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cold start / stalling / clutch

R

Ryuujin101

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 4, 2012
Messages
3
I've had my 2007 motto guzzi breva 750 for a few months now and it just hit the 10,000 mi. mark, but i'm having some issues with it. when i go to start it from cold using the cold start lever, i have to put it all the way down before it even senses that it is being activated. is there a way to adjust this or should i have it replaced/repaired professionally?

on another note i have an issue where i'll be riding and hold the clutch and as the rpm's drop it goes so low as to stall the bike, from high speed or low speed stops even if im just sitting at a stop light. i saw other forum post and it didn't really help to answer my question.

finally i am looking for a guide to use to repair the bike, mainly adjusting the clutch lever cable, it doesn't seem like it is fully engaging the clutch when pulled down, i can still hear a noise while in gear and its worse when i downshift to first from third for example.
 
I have the same cold start/stalling issue. In my case, the left hand coil keeps getting furred up where the plug lead connects. Each time I clean it, it gets better and then gradually gets worse until I pull it out and clean it again. this requires tank removal (at least partially) to get at the coil. Next time (this weekend) I'm going to put some grease in there to keep the water out.

As for clutch adjustment, there are two. One is the little knurled wheel at the lever and the other is at the back of the gearbox. The clutch lever has a bolt and locknut to adjust the free-play between the lever and the rod that goes through the gearbox. This should first be adjusted for free-play and then the slack in the cable taken up at the hand lever.

The idea is that with the clutch lever out, the lever at the back of the gearbox should not be pressing on the rod (not sure about what gap to set, but it should not be tight), and there should be no tension in the cable. Then the clutch return spring is doing its job and the clutch can fully engage.

If the above is nonsense I'm sure some one more expert than me will set me straight. :D

As for the noise you describe, do you mean a "clunk" when you change gears? I find I can improve this by "preloading" the lever with my foot before the change and then pushing it the rest of the way as I pull the clutch in. Usually (but not always) results in a relatively smooth and silent change. Downshifting to low gears will still clunk sometimes. That's just how it is as far as I know.
 
Which ever adjuster you use, you should have 3 to 4 mm of free play at the clutch lever. You check for the 3 to 4 mm at the opening between the clutch handle and the mounting piece at the front. I'm sure it is illustrated somewhere, but I haven't seen one in a long time. For the high idle lever, it is a cable that goes to an adjuster on the linkage. You can adjust the cable free length. There is fixture the cable runs through and is held by a set screw, just loosen the screw, pull a little bit of cable through, and tighten the screw. I'm not up on the small block right now but some have a screw adjustment for the fast idle linkage that will change when the mechanism engages.
 
The cold start lever are notorious for not being adjusted correctly from the factory, While operating the lever look on the right side throttle body you will see what lever it moves, you can adjust the cable by loosening the adjustment screw returning the lever to the off position, pull on cable till that slack is gone and re-tighten the adjustment screw. another help is to remove a couple of coils out of the return spring of the cold start assembly at the throttle body., It is really stronger then it needs to be.
 
I second Dan's reply; the cold-start lever is notorious for not being adjusted well at the factory and for having an overly strong return spring.

The fix is easy, and Dan's instructions are good. Just look at the right side throttle body while you move the cold-start lever, and you'll see how everything is connected. Shorten the spring and re-attach the cable.

Joe
 
Thanks for the comments everyone.
I was able to adjust the cold start lever and yeah it was a little loose in the wire, however its still not up to par on what I'm used too with the other bike i had (Honda nighthawk 750), but i think if i fiddle with it a little more that i can get it right.

The noise when shifting only really occurs when I'm moving 30mph+ and shift from 3rd or more to 1st or 2nd. the noise isn't a clunk i know that that is from the gear shifting, its like if I'm coasting downhill and i just hold the clutch down while in 1st or 2nd gear when i should probably be in 4th. more like a whirring noise then anything.

I'm about to go back out and take a look at the bike and figure out where the stuff is for changing the idle rpm, I'm having a little difficulty finding that at the moment, but i found some information on where its all located.
 
i'm not sure where the throttle stop screw is, however i have a few pictures of the air bleeds and where they are located so i'm going to use those to guide me.
 
Ryuujin101 said:
i'm not sure where the throttle stop screw is, however i have a few pictures of the air bleeds and where they are located so i'm going to use those to guide me.
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