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Gear Indicator

Interesting.

Generally I don't need to know which gear I'm in but I guess being reminded that I'm still in 5th wouldn't hurt occasionally. A friend of mine has installed a top-gear LED indicator light on his last two bikes. Clever and useful.

Graham
 
I think about installing a gear indicator every time I go for 7th on my Griso....
 
My problem is where's the Nitro injector switch.... torque revs and POWER all in one little switch - don't need to know which gear, just press it and hang on B)
 
This indicator is universal- should work on all bikes with EFI and an electronic (not cable driven) speedo. As compared with factory gear indicators, this device has one important drawback you should be aware of. It determines the engaged gear based on readings from vehicle speed and engine speed sensors, so it will not work when clutch lever is pulled. You have to check your gear before shifting. There are other indicator on the market, but they all work on the same principle and have this limitation. I picked this one because it was Italian and under $100 on ebay.
Installation is not difficult, but requires some basic soldering skills. I'll follow up with detailed instructions, don't have time now.
 
I am sorry it took me so long to write it, but he it is.
It was my first time digging inside Breva, so I started by removing the fuel tank. Turned out that it wasn't necessary. The Gear Indicator is connected to ECU, and ECU is located very close to the front of the bike. Removing the tank does give you more room to work, but removing it is not a very easy task. Just cover it to prevent scratches or burns from the soldering iron.

Start with removing the front grill
Remove four screws "8", nut "10" and washer "11"

Unless you are adventurous with electricity, disconnect ground cable from the battery.
 
Next you will need to disconnect ECU connectors. ECU is in the middle, connectors are on the front. Push down on the tab with a flat screwdriver and turn the arm covering the connector outside, as indicated by the arrow. When turned full 90 degrees, the connector will pop out. There are two connectors on the ECU. Both have to be removed.


Remove the arms by positioning about 30 degrees from closed position and pulling it's sides out.
 
Disassemble the connectors. Slightly push two little tabs outside, as indicated by the arrows...
(I can only insert one image per post, so I have to do multiple posts).
 
Cut the cable tie, holding the wires, unwrap or cut the tape covering the wires, exposing about 8cm/3".
Now is time to solder. Let's start from the left side of the bike with "Body" connector. (See Breva Service Manual pp 69-71 for pictures and descriptions of the connectors).

The Gear Indicator has five pigtailed wires in a common jacket:
RED +12V Ingition
BROWN Ground
GREEN Vehicle Speed Sensor
BLUE Engine Speed Sensor
WHITE Calibration

Strip another few cm/inches of jacket exposing more individual wires. If you have some heat shrink tubing, put two 5cm/2" pieces over the jacket.

Find pin 17 on the body connector. Pin numbers are printed in the beginning and the end of each line of the pins, so the right wire is easy to find.
Heat jacket of this wire with your soldering iron about 2cm/1" from the connector. The jacket will melt, exposing the bare wire. You need to expose about 5mm/ 1/4". Solder RED wire and wrap the exposed wires with a piece of electrical tape.

Find pin 24 on the body connector and solder GREEN wire to it.




Wrap the exposed wire bundle with electrical tape and secure it to the connector with a new cable tie. Reinstall the cover and the arm.

Now move the right side of the bike and work on "Engine" connector. Connectors are almost identical, all procedures are the same.

At first I tried to connect the tach sensor (blue wire) to the crankshaft position sensor, but it's signal proved inadequate. I had a better luck with ignition signal, so BLUE wire should be connected to pin 10 of the engine connector.


I didn't solder the BROWN wire, but wrapped it under a bolt securing the ECU. This bolt may not be accessible without removal of the tank. Find other suitable ground connection, or solder the BROWN wire to pin 34 of the engine connector.

Reassemble the engine connector.
Insert both connectors into CPU. It proved a little tricky because space is cramped. Connector have to be positioned straight into the socket with the arm in the fully open position. Rotate the arm full 90 degrees, and it will pull the connector into the socket. Make sure that you hear click for the locking tab.

Mount Gear Indicator.
Route indicator's cable arounf the steering head positioning it behind a clip with other cables.
Clean indicator's bottom and a mounting point on the bike with alcohol. Mount using double sided sticky tape.

At this point WHITE wire should be hanging loose.
Reconnect the battery.
Turn on the ignition. The indicator should show "A" with red backlight. If it doesn't, check RED and BROWN wire connections.

Now it is time to calibrate. The best place is an empty freeway with a wide shoulder.
Start the bike.
Within 15 seconds from the start touch fork leg or other exposed metal part with the white wire. Letters on the display will start changing from A to F, background color will also change. When the color you want is on, touch the white wire to the metal again.
It will make the background color permanent and start the calibration process. Indicator will show blinking "1" Start moving in a first gear immediately, keeping steady speed with at least 3000 RPM. After 5 seconds indicator will change to "2". Shift to the second gear and continue riding with steady acceleration. Go through all the gears. When indicator changes to "7" slow down and stop. Calibration is complete. Ride in all gears to check if indicator shows correct gear. Repeat calibration if necessary, it is critical for correct gear indication.

Back in the garage, shrink one of the pieces of the heat shrink tubing on the indicator's cable over the point were you stripped the jacket. Fold the WHITE wire and shrink the second piece of tubing over it, covering the exposed end. If you didn;t use the tubing- wrap the cable in electrical tape.
Reinstall the grill and you are done.
 
Messing with electrickery? its all witchcraft i tell ya! :eek:hmy:
Nice pics and a good description of the job though.
 
One might prefer to do this after the warranty period ...

Am I right to expect that the ECU connectors and wiring are the same for all bikes using these ECUs? If so, the company really ought to come up with a piggy-back connector!

The early Breva and Norge ad material mentioned indexed gears. Not sure here, but I presume that means the ECU knows the selected gear. If so, annoying it isn't shown on the dash, shouldn't have cost much! (Now if this were a CANbus bike ...)
 
I don't understand the fuss.

Look at you speed, look at your revs, you should be able to guess what gear you are in. Should know when you're in top. Mine is under 4000 rpm at 100km p/h, 4150 rpm at 120km p/h etc

Robert
 
RJVB wrote:
One might prefer to do this after the warranty period ...

Am I right to expect that the ECU connectors and wiring are the same for all bikes using these ECUs? If so, the company really ought to come up with a piggy-back connector!

The early Breva and Norge ad material mentioned indexed gears. Not sure here, but I presume that means the ECU knows the selected gear. If so, annoying it isn't shown on the dash, shouldn't have cost much! (Now if this were a CANbus bike ...)
Click to expand...
There is no room for a piggyback connector, there is barely enough room to remove and reinstall the existing connector. According to Breva schematics, there is no sensor for gear selection. ECU may guess the selected gear just like the indicator- by comparing speed and engine RPM.
Roblatt- I can't keep all speed/rpm combinations in memory and sometimes look for the 7th gear, especially when going fast. Adding the indicator is relatively easy and inexpensive.
 
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