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Help with dash error 2013 NTX

S

Silent Singer

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 2, 2016
Messages
17
Location
UK
First let me say that this bike is so underrated. I can't for the life of me think why it didn't sell better than it did. I've only had it for 6 months but I'm astonished just how capable this lump of pig iron is in the bends against mates on very fast litre bikes. It's fantastic.

That being said I had an error appear yesterday that will not reset. Ecu error 23: coil 1 GND
A quick visual inspection on both coils and they look ok. Cleaned up the earth spade connectors on each coil as they look a little corroded, tried the dash reset but the error remains.

My knowledge is limited to google but I can find my way around a multimeter. Can someone tell me which coil is coil 1 (left or right as sitting on the bike) and does anyone have an idea what the dash fault refers to specifically. The bike starts and runs fine, did a 100 miles yesterday with no issues apart from the dash error triangle light and "!SERVICE" across the bottom of the dash.
 
Yes they are incredibly good. Congrats. Hope you'll add your info to the Registry here. Price is why they didn't sell well (though I bought two new that I stll have... '09 demo & '13 demo -- love them both for different reasons).

Coil 1 should be left side seated. Check the spark plug caps for damage and arc'ing if they are still stock. If all good there, it might take some dealer intervention.
 
That code is not the coil ground that is attached on the coil itself (spade connector). It is the circuit ground pin of the coil connector (pin 2 on the connector) to the ECU. Pull the connector from the coil and make sure it is clean and free from corrosion. Both coil grounds go to the brown plug on the ECU. On is Orange/Green (Pin 38) and the other is Blue/Green (pin 10). Need to make sure it is not broken to the ECU or a loose connection. I would start with just removing the brown plug on the ECU and make sure there is no corrosion and then visually check the wires. If that does not solve the issue it is going to be a bit more involved.
 
Thanks for the replies. I will get around to adding my info to the registry.

I didn't think it would be the spade. I'd di check the ecu connectors but now I know what pin it is I'll bell it out on the meter. Will the error clear by itself if the problem is solved or do I need the guzzidiag software to clear it?

Thanks again
 
ECU errors should clear themselves once they are repaired. There is no memory for it. Only Dash errors have a memory and can be reset on the dash itself. You can also try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes to see if it clears (basically a hard reset), but if the problem is still there (and sounds like it is) it will come back.

Ring out the wires and see what you get. If you get a copy of the service manual there is a procedure on how to check the coil. Also, as Todd suggested, take a look at the sparkplug boots. Although the error is most likely on the primary side of the coil, a short on the secondary side could cause the same error, but not 100% sure. Only strange thing is you said the bike is running perfectly. May just be a loose wire and only loses contact for a split second. Unnoticeable to you, but is to the ECU.
 
Now heading to the garage. Already tried the battery disconnected for when checked the ecu plugs the first time. Very strange that it runs then. I'll report back with my findings.
 
If all that fails (ie. can't find the problem), switch the coils around. If the problem follows the coil then at least you know that it is a coil issue and not necessarily wiring. Good luck and let us know what you find.
 
Ok, so pin 38 on the brown ecu plug to the ground wire on the primary side of the coil is good (0.1 ohms on the meter) and with the ignition turned on, the primary side ground wire on the plug to chassis earth is also good (0.0 ohms). I also removed and checked the spark plug, reset the gap and cleaned all the dirt off the plug boot with spray degreaser. Connected it all back up and....the error is still there...and the bike starts and ticks over fine.

The only thing I couldn't check accurately Is the primary coil resistance, which looks to be 550mohms. I'll swap the coils over when I next get a chance to look at it.
 
Can someone clarify this for me, I may be reading it wrong. In the workshop manual (pg 73) under troubleshooting it states:

"With the key set to KEY ON, check the cable ground insulation (from the coil connector or control unit connector). If this is not OK, restore cable harness."

Does that mean it should read open circuit on the meter?
 
I would interpret that as it should read closed (ie. continuity) to ground with the key on. Translation is always an issue in the manual. Just to be sure check the other coil wire to ground. As long as they are the same, you should be good.
 
Good idea. I'll check against the other and then swap those coils over and see if the fault transfers.
 
Ok, so I swapped the coils over and the same error 23 remains. I've disconnected the battery until tomorrow in some vague hope that it'll clear but I'm guessing my problem lies within the wiring somewhere. What I can't get my head around is why the bike bike runs fine.
 
Silent Singer said:
Ok, so I swapped the coils over and the same error 23 remains. I've disconnected the battery until tomorrow in some vague hope that it'll clear but I'm guessing my problem lies within the wiring somewhere. What I can't get my head around is why the bike bike runs fine.
Click to expand...

Let us know what you find but that is a weird one. I don't know at what points it throws a code. May just be a small short or loose connection that builds up enough resistance to throw the code, but not affect the coil or the bike.

Give all the connectors a good spray of contact cleaner including the ECU connector. Also confirm that you truly have a solid ground on the spade connector on the outside or the coil. Failing all that, not sure where to go with it. Your coils are definitely good so that is not the issue. Like you said will have to be in the wiring. Failing that, you may need some software to do a hard reset of the codes to eliminate that cause. Your disconnecting of the battery should theoretically be doing the same thing but the electrics are not exactly an exact science on these bikes sometimes.

Check the wires from the coil to the ECU as it states in the manual. Perhaps something will stick out as not being right.
 
I've done most of that. Contact spray on all plug connections. Cleaned up the spade connections on both coils. 0.1 ohms on the spades/chassis. 0.1 on the primary ground wire to pin 38 on the brown ecu plug and 0.0 ohms primary ground wire to chassis with the ignition on.

Very strange indeed. If it didn't run alright then it might be easier to diagnose! I'll see what I can find out tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
 
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