• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Front brake knocking...

S

Sbrog

Just got it firing!
Joined
Oct 7, 2012
Messages
6
Location
Portland, OR
I have a 73 disk brake sport that has developed a knocking/tapping sound, apparently in the brake pads.
The noise is metallic like something is moving around and occurs in a double tap. Seems to occur more than once per revolution of the wheel. When the front wheel is up in the air, I can rotate it and I don’t get any noise and there does not appear to be any warping in the disks. The pads feel solid and do not appear to move. The bearings are fine and there are no apparent noises or vibrations in the wheel. When riding I get it after a while and feel it in the bars and hand controls. When it is not knocking, I can use the front brakes and that brings on the sound. Even when I am hard on the brakes it does not let up. So I figured it might just be the pads moving around so why not replace them. So I replaced the pads (they were down 30% or so), springs and pins and took it out. Not much of a change. The sound keeps coming back. I have never had disk pads do this, but I guess that if there is some play between the sides of the pads and the caliper it might be causing this.

Any thoughts on a cure? Is there some sort of spray on adhesive that could help keep the pads and pistons working together so they do not move around?

Thanks!
 
Usually when the pads move on the pistons you get brake squeal, not a vibration. There are adhesives to eliminate sound, ( http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... _Quiet.htm ) but not the vibration you are getting. Possibilities for the vibration could be the pads, the rotor carrier, or loose caliper, but once hard braking is established, you should have a solid lockup and the vibration would stop. I'd suggest taking a good look at the steering head bearings. Another possibility might be wheel bearings, but those are less of a suspect.
 
One other item you might look at is the caliper spacers. Make sure the spacers are the same at both top and bottom bolts.
 
Thanks for the ideas from all...

I think I will start with replacing the bearings up front, that is the simplest to start with (and matched exactly contractor 20 experience) and see how it goes. Till now, bearing have gone bad with grinding noises so I had discounted a bearing option.

Steve
 
Contractor20 earns the gold star, it was the wheel bearings.

Old ones were Chinese, new ones are SKF.

Steve
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top