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Engine revving to 3000rpm at idle

G

Griso Guy

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Feb 11, 2009
Messages
157
Location
PA for now
Does anyone have the issue of the Griso engine 2V revving up to 3000 rpm when it should be idling? I have seen a few prior to mine doing this.
When I removed the electrical connection to the stepper motor the idle came down to where it should be, but the red light came on and remained on until I re-connected to the stepper motor. My question, could this be the problem, stepper motor or could the TPS be the issue? I believe that if the S-M is disconnected it may not be communicating with the TPS, thus allowing the throttle butter fly's to close to their proper position.
Has anyone actually found the fix?

Thank you.

Doug
 
Yes, the stepper is probably the culprit. There is a post where the solution was to insert a smaller diameter tube into the stepper air source line to reduce airflow which seemed to correct the problem for the guy. I suggest you search the forum for "stepper motor" to find the post.
 
Mine would do this when I would restart the engine while it was still hot (or warm) - My problem was discovered to be a lean condition when hot that was fixed with a closed loop tune-up.
 
uncle wrote:
Mine would do this when I would restart the engine while it was still hot (or warm) - My problem was discovered to be a lean condition when hot that was fixed with a closed loop tune-up.
Click to expand...

Ok I'll bite what is a closed loop tune up ? Outside of reseting the TPS with an axoine or vdts and a throttle body balance ?
 
Griso Guy wrote:
Does anyone have the issue of the Griso engine 2V revving up to 3000 rpm when it should be idling? I have seen a few prior to mine doing this.
When I removed the electrical connection to the stepper motor the idle came down to where it should be, but the red light came on and remained on until I re-connected to the stepper motor. My question, could this be the problem, stepper motor or could the TPS be the issue? I believe that if the S-M is disconnected it may not be communicating with the TPS, thus allowing the throttle butter fly's to close to their proper position.
Has anyone actually found the fix?

Thank you.

Doug
Click to expand...

Doug; don't know where your from but does your bike have the worthless Evap canister on it ? Removel of has improved the problem for some, some have plugged the vacuum tubes going to the stepper motor, leaving it plugged so the ECU things everything is fine. Cold weather starting and idling until warm can be an an issue if you go that route.

My 2C
 
Mine used to do that. When the weather got cold i would get super high idles at random. Regardless of whether the engine was warm or not. I took it into the dealer and they told me it could have been a loose timing nut. Not believing them, i asked RacerX about it, and he suggested i remove the stepper motor. While there must be some better way of doing this, it worked well, with a few side effects.
 
draidt,
When the machine was new I removed the canister. The engine only really started doing this when I came back East from AZ.

Thanks for the reply.

Doug
 
Spaceclam,
It didn't really matter what temp the engine was, cold or hot it would do the same, idle high. I can believe that the stepper motor is the problem, I have already by-passed it but hadn't fired it up yet since it's cold here in PA and besides I have the battery on trickle charge out of the bike.
I wonder if the stepper motor messes with TPS?

Thanks for the response.

Doug
 
John,
Thanks for the response. I can believe that you are right about the stepper motor. I can't understand why they would even put one on. I guess for city riding it controls the rpm's better. So I was told.

Doug
 
I meant i would have that problem more when the weather got cold, but it didnt matter what my engine temp was.

just be aware that with the stepper motor off, you wont be able to start it, put your gear on, and go. you will have to get saddled up, spin it, and hold it open for the first 30 seconds or so of riding.
 
Remember back in the day with all big twins, they needed to get some heat in the chambers before you could ride. I am use to that so no big deal. My older Ducati is like that.
When you spoke of removing the S-M, did you physically remove it or just by pass the vacuum lines with a straight line from throttle body to throttle body? If you took it off the machine, how did you get the red triangle light to go off? Did you loop the electrical connection on the connector?

I knew what you were saying about the warm or cold weather, I should have added that into my message.

Thank you.

Doug
 
Griso Guy wrote:
Remember back in the day with all big twins, they needed to get some heat in the chambers before you could ride. I am use to that so no big deal. My older Ducati is like that.
When you spoke of removing the S-M, did you physically remove it or just by pass the vacuum lines with a straight line from throttle body to throttle body? If you took it off the machine, how did you get the red triangle light to go off? Did you loop the electrical connection on the connector?

I knew what you were saying about the warm or cold weather, I should have added that into my message.

Thank you.

Doug
Click to expand...

Throttle body to throttle body, plug all the vacuum lines and keep the stepper motor plugged in.
 
Will do just that. What I do have done at this moment is the blow by line going into a T with both throttle bodies connected to each end. This way they blow by goes back into the combustion chambers via throttle bodies, S-M is plugged in but no vacuum lines connected.
In case you are wondering why the T, I had removed the air box/battery tray I bought 2 K&N single filters adapted the air sensor onto the one top, built a battery box from carbon fiber and that works fantastic. Now this this really breath's all I need to do is add a new slip on muffler and I do believe it should run real well.
Thank you for your responses.

Doug
 
Griso Guy wrote:
Will do just that. What I do have done at this moment is the blow by line going into a T with both throttle bodies connected to each end. This way they blow by goes back into the combustion chambers via throttle bodies, S-M is plugged in but no vacuum lines connected.
In case you are wondering why the T, I had removed the air box/battery tray I bought 2 K&N single filters adapted the air sensor onto the one top, built a battery box from carbon fiber and that works fantastic. Now this this really breath's all I need to do is add a new slip on muffler and I do believe it should run real well.
Thank you for your responses.

Doug
Click to expand...

We must have pictures of your setup...
 
If you remove the stepper motor you should just plug theports in the throttle bodies where it used to hook to. No reason to connect both throttle bodies together,especially down stream of the butterfly. If you physically remove the stepper motor you will get the error light on the dash unless you figure out the resistence of the motor and replace it with a resistor I believe. If you just disconnect the stepper motor from the throttle bodies and leave the electrics hooked up you will get no error light. Either way, with out the stepper motor you will have no choke/fast idle for when the bike is cold. They are a common thing nowadays on cars and bikes, no reason why they should not work, but they do have a tendencies to slow the return of the motor back to idle when you close the throttle.
I put a valve on the central line from the airbox to the stepper motor so that I can have the stepper motor when the bike is cold and turn it off when the bike is warm. The best of both worlds to me.

Edit, The stepper motor has nothing to do with the TPS. It bleeds air into the intakes down stream of the throttle plate to let the throttle close almost completely and still be able to idle when cold. It is supposed to be a computer controlled air bypass to make the idle consistent. In practice it works but not perfectly.
 
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