• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

EV 11 CAMSHAFT UPGRADE or LINEAR MOVE

Silverhorse347

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
39
I have a 1986 1000 SPII it runs a ton at 5200rpm and still gets about 48mpg. I just thinking ahead when it comes time to do a teardown, I have set of big valve heads and an EV11 cam sitting on the shelf , is it worth the time and expense to use this cam since I will have the motor down at some point. As far as I know the SPII is stock except for the 36 mm Dellortos.
 
Swapping to the big valve heads will achieve very little, in fact it will be counter productive unless you also replace the barrels and pistons with those from a big-valve engine. Even if you do this you'll still have a rather horrid compromise as the BV combustion chamber shape is horrible and the pistons used for this set-up weigh a ton.

The SPII is I believe a squarefin with smallvalve heads yes? Far better to try and lay your hands on a set of mid-valve heads off a Mk III LeMans, SPIII, Cali III. While you can use the stock SPII barrels and pistons you'll have a low compression motor and will achieve little by camming it up.

Best possible result would be to go for a 950 barrel and piston kit, (88mm bore.) designed for a Mk III LeMans, midvalve heads, 36mm PHF carbs and then add a slightly better cam, the Factory B10 grind is very good. Don't forget to swap the distributor advance springs and you'll have a very pleasant and slightly more rapid mile muncher.

Pete
 
I also have a set of heads and jugs/pistons from early 90'S Cal III. I also have a distributor from a LeMans IV OR V. What would be the best source in the US for a B10 cam, I think I can get the springs from MG Cycle or Mike Rich?
 
From memory the piston/mid valve head combination in the Cali III is slightly lower compression ratio than that of the Mk III LeMans big bore kits but given how crappy fuel is nowadays I'd suggest that going down a bit on CR is not a bad thing for a road bike. The simple fact is that while performance improvements can be made you're never going to build a monster Gixxer-beater out of a Guzzi so I always suggest opting for a slightly more conservative approach that will keep reliability and ease of maintenance. Mid valve heads will drive 40mm PHM carbs but a bit of port widening is required on the inlet side to avoid reversion problems in the inlet tract but 36,s work really sweet. Check whether the 36's are 'Conventional' or 'Lean Burn' before jetting 'em up. Mk IV/V dizzy will work fine.

There are quite a few placces that will do re-grinds on your core. I'm pretty sure Rick and Gordon at MG Cycle do an exchange. Don't forget to use new tappets with the re-ground cam otherwise it won't be in there for long.

Pete
 
Well my intent not build any kinda really fast bike, I think the Guz is fast enough for me anyways. I do not intend to sell it or get shed of any time soon, I know that riding it every day to work about fifty miles round trip it will need to be redone at some point. Hence I am gathering parts now as I get the fundages, since it will be down I fiqure I might as well upgrade, when the time comes and I have the money to get better parts I will pass along my knowledge and parts to the next gen of Guzzie-ista's. Yeah Rick and Gordan (GREAT GUYS TO DEAL WITH IF ANY HAS A CHANCE)do do an exchange on the cams and I would always use new lifters on a ''new'' camshaft. Oh the 36 mm Dell. are conventional.
 
Back
Top