• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Gas Tank Removal of V7 Stone

Grvforce

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 1, 2014
Messages
26
Location
Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
how to take the gas tank out of my 2012 V7 Stonw??? I've seen a screw when i remove the seat, but i don't want to start taking it a figer out what to do along the way, want to take tips from u guys for fast n easy removal. like is there a any fuel lines, or wiring ....
thanks
 
Just the one bolt on the rear of the tank, and two rubber bumpers in the front, so slide the tank back and up as you pull rearward. There's a electrical connector/plug for the fuel pump, a quick release on the fuel line, and a fuel cap rubber drain tube. The V7 has two fuel line disconnects actually, one at the pump (quite tough until you do a few), and a much simple push to release fitting near the frame. It'll make sense when you pull the tank back, or you can see this in the parts PDF under resources above.
 
I took the tank off my '13 V7 Stone last Saturday so that I could do some fuel delivery troubleshooting and, while I was at it, replace the ill-reputed half-plastic fuel filter with a solid metal one (Mahle KL145). The only tricky part about removing the tank is the quick-coupler at the front end of the fuel line. It turned out to be much easier than I feared, especially because someone here or at Wildgoose Chase described the coupling as being similar to an air compressor quick-coupler. Slipped right apart. On my bike, the hoses for the tank vent (near the front of the tank) and the filler overflow/water trough drain (near the rear of the tank) didn't have hose clamps, despite what the parts blow-up shows, and they slipped off without any trouble. Some folks have reported that getting the tank back on is difficult, but mine slid right on. The rubber pucks that engage depressions at the front bottom of the tank should be checked to see that they're well lubricated (making the tank slide on easily) and that the bolts that attach them are secure (there is a report of them being or becoming unscrewed and damaging the tank). Also, it helps if the tank is nearly empty, as mine was. A full tank holds a calculated 33 lb of gas. When putting the tank on, be careful that the various hoses don't get pinched between the tank and the top frame tube. Good wrenching!
 
Back
Top