jdelv
Tuned and Synch'ed
hugzy said:
How about a pic of the beer tap installed?
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Griso idle adjustment - idling at 2000 RPM
- Thread starter jdelv
- Start date
How about a pic of the beer tap installed?
hugzy
Tuned and Synch'ed
Here's a picture of my beer tap, I checked the bypass screws yestoday and they were both open, one 1/2 a turn and the other 3/4 so I closed them both 1/2 a turn and the idle was much better strait away. I checked the vacuum and at 3000 rpm it was fine and at idle i just closed the other screw 1/4 turn and the vacuum was fine, so both bypass screws are closed now and my idle is perfect, about 1100 rpm. So it's worth checking those bypass screws as the dealers over here haven't adjusted them properly. Just note how many turns they are turned out and you can always put them back if there is no improvement.
jdelv
Tuned and Synch'ed
Sorry to bug you hugzy. But what and where are the bypass screws located? Picture? The picture of the beer tap valve is great, but it sounds unnecessary now given your "bypass screw" adjustment. I'm just confused now as to exactly what you did to get the idle right.
The Breva general service manual will show you where the bypass screws are located. You can download it from the downloads tab above.
jdelv
Tuned and Synch'ed
I fired up the Griso last week. And just like I thought it might, my idle was hanging at 2000 rpm. :angry: So, being prepared to test the stepper motor as the fault, I used a set of pliers to pinch the hose and the idle dropped to about 1000 rpm!
Knowing now that this is the source of my problem, I set out to find a universal fuel supply valve (I hate the word petcock, BTW). After searching Home Depot and several auto supply chains, I located one at Lowe's. It is the perfect unit for this in my opinion, but definitely not a stealth part. Too bad it's red not black [might be worth painting the red to black so it doesn't visually stick out so much]. $10.99 and includes clamps and a hose, which I didn't need.
Installation was quick, since I already had the hose re-routed. Not a time consuming task to move, but... I removed the left side panel so I could get a good look at the job. I chose this spot in the hose because it was straight, out of the way of intake and in a convenient place to use. I sat on the bike and oriented the fuel tap both ways to see in what position the valve would be easiest to shut off while seated on the bike.
Once I did all that, I snipped the hose at the center point of the valve in the position I wanted. Slipped the hose ends over the fuel tap ends. Done.
Thanks for all that posted about this easy fix. Now I have what is like a "choke" on the bike...old school.
But the only question I have now is, "Why the hell does the stepper motor fail in this regard and what is the correct fix?"
Knowing now that this is the source of my problem, I set out to find a universal fuel supply valve (I hate the word petcock, BTW). After searching Home Depot and several auto supply chains, I located one at Lowe's. It is the perfect unit for this in my opinion, but definitely not a stealth part. Too bad it's red not black [might be worth painting the red to black so it doesn't visually stick out so much]. $10.99 and includes clamps and a hose, which I didn't need.
Installation was quick, since I already had the hose re-routed. Not a time consuming task to move, but... I removed the left side panel so I could get a good look at the job. I chose this spot in the hose because it was straight, out of the way of intake and in a convenient place to use. I sat on the bike and oriented the fuel tap both ways to see in what position the valve would be easiest to shut off while seated on the bike.
Once I did all that, I snipped the hose at the center point of the valve in the position I wanted. Slipped the hose ends over the fuel tap ends. Done.
Thanks for all that posted about this easy fix. Now I have what is like a "choke" on the bike...old school.
But the only question I have now is, "Why the hell does the stepper motor fail in this regard and what is the correct fix?"Attachments
greenguzzi
Tuned and Synch'ed
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2010
- Messages
- 29
Excellent ,good idea and great pics. Now I just have to find a Lowes
goozy
Tuned and Synch'ed
Picked up the exact same valve at my local NAPA dealer.
jdelv
Tuned and Synch'ed
I'm pleased to say that this has been working well on the Griso. Even if the bike is parked for 10 minutes, I still find turning on the stepper via air flow to the tap beneficial to starting. But soon after you shut the tap off and it runs perfectly. I have been riding the bike for about a week now and there has been zero high revving issues. B)
hugzy
Tuned and Synch'ed
jdelv said:
Hi Jdelv, on the photo I posted with the beer tap on it you can see the molding on the throttle body with the numbers on it, the bypass screws are in those hollow moldings, using a short flat screw driver in the bottom of the molding you can adjust the bypass screws. At least one of the bypass screws should be closed, in my case I had perfect balance with both bypass screws closed. First count the number of turns that the screws are opened ( you can always put them back) then close them both, balance the TB at 3000 rpm and then adjust the bypass screws at idle to get the best vacuum balance.
And I'm pleased to read about the second adaptation of this mod. Should I experience a drifting idle, I will certainly put this mod into action. Maybe some black Krylon on the valve handle? It looks smart in red though.jdelv said:
And I'm pleased to read about the second adaptation of this mod. Should I experience a drifting idle, I will certainly put this mod into action. Maybe some black Krylon on the valve handle? It looks smart in red though.jdelv said:
I would think the plastic valves some have used will last a while, but the $12 fuel valve I used was made of metal, smaller, and generally better suited to the application in my opinion.
Either way, it is not a mod everybody needs to do but if you have stepper motor issues it can resolve them as well as improve the throttle response for those that don't like the stock set up.
Either way, it is not a mod everybody needs to do but if you have stepper motor issues it can resolve them as well as improve the throttle response for those that don't like the stock set up.
Penis Rotor
GT Godfather!
GuzziMoto said:
I'm quite happy to believe that it does. I just can't see how? The amount of air flowed by the stepper is very small. I wouldn't of thought it would have a significant effect on engine braking??
Pete
If the stepper has been blocked or an off on valve installed,should you turn the valve off,stepper blocked,to set low speed throttle idle sync after temp hits 60c? Hope my question is clear.
Yes, the amount of air the stepper adds is small, but so is the amount of air added when you have a vacuum leak. Yet that can cause the response to a closed throttle to hang. Back when I owned a Buell X-1 (great bike, when it was running right) a mechanic set the idle just a little higher then normal. That alone was enough to be felt when you closed the throttle. The reduction in engine braking was definitely noticeable. Also, just having lean jetting can cause a slow return to idle. And really that is what the stepper appears to be doing when you close the throttle. It is adding air leaning out the mixture. That slows the return to idle. With the manual valve I can turn that function on and off so it is easy to see and feel the difference.pete roper said:
Since the supply lines from the stepper to the throttle bodies Tee together there should not be difference one way or the other. The two throttle bodies are Tee'd together and then the single line runs to the stepper motor. Most, if not all, of the mods to turn off the stepper motor do so by stopping the air flow to the stepper from the air box. So it does not effect the connection between the two throttle bodies. But if you have the valve installed and are syncing the throttle bodies (I have not yet done that since I installed my valve, one of the hazards of too many bikes) then I would suggest you try it both ways and see if it makes a difference.duc said:
jdelv
Tuned and Synch'ed
Re: Griso idle adj - idling at 2000 - NEW! rough starting
I don't believe this new issue is related to the stepper valve I installed.
When I installed my battery last week or so ago, the Griso fired up first crank. My vstrom took some coaxing. Riding each of them regularly over the week they have both started first crank. I've been experimenting with Griso starts with and without the new valve on and off. It definitely likes starting better with the valve opened, and seems to like running after warmup better with the valve closed.
Yesterday I went to start the Griso after work and it didn't want to start. Would crank but not turn over. So I added throttle and it did start. I wasn't happy about it. Left work to go to teach an hour-long class at a different employer. After that class the Griso fired right up. This morning I rolled the Griso out of the garage and it was finicky to start again. I very much disliked the noises I heard coming from the bike as it failed to start after getting near starting. :angry:
WTF? All I did differently over the week was add 2 gallons of 93 octane to the winter-treated gas. We'll see what happens today when I go to leave work. Also, once it's running it runs like a top...fuel injection seems correct.
I might just have to take this bike with only 4900 miles on it to the dealer. Why would this be happening to a bike with such low mileage? Hopefully the previous owner didn't mess with it or something. Can't see why they would do that.
Thanks.
UPDATE: this was never a problem again, with the difficult starting. I always use my valve to start, it starts right up, I shut off valve. Works flawlessly.
I don't believe this new issue is related to the stepper valve I installed.
When I installed my battery last week or so ago, the Griso fired up first crank. My vstrom took some coaxing. Riding each of them regularly over the week they have both started first crank. I've been experimenting with Griso starts with and without the new valve on and off. It definitely likes starting better with the valve opened, and seems to like running after warmup better with the valve closed.
Yesterday I went to start the Griso after work and it didn't want to start. Would crank but not turn over. So I added throttle and it did start. I wasn't happy about it. Left work to go to teach an hour-long class at a different employer. After that class the Griso fired right up. This morning I rolled the Griso out of the garage and it was finicky to start again. I very much disliked the noises I heard coming from the bike as it failed to start after getting near starting. :angry:
WTF? All I did differently over the week was add 2 gallons of 93 octane to the winter-treated gas. We'll see what happens today when I go to leave work. Also, once it's running it runs like a top...fuel injection seems correct.
I might just have to take this bike with only 4900 miles on it to the dealer. Why would this be happening to a bike with such low mileage? Hopefully the previous owner didn't mess with it or something. Can't see why they would do that.
Thanks.
UPDATE: this was never a problem again, with the difficult starting. I always use my valve to start, it starts right up, I shut off valve. Works flawlessly.
Jlyon99
Tuned and Synch'ed
That looks to be the same valve I used. Info and pics on install are posted in the stepper valve delete thread.
Jlyon99
Tuned and Synch'ed
GuzziMoto said:
I found the thread, but you didn't mention whether you had to pull the fuel tank to reroute the hose from the stepper to the air box. I can see extra hose in there to allow it to route outside the TB, but it needs to be reoriented and I can't really see how get to it from the side, even with the wing off. Maybe I just have fat fingers...