• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Griso 8V Fuel Tank Breather

Phang

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Jun 16, 2009
Messages
388
Location
Singapore
Griso8Vtankbreather.jpg


Service Bulletin 005-2010

I just checked mine, my 2009 bike has got a Free Passage :mrgreen:

Cheers,
Phang
 
I just went to check my fuel tank drainage hole. I had liquid pooled over the hole, which rather suggests that it isn't working. I used some kitchen towel to mop up and found that there was a hole approx. 2 cm deep. I found a post on V11Lemans.com http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15400 describing a case where the pipes where flattened and therefore blocked. This seemed like a possible explanation so I went to investigate. I took off the seat and removed the battery, but the pipe didn't seemed to be squashed. Then I noticed that the left hand branch (seen from the rear of the bike) was not connected to anything! I traced the right hand branch where it disappeared in the centre of the engine and found that it too wasn't connected to anything! What a useful pipe! The only thing is, while I can see that these should be connected to the two unions on the end of the tank, it doesn't explain why the liquid is not draining through the union anyway.

Anybody got any ideas why it isn't draining and secondly why my pipes aren't connected?

David :S
 
The overflow drain hose should only be connected at the tank. It allows fuel or water to drain out of the area to the ground. If the hole is only 2 cm deep, that is the problem. You should be able to push a wire though the drain to remove any blockage, or dry to blow out the blockage from the bottom with compressed air.
 
Yes those were my pipes, squashed flat. I think that I posted about all that stuff on here as well, with the pictures. No one was really interested :mrgreen: so it's nice now to have a fellow sufferer, even to a minor degree.
:whistle:

There is little free play in those short hose lengths on the Y piece (especially when pinned!) so they can be difficult to fit onto the tank. The very awkward position of the drain unions at the back of the tank makes for a tight fit in the frame, so increasing the difficulty. I saw two different positions in the tech diagrams. One tank has the unions in the bottom (the 1100 Griso?) which would make for easier fitting, but I think, from memory, that I speculated they had been moved to the rear of the tank because there isn't room under the tank with the 1200 motor fitted.

I found that when my bike came back from the dealer or 'authorised service agent' that the hoses were never fitted. Too much trouble, of course.

I have made new pipes with longer hose lengths.

As for your blockage, poke up in the union outlet(s) with something fine. I found crud in mine. Yes, mine too was blocked and not draining. It's ok now, after a bit of poking.
 
john zibell said:
The overflow drain hose should only be connected at the tank. It allows fuel or water to drain out of the area to the ground. If the hole is only 2 cm deep, that is the problem. You should be able to push a wire though the drain to remove any blockage, or dry to blow out the blockage from the bottom with compressed air.

John, it could be that it felt like it was only 2cm deep because the 'pokey thing' was coming against the internal bend? I'd need to look to check that. However, I do know that mine was ok at the top end: it was the bottom end, at the 'union', where stuff was causing a block.
 
Belfastguzzi said:
john zibell said:
The overflow drain hose should only be connected at the tank. It allows fuel or water to drain out of the area to the ground. If the hole is only 2 cm deep, that is the problem. You should be able to push a wire though the drain to remove any blockage, or dry to blow out the blockage from the bottom with compressed air.

John, it could be that it felt like it was only 2cm deep because the 'pokey thing' was coming against the internal bend? I'd need to look to check that. However, I do know that mine was ok at the top end: it was the bottom end, at the 'union', where stuff was causing a block.

Could very well be. The main thing is to get the line open so liquids can drain from the fill area.
 
I have tried connecting the pipes and blowing from the bottom. This pressurizes the tank, but didn't seem to clear the overflow tube.

Using a bit of wire sounds like a good idea. Thanks guys, I'll give it a try,

David
 
gulveal said:
I have tried connecting the pipes and blowing from the bottom. This pressurizes the tank, but didn't seem to clear the overflow tube.

Using a bit of wire sounds like a good idea. Thanks guys, I'll give it a try,

David

There should be two lines from the fuel tank. One is the tank vent, the other is the drain you are trying to clear. If the lines are connected together, then it will pressurize the tank (since the drain is blocked). You need to isolate the drain line from the vent line.
 
I decided wire might be a bit harsh - it could end up scratching something inside and causing problems down the line. I just blocked the breather branch of the tubing and blew from the bottom using my tyre pump. It made a nice geyser appear from the drain hole which shot water across the shed, so I think that is probably unblocked.

As is the way with these things, I managed to do some damage in fixing this problem. I didn't realise that the front fixing bolt for the side panels was held in by a rubberised fixing. Of course I overtightened one of these and ruined it. I'll know for next time.

I know it's a pain having to fix things on the bike, but it is satisfying and it makes the bike feel more like it's mine. So in some ways I quite enjoy it. It was the same when I sorted the suspension out.

Thanks for all your help,

David :D
 
If you don't go mad with the wire and use a titter of wit when selecting what type of wire to use, the wire won't do any harm. A piece of wire (or similar) will dislodge the little bits of stuff around the inside of the tank rear union/outlet.

The wee rubber locator for the threaded insert, like other bits of Griso rubber/threaded inserts, is a wee pain. I stuck mine back in and also taped it in, since when it has stayed where it should.
 
Back
Top