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Cushdrive retainer

contractor20

contractor20

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
304
Location
Bairnsdale Victoria. OZ (west of NZ)
Getting to the end of a long resto. (A couple of years) on a 950 round barrel. The early narrow alloy rear wheel cushdrive retainer ring keeps on rubbing on the 8 bolts holding down the crown wheel carrier. It's doing this with out any power load applied and I'm assuming it will be worse under load due to cush rubber distortion forcing the cush hub out. I've gotten as far as grinding the raised lettering off but it's still touching a little due to the natural variance caused by the fact there is only 3 x 6mmbolts holding down the ring. I have thought about welding on 3 more points to decrease the distortion but it seems like the wrong way to go. I seem to remember the wire wheels used a large circlip and lock bolt.

any suggestions???

Kym in OZ
 
Kym,

Hard to say without pictures, but try adding a spacer to the axle between the wheel and read drive. I've got some 2.5mm spacers I used when running a set of radials on a LeMans if you want one. Also you could could also try the spacer for an EV 1100 part number 03 63 41 10. This fits into the read drive and is longer than the one in the earlier Guzzis.
 
Thanks for your thoughts John
I feel this will move the wheel off the centre line which I suppose could be compensated by moving the swing arm across but this then puts the uni joint out and thats generally considered a big NO NO:unsure: :unsure:

I assume the crown wheel shims can add or subtract from this in a small way as they locate the crown wheel carrier and hence the position of the bolt heads.

Does anyone know if the cush hub boss and the bearing boss should be flush with each other:unsure:

Kym
 
Kym,

You are only moving a couple on mm. Not a big deal. Look at a BMW some day, they have a deliberate offset. Besides, the cardan joint can take the offset, early joints failed because they were too inline and didn't flex enough, later models introduced a vertical offset to keep them going.

The purpose of the crown wheel shims is to set the ring and pinion engagement. If this is correct, don't mess with the shims as you will take out the rear drive.
 
Thanks John I've just rebuilt the Bevel box (new crown & pinion) and was suggesting that the shimming may have contributed to the crown wheel carrier plate being proud of its original location due to more shim being used to set the crown position. Cant remember if it was more or less than before
I've decided to eliminate the washers behind the bolts holding down the carrier plate so will test out that this arvo

This and a small amount of electrics work are all that seperates us from a start up I hope. This bike is what I used as our honeymoon machine 25 years ago so I'm looking forward to getting it going.

Cheers Kym in OZ
 
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