• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Guage removal due to misting.

K

kiwi8v

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
17
Location
Oamaru
Have a new 8v griso that has not been ridden in rain or washed yet. It has the good old misting problem. I am going to remove and do the fix as described in the forum. Do I have to disconnect the wiring from the console and if so will this cause any problems with the electronics system. Are there any tricks to removing the console I need to know. Dont want to end up with more proplems than I started with.Sorry if this is covered in another posting but cant find much on the actual removal of the console.
 
Good luck with this. I was going to do it also but chickened out. Like you I could not find much about the actual clock removal so decided not to do it.

It is warming up here now so it may not be any issue for a while, unless the moisture in the clocks causes some damage.
 
The funny thing with my misting is that it only used to do it below about 17 c but the other day when up in Christchurch it was 29c and it started misting. Bloody strange as bike came straight out of the box, been garaged and has had no water near it. I will have to bight the bullet and do it or get a new one under warranty which is still no guarantee that it will work. Ahh the joys of owning a new guzzi and getting it sorted.
 
kiwi8v said:
Are there any tricks to removing the console I need to know. Dont want to end up with more proplems than I started with.Sorry if this is covered in another posting but cant find much on the actual removal of the console.
Click to expand...

I removed mine without any particular problems. Sorry that I don't remember the details though. I'd recommend you just begin.
 
Thanks for that link to the apriliaforum. I had been looking for it for some time. I wanted to adres the condensation problem i had this winter but i couldn't find the link and chikend out. :lol: :lol: It takes a lot of courage to do this as it is an expensive part
 
On my third set now so IMO there's a hole in the factory roof. Simply drill a few holes (wooden block stop on the drill bit so you can only drill in 2mm - and test this first on a a bit of old plastic casing) and leave it somewhere warm in a sealed plastic box with silica gel (freshly dried out in the oven). Silicone the holes back up. Tried the prise open, drying it out and re-sealing technique but it seems there must have been a load more water in there or some absorbant something.
 
It isn't hard at all if you are decent with tools. I had my entire gauge pod and headlight removed and disassembled, and all four turn signals removed in less than twenty minutes. I disassembled my gauge pod (07 g11) when I was painting the pod case, and found that there are factory breather holes on the lower, back side of the gauge cluster (visible when removed from the pod). They are there (apparently) to relieve pressure/vacuum caused by temperature change. I have performed the pod reseal job, but left those factory holes on the back side open (I figured they're there for a reason, and they are concealed by the pod case when it is all assembled, which stops any direct water penetration other than vapor), but still get slight hazing from time to time. Have there been many documented cases of clusters going bad directly from humidity getting in there?
 
I Had my guages re-sealed as I didn't wanna do it my self but when I saw how easy it was I though I should have just done it my self, anyway as I said I had it re-sealed and the guy done the job meticulously but it hasn't made the slightest bit of difference, when the sun shines on it it steams up so the problem has nothing to do with the seal between the lens and the casing !!!! the vent holes in the inner casing let in air so I presume that the moisture in the air just condenses in the casing and when the sun shines on the cluster it causes the moisture to evaporate and condense on the lens. Re-sealing has not fixed my misting problem !!!!

PS. My bike has never been in the rain or washed with a hose !!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top