SparkyMJ
Tuned and Synch'ed
Hi folks, happy holidays.
After searching through the various oil pressure sensor leak threads, I am still trying to figure out the most updated sensor to use.
The sensor on my Norge 8V appears to be the one with the spade on the black sensor body plastic, so I don't think this is the original terrible unit with the nail head. I believe from searching that this part is 1D001138. The valley on my motor had a good amount of oil wetness prior to me cleaning it out, and then I noticed that the spade and plastic body of the sensor rotates semi-freely inside of the large metal hex housing you would use with a socket to tighten the sensor. I figure this is no good, and where the oil leaks come from. Here is a picture of my engine valley after cleaning it out:
It seems some various online shops have different suggested new sensors for the Norge though. Some dealer websites still say 1D001138 is the current go-to, but on say it seems they list 1D001138 as an outdated part, and to get the sensor 1A024308R. This sensor looks a bit different from the one on my bike, this sensor looks to have a brown sensor body/plastic, a space connector, and black epoxy/sealant between the brown plastic and the metal hex housing.
It also says on the product description (and hinted at by the other oil sensor threads) that there is a chance the threads on my motor could be M10 or M12. The switch 1A024308R says it has M10 threads. But it says if your engine has M12 threads, to get the "Napa" replacement sensor, that appears physically identical to the leaking unit I have on my engine currently.
Can anyone just confirm that these are the two current runner-ups for pressure sensors to use on the 1200 8V motor? Or if there is a more current or improved switch model to use? I plan on just pulling out my sensor to check the thread pitch, then ordering the best match unit and a new crush gasket. Is that the current best course of action? Seems folks on here and elsewhere have had mixed solutions over the years, and I suspect as new parts came to light, the solutions have changed as well, so I want to just check in to make sure the old threads are still the most current information.
Thank you in advance, happy holidays folks.
-Mike
After searching through the various oil pressure sensor leak threads, I am still trying to figure out the most updated sensor to use.
The sensor on my Norge 8V appears to be the one with the spade on the black sensor body plastic, so I don't think this is the original terrible unit with the nail head. I believe from searching that this part is 1D001138. The valley on my motor had a good amount of oil wetness prior to me cleaning it out, and then I noticed that the spade and plastic body of the sensor rotates semi-freely inside of the large metal hex housing you would use with a socket to tighten the sensor. I figure this is no good, and where the oil leaks come from. Here is a picture of my engine valley after cleaning it out:
It seems some various online shops have different suggested new sensors for the Norge though. Some dealer websites still say 1D001138 is the current go-to, but on say it seems they list 1D001138 as an outdated part, and to get the sensor 1A024308R. This sensor looks a bit different from the one on my bike, this sensor looks to have a brown sensor body/plastic, a space connector, and black epoxy/sealant between the brown plastic and the metal hex housing.
It also says on the product description (and hinted at by the other oil sensor threads) that there is a chance the threads on my motor could be M10 or M12. The switch 1A024308R says it has M10 threads. But it says if your engine has M12 threads, to get the "Napa" replacement sensor, that appears physically identical to the leaking unit I have on my engine currently.
Can anyone just confirm that these are the two current runner-ups for pressure sensors to use on the 1200 8V motor? Or if there is a more current or improved switch model to use? I plan on just pulling out my sensor to check the thread pitch, then ordering the best match unit and a new crush gasket. Is that the current best course of action? Seems folks on here and elsewhere have had mixed solutions over the years, and I suspect as new parts came to light, the solutions have changed as well, so I want to just check in to make sure the old threads are still the most current information.
Thank you in advance, happy holidays folks.
-Mike
