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Easy Rear Wheel Removal

Trout

Trout

GT Reference
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
1,210
Location
Gainesville
Noticed on other forums that a few people complained about changing the rear tire on the 1400's. Needless to say when it came time for me to do it I was not looking forward to the job.

Actually it is quite simple & one of the easiest bikes I have ever done!!! I'm posting a readers digest quick version so if something is not clear post & I'll try to do a better job of explaining it.
1400 Custom Easy rear wheel removal

Gotta have a wood floor!

Buy 4) cargo D-Rings or lag type eye bolts.
Buy 4) Tie downs
Cut a 2x6 to use as a front wheel chock.

Screw the d-rings to the floor leaving about 3 to 4 inches on either side of the tire.

I lined two up with the axle then placed two more about 8” to 10” back.

Ran the cargo straps around the handle bars on the right side first, hooked one to the front d ring & one to the back d ring and tightened it just a bit. I did not use the hooks on the handle bars, I just ran the cloth part of the strap over the bars.

Chocked the front wheel.

Did the same on the other side, then alternated tightening them till the bike stood on it's own just like if you tied it to a trailer. Don't need to fully compress the front forks.

Put the bike jack under the engine. Can use a floor jack with a board. Put just enough lift on the jack to help stabilize the bike.

Remove the two screws that hold on the tag bracket assembly & there is a wire connector to unplug. Remove assembly.

Loosen exhaust clamps by the flex joints.

On each muffler are two bolts in front of the passenger foot rests that hold the converters, mufflers & chrome to the frame. Take them off & pull both assemblies.

Remove left side shock, leave the gas canister attached just tie the shock to the passenger foot rest.

Take axle nut off then jack up the bike a wee bit to take the load off & pull axle out.

There is a spacer on the nut side pull it out.

Pop the brake lines out of their clips on the swing arm. Caliper assembly will pull back then can go forward of the wheel.

Raise bike just enough to put daylight under the rear wheel.

Pull wheel off & roll out.

Total time about 25 minutes.

Easiest bike I have ever done.
 
You said;
Screw the d-rings to the floor leaving about 3 to 4 inches on either side of the tire.
Front tyre right?
Also, wouldn't the 'D' rings be better placed further to the side, for better triangulation?

I lined two up with the axle then placed two more about 8” to 10” back.
Towards the rear right? Why?

Great idea, sound principle, any variation will work.
 
Man am I happy to have a center stand on my bikes and ones with more accessible wheels..... :mrgreen:

Just took both wheels off the Stelvio to get new tires installed.

Process:

1. Put on Center Stand
2. Remove rear caliper
3. Remove bolts from rear tire and roll off bike.
4. Put block under skid plate. Shim with 2x4 and 1x2.
5. Remove front calipers
6. Remove front axle and roll front tire off.

Whole process from wheels up to wheels in my car was 10 minutes....actually would have taken less time but I had a beer in between......... :laugh:
 
Hardest wheel I have ever changed. First I removed the saddlebags and loosened the muffler clamps and removed the mounting bolts. Then got the bike in the air on a bike lift, both tires off the ground. Rotating the mufflers out of the way really did not require loosening the clamps as no matter how hard I tried they would not rotate on the pipe but fortunately the flex connectors allowed me to swing them out of the way and I held them in position with bungee cords. Then I pulled the axle and removed the caliper and collar. I then slid the tires sideways to remove it on to see not enough clearance so I removed the left shock and moved the caliper clear out of the way. At this point the tire slid down and lodged itself between the drive logs for the wheel and the rim scarring my rim which by the time I got it back up and in looks like it is off a rallye car. I have never scratched up a rim so bad changing tires. While yelling expletives at the bike I tried again. Then I looked again at the manual and saw the drive lugs I was seeing were supposed to come off with the wheel. NO WAY. I had to get a pry bar out and beat on the drive assembly with a hammer to get it to move. Seems Guzzi saved some money and did not put any grease on my splines. By the time I finally got it out all I got on my hands touching the splines was the Kroil I applied and rust, I am now changing the final drive oil and GREASING the splines with some Moly 60 grease then I will reassemble with my new Metzler.
 
At least you have a center stand on your Touring, so next time you need to remove a rear wheel whilst out on the road, it'll be a breeze. Just ask John Zibell for some advise. :eek:
 
If there is a centerstand on my touring it is well hidden. No I borrowed a friend's Sears ATV/motorcycle jack. Of course I had to shim it to be level. Then I had to run tiedowns to the garage ceiling to bring the rear up as it still wanted to tilt down but not very hard.
It should be against the law to sell a bike without a centerstand. I can take it off if it bothers me. Yes, I did on my Norge till Todd fixed me up with better suspension coupled with me bending mounts so it went up higher.

Easiest tire to change? The rear on my 1998 Honda PC800. You would think with all that plastic it would be tough but Honda actually took the time to think it out.
 
Last edited:
Easiest tires for me to change are on my BMW R1200c. I can do both tires in less than 2 hours and thats with removing the old tires from the rims, installing the new, balancing and remounting.
 
Trout said:
Noticed on other forums that a few people complained about changing the rear tire on the 1400's. Needless to say when it came time for me to do it I was not looking forward to the job.

Actually it is quite simple & one of the easiest bikes I have ever done!!! I'm posting a readers digest quick version so if something is not clear post & I'll try to do a better job of explaining it.
1400 Custom Easy rear wheel removal

Gotta have a wood floor!

Buy 4) cargo D-Rings or lag type eye bolts.
Buy 4) Tie downs
Cut a 2x6 to use as a front wheel chock.

Screw the d-rings to the floor leaving about 3 to 4 inches on either side of the tire.

I lined two up with the axle then placed two more about 8” to 10” back.

Ran the cargo straps around the handle bars on the right side first, hooked one to the front d ring & one to the back d ring and tightened it just a bit. I did not use the hooks on the handle bars, I just ran the cloth part of the strap over the bars.

Chocked the front wheel.

Did the same on the other side, then alternated tightening them till the bike stood on it's own just like if you tied it to a trailer. Don't need to fully compress the front forks.

Put the bike jack under the engine. Can use a floor jack with a board. Put just enough lift on the jack to help stabilize the bike.

Remove the two screws that hold on the tag bracket assembly & there is a wire connector to unplug. Remove assembly.

Loosen exhaust clamps by the flex joints.

On each muffler are two bolts in front of the passenger foot rests that hold the converters, mufflers & chrome to the frame. Take them off & pull both assemblies.

Remove left side shock, leave the gas canister attached just tie the shock to the passenger foot rest.

Take axle nut off then jack up the bike a wee bit to take the load off & pull axle out.

There is a spacer on the nut side pull it out.

Pop the brake lines out of their clips on the swing arm. Caliper assembly will pull back then can go forward of the wheel.

Raise bike just enough to put daylight under the rear wheel.

Pull wheel off & roll out.

Total time about 25 minutes.

Easiest bike I have ever done.
Click to expand...


Arghhh my Cush drive is separating when I try and pull the wheel off the splines I will give it some more persuasion tomorrow
 
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