• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Gear Box / Transmission Oil

DanPez

DanPez

Cruisin' Guzzisti
Joined
Jun 27, 2010
Messages
488
Location
Hudson, Quebec
Changing oil on my LM3 the manual specifies Agip F.1 Rotra MP SAE90.
Finding this type of oil is not that easy.

The LM3 manual states that the same oil can be used in the Gear box as well as the Transmission.
In the transmission the manual suggests an additive to be added to the Rotra ..... (Rocol ASO/R additive).
Rocol is an additive used to reinforce non-EP oils.

Looking at the ratings I found GEAR MG/S 85W90 which I already I use in the Stelvio.
The MG/S has an GL5 rating same visc with Rocol additive already mixed in.

Could this oil be used in the transmission?
and
Would it be suitable for the Gear box also? (Having the Rocol additive already mixed in)

Thanks
 
I'd not usea fully synthetic oil in the gearbox simply because having run with a mineral oil for a long time and the seals being old chances are it will leak.

Any decent quality 80/90 hypoid gear oil is fine for both and most modern oils probably don't require an additive but since its easy most of us ownrs of older bikes use one. All it is is a molybdemum disulphide additive, many places in the USA sell a product called 'Power Punch', I simply use some Penrite bearing and camshaft assembley lube.

Pete
 
I found Castrol Hypoy C Gear oil with the same specs GL5 80W-90 and EP additive .... which is easily available here.
Thanks Pete!
 
Aloha,
I've ran many different Tranny oils over the years in my Uzzi's, from omg replacemnts, to Synthitic, ect.

The one I've come to love & trust, all the while enjoying my shifts more and more.
And is now the Must in all my Guzzi's, that goes for your rear Bevel Drive as well.

Good old Red-Line (the Heavy Wt), its thick as glue getting it in there the first time, especially if the room temp
is below 65 degrees, but once its in there, its all heaven. Your bike will shift smoother, sound quiter over all,
and way less "Clunks" into gear on shifts.

The key is to pre measure out how much you need for your tranny ahead of time in a container, then just poor in.
The rear Bev is much easier, cause you have the spill over plug for the extra stuff, so ya can eye ball that one.

You can get it at any Harley Dealer ship if your local favorite bike shop doesn't carry it.

Seriously, once you go Red Line, you'll never go back.

Aloha,
el jedi

Btw: In the future, its best to get that tranny up to running temp when it comes to draining that tranny oil when the time comes.
 
For what its worth I put Amsoil synthetic gear oil in my Mark one because I had it and the gearbox went from being a clunky shifter to a very smooth one. I haven't noticed any leaking problems. This is not really a substitute for a proper shim job and I am not a magic oil promoter and I am sure any number of other synthetics of the same viscosity would have the same effect.

With Pete I am split on whether Moly is of any value. Caterpillar used to use it in all their gearboxes and that is usually a good sign it is. Some people have told me it promotes pitting. This may be the case but I have never seen it. In Canada Moly is available as MolySlip. They have an 'engine restorer' version at Crappy Tire that certainly is in the bogus 'magic' oil category as once your rings/bearings are gone no chemical can bring them back and the gearbox additive seems to have disappeared. I don't know if the engine restorer formulation is essentially the same thing as the gearbox treatment - I suspect they are.

Chris R
 
Moly was never supposed to go in the tranny, only in the rear end. I've been using it there with dino based gearbox oils in my T3 & 1000S. The Norge gets Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube & no moly. I do not use synthetic oils anymore in my old Tonti gearboxes & rear ends because I have personally experienced the synthetics not staying where they are supposed to as well as the dino based oils do. No such issues in the Norge-or in the 1000S crankcase.
 
Moly would be only for usage where extreme gear pressure is exerted and where the oil may have a tendency to breakdown at different forces and temperatures.
In my case the bevel gears (Pinion gears) is where torque is exerted the most and would require a Moly additive.
Besides ...... back then, 83 LM3, oil properties were different therefore additives were used.
The gear box would not need this additive.

Having said this ........
Certain specs of synthetic oils already have additives like Moly.
What puzzles me is that the synthetic versus mineral oils, with the same 80W90 rating, have different temperature viscosity rating.
Yet they use the same standard of testing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top