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front wheel installation

G

guzziks

Just got it firing!
Joined
May 22, 2009
Messages
9
What is the proper procedure for installing the front axle. The workshop manual says to install the axle, then tighten the pinch bolts next to the axle nut, then torque the axle nut, then tighten the opposite side pinch bolts.

Seems incorrect, on other bikes I've had you install axle then torque the nut to draw the axle tight against the wheel assembly, then pump the forks to align the fork lowers, the fork "floats" on the side opposite the nut. Then you tighten the pinch bolts.

Could the book be incorrect or is the just another Guzzi thing?
 
This may shed some light for you. It's from an old posting of mine.

Front wheel removal and re-fitting
• Not recommended at the roadside.
• Place a reminder – I use a tennis ball - between the front brake lever and twistgrip and then remove the brake calipers. Gently levering the pads apart a little will make re-fitting easier.
• Remove the axle nut.
• Slacken the fork leg pinch screws below the axle.
• Push the axle towards the left side of the bike and then withdraw it.
• Remove the wheel taking care not to lose the spacer on the right side of the hub.
• Re-fitting is pretty much a reversal. The only thing I found tricky was getting the thicker end of the axle to enter the left fork leg eye, until I gave the eye some lead-in using a bearing scraper. Greasing the axle is a good idea too. Tighten the axle nut as much as possible, using a screwdriver through the left end holes to prevent turning, then nip-tighten one of the right side pinch screws and complete tightening the axle nut. Tighten the right side pinch screws but leave the left side ones loose at this stage.
• Re-fit the brake calipers and apply the brakes several times to ensure the pads are properly adjusted.
• Apply the brakes and depress the forks a few times before tightening the left side pinch screws below the axle. This is to allow the fork legs to self-align on the axle.
• Tightening the pinch screws is best done in alternating small bites until each pair feels equally tight. They are only M6 into alloy so don't overtighten them! I prefer to go by feel for small screws like these rather than use a torque wrench. Herecy of course!
 
Thanks, makes perfect sense. The guzzi manual is sadly lacking, the more I reviewed it the more disapointing it is. It doesn't even refer to the charcoal cannister or the stepper bleed valve.
 
Graham, all,

I install the brake calipers last. Since the wheel is already solidly mounted, the calipers when applied can move the fork leg. Better to just leave them off until axle and and pinch bolts are tight.

I believe the procedure you describe is a hold over from drum brake systems. The procedure of leaving the pinch bolts loose, holding the front brake and pumping the forks would help since the brake mechanism isn't attached to the fork except at one point, and even that point isn't fixed.
 
Thanks John

Point taken aboard. :)

Maybe all would be well if the forks were "jounced" with the front wheel against a stop - like a wall or the workbench - before the brake is pumped to reset the pistons and pads.
 
Got er done. Thanks for the advice, I also asked a couple mechanics, and Graham's procedure modified for brake reinstall after pumping forks is the way, except you can torque the axles nut fully by holding the opposite end with a screwdiriver as Graham says.
 
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