How to question on Resetting the Norge Dash?

[afulldeck]

Anyone know the magic to clear the errors in the Norge dash? I assumed it was Delete errors from memory, but when I try to delete them it does not do the trick. I have been following this algorithm:

1) Go to the diagnostic section via 28315 code
2) Go to the Dashboard to see errors:

- - A M
01 o o
02 o X
03 o X
04 o o
05 o X
06 o o


3) Go to Delete errors in memory
4) Say Yes to clear errors
5) Go back to Dashboard to see error cleared, but they are not cleared.


Anyone know how I can clear these errors and does anyone know what the A and M columns mean in the Dashboard error section.

Currently my bike doesn't start, but I do not believe any of these errors are true errors. What I am inclined to believe is that these errors in memory are causing the problem. Sometime in the winter I had the bike running without my dash installed and this is where the problem began....

Any help would be appreciated...

 

[john zibell]

To start, the "A" column indicates active faults. The "M" column registers faults that have occurred in the past. As long as the fault isn't in the A column, you are good. The clear codes only clears codes in the A column. The only codes that would prevent starting are the immobilizer codes (codes 1 through 4), but it should ask for a user code when the dash didn't recognize your key.

Now, on the no start, what do you observe when trying to start?

 

[GTM®]

To expand slightly on what John stated above:
A = Active
M = Memory

The only way to clear the M is with some type of diagnostic software (dealer, Centurion that I offer on this site, etc).

Search "no start" here, and you'll likely be able to troubleshoot. Could be a low battery, bad ground or the dreaded wiring relay issue.

 

[afulldeck]

To expand slightly on what John stated above:
A = Active
M = Memory

The only way to clear the M is with some type of diagnostic software (dealer, Centurion that I offer on this site, etc).

Search "no start" here, and you'll likely be able to troubleshoot. Could be a low battery, bad ground or the dreaded wiring relay issue.

Its not low battery, I'm using my car battery for the jump. Not the dreaded ground wiring or relay. Turn it on, dash lights up, I hear the full pump. Hit the starter and click is all I hear. Might be a great engine, but man, its a bitch to keep running.

 

[PP-1753]

Sounds to me like the dreaded earthing point or the starter relay issue. Start with the cover over the starter motor - under it is the main earthing point - these have been Loose, Corroded on a number of different bikes - start here. If this brings no joy then look at the starter relay mods detailed on this site - they do work and the problem does go away afterwards. Check your battery connections as well - these have been known to corrodes with green stuff - make sure this is all good first.

You might have another battery but of the connections further on are no good, a hundred batteries will not solve the issue.

 

[afulldeck]

Sounds to me like the dreaded earthing point or the starter relay issue. Start with the cover over the starter motor - under it is the main earthing point - these have been Loose, Corroded on a number of different bikes - start here. If this brings no joy then look at the starter relay mods detailed on this site - they do work and the problem does go away afterwards. Check your battery connections as well - these have been known to corrodes with green stuff - make sure this is all good first.

You might have another battery but of the connections further on are no good, a hundred batteries will not solve the issue.

I pulled the cover and everything looked great. Metered the earth point and its fine. I can feel the starter kick when starter is pushed. Battery and cables all look great.

What are these starter relay mods for exactly?

 

[john zibell]

I pulled the cover and everything looked great. Metered the earth point and its fine. I can feel the starter kick when starter is pushed. Battery and cables all look great.

What are these starter relay mods for exactly?

Don't go by looks, remove the ground, clean and re-attach. Also make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.

The purpose of the mods is to provide sufficient voltage to energize and hold the solenoid. If the solenoid doesn't hold, the starter just clicks and stops or you blow a fuse. The power supply to the starter relay under the seat goes through too many points and there is a considerable voltage drop. The mod provides current directly from the battery from a new fused lead.

 

[2veloce]

MG really used a piss poor design using a cheap 3-pin molded plastic connector (at the battery) to supply power to the wiring harness and from the alternator. You can almost blow on the connector and it will come apart. This is just the start of the voltage drop. It would not take much to install a much more secure connector. And, quite frankly. this connector is not needed anyway...IMHO.

 

[kiwi dave]

What are these starter relay mods for exactly?

Find the starter relay, you should be able to identify it by feeling a click when you attempt a start. To confirm you have the right one, it is the only relay with a yellow wire.

Cut this yellow wire a couple of inches from the relay, and add a wire from the battery positive (preferably through an in-line fuse) to the yellow wire attached to the relay. The remaining yellow wire from the harness can be simply taped up and left or used to power auxiliary devices such as a PC5 autotune module.

If you want a preview on how this will work, temporarily attach a wire to the positive of the battery. After you press the start button, brush this wire on the back of fuse B until the starter motor cranks. This action bypasses the voltage drop through the wiring and ignition switch to the solenoid.