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Fat Duc for the Griso 8V

guzziownr

guzziownr

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
88
Location
NYC, NY
I ordered the Fat Duc controller on Tuesday with paypal and received it USPS today.

I removed the seat to get the battery disconnected (I removed it completely!)

Took the vanity cover off the starter and removed the starter to expose the connector for the O2 Sensor.

P1290091.jpg


I put the controller in line and made sure it was accessible for later adjustment.

P1290093.jpg


Put it back together and went for a short ride.

The results were good: No popping from the exhaust, no lean surging and a smooth transition from closed loop to open loop. Previously the bike would stumble, surge and pop below 4K. Annoying, especially after riding my powercommander equipped V11 Sport which was always as smooth as glass.

Before I bought my bike I had the pleasure of riding Uncle's G11. I thought that his twin plug engine was the best Guzzi mill I had ever ridden. Perhaps the single plug combined with the XL inlet manifolds does not tolerate a lean mixture as well. My sea level riding environment probably doesn't help either.

I'm heading to the Marcus Dairy Guzzi breakfast Sunday so I will see what the bike is like on it's first extended ride.

DW
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but with Fat Duc Sensor Controller we can "fix" the closed loop mess & put a PC111 in for the open loop "fix"?
Don-M
 
Kid Thunder wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong but with Fat Duc Sensor Controller we can "fix" the closed loop mess & put a PC111 in for the open loop "fix"?
Click to expand...
Thanks for the post David... I'll be awaiting longer term results.

Don, the possibility exists to add a PCIII, but here in a few weeks, I should have my hands on a PC-V, along with my ECU swap program under separate thread here. This will be disabling the 02-sensor completely, and giving full map access to the PC-V. Timing revisions will be done on the ECU remap.

Dynojet warned/abandoned of "sensor offset" technology a decade ago. The FatDuc is just that.
 
Quite a few people here use a similar thingy made in Hungary, sold through Mandello Garage. Reports are all across the board, from what I've seen, esp. as far as the setting is concerned. I should add that most seem to look for popping reduction, essentially.
 
Very interesting. There is real potential there, in modifying the oxygen sensor's output to enrichen the overly lean settings required by emissions laws.

A dynometer test by a private party would settle the effectiveness argument.

Joe
 
I'll happily give it a go if someone will buy one of the wretched things for me. I'll pay of course but living at the arse end of the earth seems to present an unsolvable impediment to everyone in Europe and many people in the USA for some reason.

I have access to an AF Dyno and while I don't really have many problems in the transition area from closed to open loop I would like to see what if anything can be achieved.

It's mid winter here and it is really telling that I'm currently having NONE of the popping issues on the over-run that could be a problem, although only at certain temperatures and the change wasn't linear, during the hotter weather which gives me a further indication that one of the BIGGEST issues with the mapping is actually the engine temperature enrichment. This would also seem to be related to the unwillingness for the biek to idle from a cold start. It's pissy little things like this which will put people off the bike and it should be easily fixable by the factory, I mean they got the temperature mapping spot on for the 1100's! Grrrrr!!!!!

Anyway, if someone is willing to act as an intermediary for me I can PP them the money and I'll do a bit of experimentation.

Pete
 
Pete, always happy to help. Let me know.
 
pete roper wrote:
I'll happily give it a go if someone will buy one of the wretched things for me. I'll pay of course but living at the arse end of the earth seems to present an unsolvable impediment to everyone in Europe and many people in the USA for some reason.

I have access to an AF Dyno and while I don't really have many problems in the transition area from closed to open loop I would like to see what if anything can be achieved.

It's mid winter here and it is really telling that I'm currently having NONE of the popping issues on the over-run that could be a problem, although only at certain temperatures and the change wasn't linear, during the hotter weather which gives me a further indication that one of the BIGGEST issues with the mapping is actually the engine temperature enrichment. This would also seem to be related to the unwillingness for the biek to idle from a cold start. It's pissy little things like this which will put people off the bike and it should be easily fixable by the factory, I mean they got the temperature mapping spot on for the 1100's! Grrrrr!!!!!

Anyway, if someone is willing to act as an intermediary for me I can PP them the money and I'll do a bit of experimentation.

Pete
Click to expand...

Geez Pete it's only 86 bucks shipped to my door, my only impediment would be making sure it got to you. I have never shipped overseas, guide me and I'll pull the trigger on one.
 
If you ping me an email to

motomoda<at>optusnet.com.au

with the <at> replaced with an ampersand I'll have your email address and if you have a paypal account I can, (In a few days, I'll have to transfer a few bucks into mine as it is currently bare!) send you the dosh.

My postal address is.

Pete Roper
POB 102.
Bungendore. NSW 2621
Australia

But DON'T send it until you recieve the money. Or I can do a Western Union Money Transfer.

Pete
 
pete roper wrote:
If you ping me an email to

motomoda<at>optusnet.com.au

with the <at> replaced with an ampersand I'll have your email address and if you have a paypal account I can, (In a few days, I'll have to transfer a few bucks into mine as it is currently bare!) send you the dosh.

My postal address is.

Pete Roper
POB 102.
Bungendore. NSW 2621
Australia

But DON'T send it until you recieve the money. Or I can do a Western Union Money Transfer.

Pete
Click to expand...

It's done ! should have in a few days.

E-mail being sent.
 
After reading DW's post I sent off for a Fat Duc for my '08 1200 Sport. 80-bucks, plus 7 for shipping, and three days later it arrived. It took all of about 10-minutes to install. I started with a setting half way between full rich and full lean. As soon as I pulled out of the drive I noticed a difference. The bike was more responsive at small throttle opening and low rpm's. There was a slight bit of surging below 1,800 rpm's - as you would experience going 5-10 mph with the clutch fully engaged. Above 1,800 rpm the motor was very smooth. I tried various setting but ended with the 3.5 setting on the little white screw. The one disappointing aspect is that the back-firing (popping) remains. It isn't bad but it's noticable.

I had the latest map (second version) installed and though it helped the low speed running slightly the back-firing was worse. With the original map there was almost no popping through the exhaust.
 
I have to admit something, and i feel really really stupid.


...I did not see the part in the heading that says "8v" until just now.

so yeah, we can pretty much disregard everything i just said.

Sorry, Duc.
 
Here is my follow up with 450 miles on:

I experimented with different settings on the Fat Duc. Putting it at full rich basically turns off the sensor and that lit up the service light almost instantly. I dialed back from that setting until the service light came on and reset a few times during a back road ride.

The bike seemed to adjust itself and I stopped getting the light so that became my final setting. I did 100 miles of 70-80 highway miles and did not see the light once.

Today's ride was a commuter hop 25 miles each way to visit family in the suburbs. The ride had a bit of everything and I was very pleased with the "carburation". Good torque, good power and no hesitation or popping.

The only surging could be found on steady throttle at 3500 rpm. I still have a few hundred miles to the first service so we will see if a careful synch and TPS reset will help there as well.

DW
 
My G11 runs great, it pops and farts, but runs great and is just hitting its stride when the ecu cuts the ignition against the rev limiter. I just want a bit more torque and bhp at 4-5K rpm for wheelies, other than that, sucker runs like the dogs danglies.... I'm 54 and like to do f'ing wheelies, my lemans did em, ropers scura does em, all my jap bikes did em, I want my griso to do em as well......
 
can you tell what your final setting was according to mark on the fat duc? for innstance
3.5 3.2 etc or best guess
 
Hiya Duc, anything less than 13.5 set off the light. It is a little left of there now but 13.5 worked fine.

DW
 
DW,g11 seems to like same setting around 13.5 a hair above or below.Just something to think on,I was told that once signal closed loop has been stabilized as with fat duc or resistor in line the whole system can be tuned using the pc111.Has not been tried on guzzi but works on some ducatis.
 
Perhaps a trip to the Ducati Sport Classic tech page is called for.

I will investigate and report...

DW
 
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