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Disapointment........melting headlamp

Bucky

Bucky

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
41
Location
Windsor Vermont
Ok im like the rest of the Norge owners with the melting headlamp tried to get it repaired under warrenty but guess what again MG will not stand behind their product!!!!! I am not a rich person which i am beggining to believe you need to be to own a Guzzi to bad i love the looks of the bike and love to ride it but can not afford to keep replacing 700 dollar headlamps and 600 dollar front rotors that pulsate so bad i dont like to use them. Hate to say it say this will be my first and last Guzzi! Unless something changes for the better with their costomer service.
 
Could you elaborate a little.
Has the headlight completely melted so that it is now unusable, or is there a bit of blistering on the black plastic under the projection lens?
 
Brian UK wrote:
Could you elaborate a little.
Has the headlight completely melted so that it is now unusable, or is there a bit of blistering on the black plastic under the projection lens?
Click to expand...

Which happens to them all and is only noticed by the owner and who he tells about it generally. Is this the second set of rotors your on ? Have you tried any of the known steps that might cure your problem ? Using them more often and hard might help prevent the problem.
 
My Norge has the same headlight problem. I do not think t he plastic melts, it looks more like a black coating that bubbles up. Has not gotten any worse nor do I believe that if MG replaced the headlight that it would not happen again. My rotors pulse too, have since 5000 miles were on the bike, now have 22,000 miles on it. I plan on replacing them with some new ones this winter. Not sure what brand to go with. If anyone has any input on this I would appreciate it. As far as the headlight goes, dodo happens.
 
the black plastic is bubbling and has some white pits not sure what that is, as far as the rotors yes it is second set and i have tried all them remidies listed here except ponding on the bobbins the brakes to me is a serious saftey issue and should be fixed under warrenty, the headlamp is purely cosmetic, and is obviously a flaw in workmanship, but again this is not a cheap 2000 dollar motorcycle it is suppose to be a qaulity machine just very frustrating that Guzzi could careless about the people who own there products.
 
The rotors are most likely ok. I can advise you to get a bottle of disc cleaner and some 3M scrubber (or stainless steel). Clean the discs throughly, and when you think they are clean, clean them again, wipe with a clean cloth and go for a test ride.

In my case (and I suspect some others) the problem are not the rotors per se, but the composition of the braking pads. If you clean the discs and they stay vibration free, change the pads for EBC HH or similar ones.
 
Anybody had any luck with the melting headlight reflector issue? As in, an actual permanent fix? Was pretty ticked to find mine melting after only 1000mi. or so. After taking a closer look, I wondered if perhaps the gap around the perimeter of the low beam lamp is too small to allow any cooling air? The gap around the hi beam lamps is much larger on my machine. Haven't taken apart the back side of the fairing to see if this dimension may be adjustable. Figured I'd take a survey of those aflicted before contacting my dealer. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks, Chuck
 
I've had my headlight on the Norge replaced under warranty because the low beam lenses began cracking and chipping. The black plastic was also bubbling under the low beams as well. The replacement headlight assembly has also had the bubbling plastic thing occur in less the 1000 miles. On the new 2010 Norge they address this problem by finishing the entire interior of the assembly all in plastic chrome, where as only the high beams have the chrome finish on our version of the Norge. It is possible to disassemble the headlight. After which you could then place something that wont melt over the melted plastic to hide the defect and prevent anymore melting.
 
Upgrade the headlight's low beam to HID, there's more light and less heat. Very worth while.
 
iainw said:
Upgrade the headlight's low beam to HID, there's more light and less heat. Very worth while.
Click to expand...
I don't know much on automotive lighting, but is a conversion kit needed?
 
frank73x89 said:
iainw said:
Upgrade the headlight's low beam to HID, there's more light and less heat. Very worth while.
Click to expand...
I don't know much on automotive lighting, but is a conversion kit needed?
Click to expand...

Yes, a conversion kit is needed, ebay is full of them.

I have a Breva 1100 and opted to just upgrade the low beam H7 bulb. This is because they take 3-4 seconds to warm up and I decided that this wasn't what I wanted for full beam. I don't often use full beam but flash the headlight quite often, the warm up time of a HID doesn't go well with this.

I bought a car kit H7 pair, so I now have a spare. HID50 means 50 watts, brighter than HID35, the colour is 6000k, that's the brightest white, and I opted for a slim ballast due to space limits. Any references to canbus in adverts means that some systems can detect a blown bulb, if a HID35 is used the system knows that the expected full power of a 55W bulb is not being drawn so a bulb warning is displayed, use HID50.

The upgrade is dead easy, it's just a plug in job apart from cutting a 25mm hole in the back of the plastic cover on the back of the headlamp shell. I did this with a cone cutter until I had the exact diameter I needed. You need to remove the fuel tank and drop the headlamp to access the internals.

Remove the old bulb and where this plugs in, connect the two wires, they then go out through the hole you have cut in the plastic access panel. The wires that go out and in from the headlamp are pre installed in a gromet to fit this hole. These go to a small box of electrical magic which then goes to the balast. I fastened the balast to the frame under the front of the tank with a couple of cable ties. The wires then go back through the hole in the panel to the HID bulb. If it doesn't light up when you switch on the wires which were connected at the begining are the wrong way round, there must be a diode in there.

The 5W pilot light will now look comaparably yellow an dim, so I swapped this out for a 1.5W LED.

Shout if you want some pics.
 
Great. Thanks, I'd love pictures and a source for the kit if you don't mind. Again, a thousand tks!
 
That*s perfect Iain. I know what to look for here in Canada> Pics are great too.

1000 TKS!
 
Ian
Saw your post on 1200sport.com. Does this mean you still have a spare set of everything required from the car set you bought? If so what is the price? - I am in the UK in Wiltshire, so shipping should be easy

Adam
 
Last weekend I fitted the same unit as Iain - yesterday was test day. It was absolutely fantastic. Main beam will be done next :D

Adam
 
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