• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Griso leaking gas

Moto Fugazzi

Cruisin' Guzzisti
GT Contributor
Joined
Nov 1, 2008
Messages
131
Location
Milwaukee, WI
My 2007 Griso is stored in the garage, and I've noticed a few drops of gas beneath the overflow hose. The entire garage stinks of gas! The tank is 95% full.
I can't find any pinched hoses, and when I open the filler cap, there is a whoosh sound of air escaping. The whoosh sound will happen every time I open the cap, whether I run the engine or not. I've read that this shouldn't be the case with fuel injection.
Anyway, what should I be looking for to stop the gas from overflowing? It's been happening whether it is 5f or 35f outside.

Ken
 
While we don't have the system in Oz I believe that on US models there is a one way valve in the breather system that may be in back to front or the breather hose itself may be pinched pressurising the tank and forcing the fuel out some way it ain't supposed to go out!

Check all the hoses and their attachments to the tank and charcoal canister and tank.

Pete
 
All tank suck, "whistling", and occasional stubborn starts have disappeared since I removed the evap can system from my Griso. The two tank hose connections are now teed together and vent downward. Easy fix and NO fuel drips in the garage now that the tank vents correctly.
Easy Fix:)

PS. cap off the TB inlets (formally connected to the cannister) or join them together by hose to avoid an air leak & lean running.
 
I've never had problems starting the bike until the gas started leaking-it took about 5 times today.
Is the evap can removal on the new forum? I know it was on the old one. Just never had time to get it done.

Are the TB inlets the connections to the fuel injection?
 
Moto Fugazzi wrote:
I've never had problems starting the bike until the gas started leaking-it took about 5 times today.
Is the evap can removal on the new forum? I know it was on the old one. Just never had time to get it done.

Are the TB inlets the connections to the fuel injection?

No, they are connected together via a T fitting the third connection goes to the Evap system to supply vacuum to suck the tank fumes through the charcoal canister. Just get rid of all that crap. I vent more gas into the atmosphere with a couple of tank fill ups on my van then all three of my bikes in normal operation combined in a year.

I capped off the intake inlets with 6 mm short screws using copper washers to seal them and as stated above use a tee fitting to connect both tank vents and ran the outlet to the bottom of the bike.

Here is the diagram for a Norge it can't be that much different and you should have you diagram in the first few pages of your owners manual. The throttle body assembly is shown to show the hoses going to the tee fitting from the intake runners that third hose does NOT connect to the throttle body assembly which would be difficult to tell from the diagram.

Clipboard01-1.jpg
 
DanR wrote:
Moto Fugazzi wrote:
Are the TB inlets the connections to the fuel injection?



I capped off the intake inlets with 6 mm short screws using copper washers to seal them and as stated above use a tee fitting to connect both tank vents and ran the outlet to the bottom of the bike.

Like Dan, I capped off the connections to the fuel injection bodies. I saved the fittings that were there and set them aside to use as connectors when balancing the throttle bodies.
 
Well, as for it being too cold for me to want to remove the canister, I removed the one way valve and added a coupler in it's place.
So far, no more gas leaking or smell. Bike starts easier as well, and no air escaping when I open the gas cap.
Once it actually gets over 30f, I will remove the canister. I also have a couple of blind caps (rubber nipples) to fit over the fuel injection body fittings. That way, there's no way I can lose the fittings.
Thanks for all of the help!
 
Moto Fugazzi wrote:
Well, as for it being too cold for me to want to remove the canister, I removed the one way valve and added a coupler in it's place.
So far, no more gas leaking or smell. Bike starts easier as well, and no air escaping when I open the gas cap.
Once it actually gets over 30f, I will remove the canister. I also have a couple of blind caps (rubber nipples) to fit over the fuel injection body fittings. That way, there's no way I can lose the fittings.
Thanks for all of the help!

Glad you solved the problem, but be aware those nipple inlets do and will get hot ! So keep an eye on those caps. I keep the nipples I removed in my tool pouch kit so it's always on the bike.
 
Back
Top