• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

ECU Swap/PC-V Update --PLEASE READ--

okay todd, regarding the deposit, how small is small...

and maybe it'll be worth waiting for your GT can because then you'll have a map for it rather than getting into the autotune thingamabobber... (I really miss carbs)

if I wait a little to give you the deposit, maybe the amazing shrinking american dollar will make it cheaper for me?
 
A modded airbox lid below for testing. Simpler and cheaper. It will be offered as part of the kit. Uses OEM air filter (element). Similar version for the Griso.

Deposits will be in the $250-ish range.

More soon.
 
I fear I am loosing customers to a $3 resistor on this, but I hope those who said they'd buy in, still will. I will be at Dynojet on Friday having the prototype PC-V built. I'll post more early next week on my return.
 
Don't panic - we're all here!

And anyway - if anybody squelches on the deal I will personally come over and rip their bloody arms off... so there.
 
I want to be able to tune my Griso they way it should not what some
not what some eurocrat thinks it should.
Let me know what the USD price is and we shall go from there.
 
Two questions:

How complex is the Autotune option to manage?

Any news about those mufflers for the Sport12?

My guess is that I would only need a proper map for a Sport12 with slip-on (YOUR slip-on). Being it's all your hardware I don't think I'd go wrong and thus not need the Autotune... Will a new ECU be all that I need?

Food for thought whenever I get the answers... :D
 
I too have found my B11 over lean in closed loop and over rich in open loop. I ended up using a Bosch narrow band lambda and controlling the signal to the ECU to make closed loop alternate around AFR 13.7. Costs about
 
NPS

" I ended up using a Bosch narrow band lambda and controlling the signal to the ECU to make closed loop alternate around AFR 13.7."..

Interesting - how did you control the signal to adjust the AFR with this setup?

Art
 
I should have said wide band sensor and narrow band. Oops.

With the wideband replacing the std lanbda the unit has a control unit that is PC programmable. You can configure the switch point to provide to the ECU to be something other than 14.7AFR = 2.5 V (I think from memory). I shifted it to give 13.7AFR = 2.5 V.
Simple as that.
 
Zapa wrote:
How complex is the Autotune option to manage?
Any news about those mufflers for the Sport12?

My guess is that I would only need a proper map for a Sport12 with slip-on (YOUR slip-on). Being it's all your hardware I don't think I'd go wrong and thus not need the Autotune... Will a new ECU be all that I need?
Click to expand...
The PC-V will come pre-programmed for the AutoTune, by me, so the AT unit is plug and play when it arrives, unless you want to tinker with your AFR's. The AT software screen is shown in the main thread, and is a simple spread sheet with AFR's listed, and easily editable by any PC.

Your Sport mufflers are next on the to-do list. More soon.

If you re-read the main thread in the Tech section, I do not plan on making any revisions to the stock ECU outside of deleting the 02-sensor input completely, and revising the timing and temp/alt. compensation. You will need my ECU for full map access with the PC-V (& AutoTune), otherwise, the PC-V will only allow map access above 40% throttle.
 
I asked those questions before commiting myself to the full package, and knowing myself I know I will end in a dyno for fine tuning, so... I think I got it right :D
 
Zapa wrote:
I asked those questions before commiting myself to the full package, and knowing myself I know I will end in a dyno for fine tuning, so... I think I got it right :D
Click to expand...

If I understand the AutoTune concept correctly, it will automatically modify your A/F ratio based on conditions and changes in engine variables. Todd's initial map will be a baseline from which you can essentially optimize your performance based on the target A/F you set. In other words, you may not need to do a dyno run because your Autotune modified map should be optimal.
 
Well, I don't know the importance of a good base map or how close it has to be to the optimal state IF the AT module is in place.

If Todd says his map will be close enough for the AT to be plug&play, that's fine by me. When talking "active" hardware I usually like to be double covered by having a close as possible base, and I think it's probably a good idea to have it that way.
 
Thanks Nero, correct.
Zapa, the PC-V maps I will build using AT will be for U.S. bikes, U.S. fuels and U.S. tune. While they will run much better then stock, maps built for each bike/country/fuels will be far superior. What I would suggest is to build your own map using AutoTune, and save it to the PC-V. It's a simple keystroke away to "Accept Trims" from the AutoTune to the PC-V. Make sense?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top