As a teen I broke my wrist and now it is starting to give me trouble when using the clutch. Is anyone aware of a hydraulic clutch kit for the V7. Thanks
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Untitled motorcycles retrofitted one onto their V9 bobber. Might want to contact them about how they did it and if its truly functionalAs a teen I broke my wrist and now it is starting to give me trouble when using the clutch. Is anyone aware of a hydraulic clutch kit for the V7. Thanks
Thanks I will.Untitled motorcycles retrofitted one onto their V9 bobber. Might want to contact them about how they did it and if its truly functional
Except it doesn’t work (and is downright dangerous) I keep hearing. I’m test riding one in the hills here soon.Equipped with Quickshift…
That would cut down dramatically on the use of the clutch lever
What about the magura hydraulic conversion kits they offer for several models? Seems like a different take without overcomplicating retrofits.It is a b..ch to do a afterthought hydraulic clutch set-up... master and slave cylinder diameter/volume & length of levers, travel .... and % Solid mounting points..! Even if using hydraulic throw out bearing doesn’t make it better
I learned my lesson... agree with Todd
It’s opening a can of worms...
Proper routing of the cable (maybe replacing them occasionally because the nylon – Teflon shield might be worn through ) and lubrication maintenance is key...
And a little strength workout
Alternative would be a V100
Equipped with Quickshift…
That would cut down dramatically on the use of the clutch lever
My Dnepr had a mechanical connection between the shifter and the clutch arm.. was a cool feature...
Here is the equation you are working with:As a teen I broke my wrist and now it is starting to give me trouble when using the clutch. Is anyone aware of a hydraulic clutch kit for the V7. Thanks
Thanks for your response. Just saved me money and headaches.I predict I will be ignored on this, as 20+ years in performance modifying Guzzis (so WTH do I know), but in my experience these hydraulic kits are not great. Most currently on the market are made for light action clutch/single cylinder bikes. I went through two purpose made versions on my 1100, and wouldn’t do it again.
Sorry, the UM builds are non-ridden art projects.
thanksHere is the equation you are working with:
Force (lever) x Distance (lever) = force (clutch) x distance (clutch)
or
F x D = f x d
Solve for Force at the lever
F(lever) = [f x d]/D(lever)
Check out your clutch lever. With your hand issue, could you go with a longer stroke (D)? If you can, then improvements may be possible. Say you could live with 1.2 times the present stroke. Then, F(lever) would be F/1.2, or .833.
Your Force at the lever would be 83.3% of what it presently is, but at a longer Distance (20% longer).
This change could be accomplished by modifying the mechanical mechanism at the clutch, or with a hydraulic mod. All this as a way to say that unless there is something wrong with the cable (kinked, pinched, corroded….) hydraulics offer no advantage.
Hope this helps,
FMerlino
Magura doesn't have one.What about the magura hydraulic conversion kits they offer for several models? Seems like a different take without overcomplicating retrofits.
Look up Magura hymec clutch system. I'm not allowed to post links to competitors. They got different sized slaves with lines of varying sizes as well.Magura doesn't have one.
Thanks.Look up Magura hymec clutch system. I'm not allowed to post links to competitors. They got different sized slaves with lines of varying sizes as well.
On a correctly designed clutch lever and cable system, all of the lever force is used releasing the clutch. However, I have seen systems where the clutch releases relatively early in the clutch lever stroke, and the additional movement and force from the clutch hand is spent fighting the return spring.thanks