• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Engine stand / jack

WayneOrwig

GT Reference
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
1,055
Location
Hog Mountain
Has anyone dropped the engine out of the frame on their Stelvio yet?
I have a leak from the rear main area. On the Tonti frames, I crab them and leave the front engine bolt on place and use a simple jack. That isn't going to happen here, so I need a way to support and lower the engine and transmission out of the frame. Or raise the frame. Either way, I need a good support under the engine.
Ideas? I'm thinking some type of wooden cradle on top of a jack.
 
Haven't done a Stelvio yet Wayne but Id think he process would be very similar to the Griso.

I used one of those bike jack thingies under the sump, Tied the front down while I pulled the arse end off, then disconneced all the wiring etc. before unbolting the motive unit from the frame. With the Griso I found it easiest to un-bolt the manifolds and leave them and the injectors and airbox etc, in the frame.

Final lifting of the frame off the motive unit was achieved in the time honoured fashion of persuading a couple of burly oafs to assist.

The leak is almost certainly the rear main bearing flange. I haven't seen this yet but the problem is caused by two things, make sure you address them both. Firstly a couple of the bolts used to secure the flange are too long so they can't clamp properly. Secondly there is a dowel with a relief around it in which an o-ring sits. This isn't machined deep enough so the o-ring cannot seal properly and gets damaged as the flange is tightened down. The cure is to remove the dowel and mill the groove a bit deeper. This was all covered in some training materials I recieved but I've been told by a factory representitive no less that this information isn't to be disseminated to the masses via the innerneck :roll: so you'd better check yer PM's.

Pete
 
It might be a good idea to check the condition of the main bearing itself. My bike had the over-long bolts but also this fault in the bearing... Not sure it added to the leak, but it sure needed replacing!!!
 

Attachments

  • Moto Guzzi_Stelvio repair (9)1.JPG
    Moto Guzzi_Stelvio repair (9)1.JPG
    98.7 KB · Views: 398
john zibell said:
Wayne,

I haven't done one yet, but I would suspend the frame from the ceiling somehow, (maybe big ratchet straps) and make a cradle for a jack like this one http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ockType=G4 to lower the engine and transmission unit.

That is what I an thinking, a wooden cradle and a jack with a large area. And of course the frame strapped to the ceiling.

Pete, I'm familiar with the long bolts (or is it short holes) and the oring groove.
I'm not 100% sure the oil is even coming from there. It runs down the sidestand, but doesn't appear to be coming from the drain slot. I have replaced both sump gaskets, and I'm pretty sure that isn't it. I'll need to get it on the lift and start stripping it soon.
Problem is that I don't know enough burly oafs.
 
Wayne Orwig said:
Problem is that I don't know enough burly oafs.

Call me when you need a hand. You are only a few hours away. I can oaf around with the best of them.
 
Back
Top