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Doing your own post-run-in service on new Guzzi?

M

MrMorrisSD

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
85
Location
San Diego, CA
I'm curious about a couple of things regarding the 07' Griso 1100---"new", with zero miles---I bought last October:

1. Does it void the warranty (or cause any other contractual problem) if an owner services the bike himself during the warranty period? Specifically I'm talking about the 1st, "end of run-in" service that's supposed to occur at about 900 miles.

2. According to the owners manual, for this EORI service, other than changing all the bike's fluids I believe there is the adjusting of the valves, the tightening of the head bolts, and tightening of the "head stud bolts" (whatever those are). Are these adjustments and tightenings pretty straightforward to do, given that I'm someone who's wrenched on a lot of vehicles over the years?

Or is this work best left to the dealer shop?
 
There should be no warranty issues with performing your own services.

I don't believe that head bolt retorquing is necessary on the newer engines, any CARC Guzzi would be considered newer.

I just changed all fluids and adjusted the valves. Eventually I got around to sychronizing the thottle bodies and resetting the TPS as well.
 
Bisbonian is correct that you do not retorque the heads. However, if you do not have the equipment to synchronize the throttle bodies and do the electronic reset of the TPS, either acquire what is needed, or take it to someone that can do the job. Most important is to not touch the throttle stop adjustment screw. See the VDSTS thread https://www.guzzitech.com/forum/160/1676.html
 
Ah thanks. That kit might be helpful further on down the road. In the mean time I don't think the post-run-in service will require any real tuning or diagnostics then (other than to switch off the service icon); just fluid changes and valve adjustment.

I'm sure there are shop manuals available, but is the valve adjustment procedure for the Griso documented online anywhere?
 
Thanks. Sounds like something worth checking at some point soon. FWIW though, I think my Griso is running really nice. I'm new to Moto Guzzis, but not new to engines in general, and this engine feels fine to me --- it has none of the quirks that some of the early Griso seem to have been known for. No flat or rough spots in the RPM range, no exhaust popping or anything like that. (I don't know if the dealer updated to the latest Map or what.)
 
Awesome. Thank you for the link Bisbonian! I did look here on the site, but only under the Tech tab above. Didn't think to look under Downloads for some reason.

So I see in section 2-24 how the valve adjustment is done. Seems just like the process of adjusting an old VW engine... or hitting closer to my own personal experience, the valve adjustment on my old push-rod Subaru 1600cc engine.

And though it shows the bike with the tank removed, it sounds like only the side skirts need to be off the bike in order to do the job. Is this correct?

And... one thing odd about the instruction. It stops at the adjustment process. Doesn't say how you should reseal the cover when it's reinstalled. I don't see a gasket or o-ring on the head in the pics. How would I ensure that the cover doesn't leak?
 
MrMorrisSD said:
And... one thing odd about the instruction. It stops at the adjustment process. Doesn't say how you should reseal the cover when it's reinstalled. I don't see a gasket or o-ring on the head in the pics. How would I ensure that the cover doesn't leak?
Click to expand...


Go back to the download section and get the parts manual. However, if it is a 2 valve bike, the older style gaskets work well http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=421
 
MrMorrisSD said:
Thanks John. That should work out well since I already have an order in process with MG-Cycle anyway. I'll just add the gaskets to the existing.

BTW, the number called out in the parts list and on MG-Cycle is different from the one you referenced (In case anyone else is curious). The correct gasket is this #976139:

http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php ... ts_id=1523
Click to expand...

That gasket has snot on it that you don't need. It also tends to prevent re-use. Believe it or not, those of us that have been around, actually know what we are doing. Using the older style gasket works just fine.
 
john zibell said:
That gasket has snot on it that you don't need. It also tends to prevent re-use. Believe it or not, those of us that have been around, actually know what we are doing. Using the older style gasket works just fine.
Click to expand...
Achh, thanks for explaining it John. Sorry. I should have phrased all that as a question regarding the gasket types, but I was in a rush. Yes, I'm much newer at this than you guys and appreciate the advice. Odd that MG-Cycle is explicit about not using the one you suggested on a Griso engine. Maybe they just follow the company line strictly.

I have no problem working with gaskets that are reusable. :)
 
After reading through the shop manual I have a question about their terminology. For checking/replacing fluids etc. it says to make sure the bike is "upright with the wheels on the ground". How strict is this 'upright'? Do they just mean not laying the bike on its side (which would be dumb) or that the bike should be more or less 90-deg upright. I.e., zero lean for these procedures. If it means the latter, and the tires still need to be touching the ground, then we can't even use the shop stand... which elevates the rear tire.

I can't imagine the slight lean of the bike on its own kickstand would make much difference, but I figure a clarification from you guys would be helpful.
 
It needs to be vertical, not on the side stand. If you don't have someone to hold the bike up, you will need a service stand. Rear wheel slightly elevated is OK. Don't take things too literally in the Guzzi manuals. If you haven't figured it out by now, the Guzzi owners and service manuals leave a great deal to be desired.
 
Thank you again John. I can rig something up, in case I my GF's legs prove to be too short to keep the bike upright. ;)

And yeah, I've noticed a few odd things in the literature. I'm a technical writer by trade, so I'm often asking myself, "How could that have been better said?"

Regards.
 
Note also NOT to fill the oil to the 'Full' mark on the dipstick. half way between 'Add' and 'Full' is fine and let it find its own level. Don't add any more until it drops to the 'Add' mark when checked. The reason for this is that if the level is continuously 'Topped Up' to the full mark the engine will simply expell it through the breather system into the airbox. There is a drain that should be emptied at each service but a fair bit of the excess will be drawn into the engine through the throttle bodies. Nt only will this lead to carbon build up on the back of the inlet valves but it will also risk detonation problems engendered by a contaminated charge but most importantly it will gum up the throttle body butterflies and can cause stepper motor issues.

Guzzi state that the TB's should be removed every 10,000KM for 'Cleaning'. This is only likely to be an issue if the butterflies are so clagged up with oil and crud they can't shut properly! (leading to a high and/or erratic idle!). My 8V has done 55,000Km now and the TB's have never needed attention and the drain tube from the airbox remains obstinately free of oil. I keep my oil at the point where the engine stops using it which is about a third of the way between the 'Add' and 'Full' marks. My machine doesn't over tax it's oil due to a slightly reduced capacity and remains stone axe reliable.

Pete
 
Thanks again Pete. Great info.

So... you can actually read the factory dipstick?? I can't read that plastic thing to save my life. Recently I ordered the aftermarket all-metal one from MG-Cycle, hoping I'll have better luck with it. Haven't received it yet though so I don't know how well it'll work. I figure it just has to be better.

What I did with my bike upon receiving it was give it a good run-in per Motoman's method and then changed the oil. This first oil change occurred at about 30 miles on the ODO. I then changed the filter and added a total of about 3.5 qts (I'd need to double-check this though.) At that point the level on the dipstick was looking 'right' from what I could tell. So I've just been riding it this way for the last 1150 miles or so. But now I need to change all the fluids and make sure I do everything correctly.

And how can I check to see if my bike's been spewing oil? just pull out the air filter element and look inside?
 
MrMorrisSD said:
And how can I check to see if my bike's been spewing oil? just pull out the air filter element and look inside?
Click to expand...

Pull the plug on the air box drain tube. If a bunch of oil comes out then it is spewing. If none of very little, you are OK.
 
I changed the oil, but not the filter, on my '06 Breva the other day and decided to check how much oil went in as measured by the screwed-in dipstick (because I always check it cold before riding). (I know that the full quota of 3.6L takes it 3/8ths of an inch above the full mark.)

Pouring in 2L took it to the bottom mark, and 2.8L took it to the top mark, where I stopped. So I'm guessing that halfway between the marks is about 2.5L plus whatever is in the filter, say another 0.3L, for a total of 2.8L.

Interestingly, I let it drain overnight and put a block of wood under the front wheel to tip it back a touch. This elicited quite a bit more oil from the air box tube which I'd already drained. So the slight nose-down attitude on the centre stand doesn't ensure a complete drain of the airbox.
 
john zibell said:
MrMorrisSD said:
And how can I check to see if my bike's been spewing oil? just pull out the air filter element and look inside?
Click to expand...

Pull the plug on the air box drain tube. If a bunch of oil comes out then it is spewing. If none of very little, you are OK.
Click to expand...
The manual isn't very specific on this tube, picture wise. So I looked around on my Griso. Seems like the drain tube has to be the clear PVC tube that comes off the bottom of (what I assume is) the airbox and extends downward to the bottom of the bike's mechanicals, more or less just inboard of the rear brake lever's pivot point. And this clear hose has some sort of black plastic cap at the bottom. Would this be the drain hose?

If it is, it looks pretty clean inside. Not wet with oil anyway.

Thanks again.
 
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