Update: re-did everything I did yesterday, paid more attention, greased everything, the issue persists. I cannot 100% localize de sound but my guess is that the clutch spring plate makes this sound. Not 100% sure since I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I cannot think to anything else that might produce this sound.
 
Back
Top