• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Dead Right Cylinder

Tweasl

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 21, 2008
Messages
7
Ok all,

First post in a long time but I really need a few ideas. Maybe I already know the answer, but I know the knowledge base here is huge and other opinions are always welcome in my crazy world.

M y 1987 Lemans IV has an intermittent and dead right side cylinder from time to time. I broke the bike out the other day to go for a ride and as soon as I twisted the throttle after my driveway....no power. I just went through the bike as far as a good carb clean, new plugs, checked timing, adjusted valves, synced carbs, etc.... I normally do this once a year after the bike has set for a while through winter.

My bike has a Dyna ignition and coils as well as some good Scott wires. Under load it seems to drop the cylinder, but while I'm tuning and adjusting everything in the shop it revs freely and nicely on both jugs. My battery was a bit weak, but it still started the bike through a 1.2 KW starter. Currently, I'm putting a full charge on the battery, but I dont feel this will cure anything.

ANY IDEAS???

Thanks Larry
 
First step is to switch leads on the coils and spark plug wires (change so the right coil now fires the left cylinder) and see if the symptom changes to the right side. If it does, it is an ignition problem (most likely) and if it doesn't fuel/carb. Let us know what happens.
 
Yes, that was my next step on switching the coils... I'll let you all know what happened.

I have the green Dyna coils. Are there issues with those as well?

Thanks
Larry
 
Ok all,

Solved my own post. I'm thinking weaK battery, with choke condition at startup fouled the plug. I pulled the plug and cleaned it thoroughly, charged the battery and she fired up on both sides nicely. My battery is a Hawker-Odysee Dry cell that is 8 years old. I'll ride the bike and see how the old battery holds up before replacing it. My last dry cell was an Optima that I used in my truck for 10 years!!

Thanks to all for your insight, I'll try and post more often to this Site in the future....

Larry
 
Larry,

If the battery is suspect then just change it.

I know there are a lot of Odyssey/AGM zealots out there but they do have disadvantages. One is that they don't give much warning when they die. They'll work fine one day then can fry your rotor the next.

The old rotors in Guzzis usually last a long time but if they get too hot for whatever reason, including a failed battery with too much resistance, they can go open circuit.

If money is tight then buy a cheap lawn mower battery from Walmart. A working lead acid is better than a dying AGM.

There will be howls of protest from the Odyssey faithful but so be it. :p Funny how the old lead acid gets blamed for everything. The fact the seat base was given a thin coat of paint, has sat under soggy foam for 30 years and gets a lot of flex due to changing loads hasn't absolutely nothing to do with the fact that it rusts. :roll:

If money isn't an issue then buy whatever floats your boat. :cool:
 
I agree,

Yes these batteries die without notice, but I was not aware that they would give you charging problems from a dead rotor after this. I will keep a close eye on this, I checked the input voltage to my battery and it was still over 13 volts at 2000 RPM so I figured the charging system was still ok.

Thanks

Larry
 
Back
Top