How much valve clatter is acceptable on an 04 Hydro motor? My Titanium has some clatter on the right cylinder. Was just at startup now, it is there up to 2500rpm. I have less than 2000k on it. Not always but, more often than not.
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Hyrdo With Clatter
- Thread starter Keith
- Start date
There should be no clatter. Have you had the recall performed?
I was told, it had been done from the dealer that I bought from. It had 3mi. on it when I got it. Within a very few miles it started the lifter noise. But once underway it stopped. Now more often than not it is there. It pretty well stops above 2500rpm. Now it happens almost all of the time. How do you tell it has the recall service performed. I was told by a dealer that is common to have lifter noise and that they are all different.
If it was a high mileage and had dirty oil I could believe that. Less than 2000k and fresh oil it should not in my opinion. I still have 18mo. of warranty left.
Thanks Keith
If it was a high mileage and had dirty oil I could believe that. Less than 2000k and fresh oil it should not in my opinion. I still have 18mo. of warranty left.
Thanks Keith
vivo
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Hi Keith...
I have a Griso, I know you dont but I thought I would just throw this bit of info out there... I thought my valves were noisy, it took a while to isolate but I found the sound came from my headlamp bulb, haven't taken it apart just yet but it's definetly the bulb.headlamp housing.
I wonder if your bike might be doing something similar to mine, although it's a different bike? Just thought to suggest it might be something other than valves???
vivo
I have a Griso, I know you dont but I thought I would just throw this bit of info out there... I thought my valves were noisy, it took a while to isolate but I found the sound came from my headlamp bulb, haven't taken it apart just yet but it's definetly the bulb.headlamp housing.
I wonder if your bike might be doing something similar to mine, although it's a different bike? Just thought to suggest it might be something other than valves???
vivo
To tell if the update was done, remove a valve cover. On the unmodified, the rocker just has a blank at the pushrod side of the rocker. If the update has been done, the pushrod side of the rorker has an adjusting "screw" with a locknut. Once an initial clearance has been established (specified in the update procedure), the locknut is secured and the head of the adjuster is sheared off. If someone has a PDF of the update they can post it as it has pictures of the old and new valve train.
Penis Rotor
GT Godfather!
Take a rocker cover off. If the rockers have adjusters that look as if the tops have been snapped off just above the lock-nuts then *a* recall, no idea which one though, will of been performed. If the rockers have no means of adjustment above the pushrod with just asmooth top to the rocker no recall has been carried out.
The second and final recall also involved different valve springs and most importantly retainer caps for the springs. If the retainers are shiny aluminium alloy then the second recall has been completed. If the caps are a duller colour they are the original, (I think?) steel caps and are another indicator that further work should be carried out.
Pete
The second and final recall also involved different valve springs and most importantly retainer caps for the springs. If the retainers are shiny aluminium alloy then the second recall has been completed. If the caps are a duller colour they are the original, (I think?) steel caps and are another indicator that further work should be carried out.
Pete
Hi, The retainers are quite shiny. It also has dual valve springs if that matters. The owners manual says to re-torque the head bolts. Should I? If I do, will I have trouble getting the rocker arm shafts back in to get to the bolts underneath? Am I making something out of nothing? It bothers me to hear the noise. My mind goes into overdrive. Maybe I want solid lifters again :unsure: On the adjuster,that has been snapped off, is it too hard of a metal to cut a slot in,to make a minor adjustment? If I did loosen them could I make a mark with finger nail polish before they are loosened to keep the adjustment. UGH! Maybe someone could give me some warm milk with a tranquilizer and tuck me in for the night.
Thanks Guys for your input.
Thanks Guys for your input.
I'm hoping Pete pops in with the definative answer but I believe the hydro engines have the old sytle gaskets that should be re-torqued once after assembly. To be able to get the rockers back on, remove the pushrods while you have the rockers out. Lift out the hydraulic lifter with a magnet. There is a small hole with a check valve it in, press in with a piece of wire to release the valve and compress the lifter. Once you get oil pressure again, the lifter will expand. If the original clearance was set correctly, it should be no problem. If you still have clatter after that, then a lifter is failing.
Hi, I have not put it back together yet. I bought 2 magnets both were to big to get to it. I put gun grease in the cup of the push-rod,squished it down and it came right out.
IF the lifter has failed,will a Guzzi shop have to do the work. Could I buy a new lifter,get the tool and set them. It is still under warranty. Is there a fairly high failure rate on the bikes that have had both recalls performed on them?
All of the headbolts had a good snap when I loosened them. I put them back at 35lbs.
Thanks Keith
IF the lifter has failed,will a Guzzi shop have to do the work. Could I buy a new lifter,get the tool and set them. It is still under warranty. Is there a fairly high failure rate on the bikes that have had both recalls performed on them?
All of the headbolts had a good snap when I loosened them. I put them back at 35lbs.
Thanks Keith
Hi, A week ago today I took it to Ace Mallot. He lives up to his reputation. "Good That is". There was a lifter to loose, exhaust and the intake was tight.
I had put Bubs on it. They are quite thin compared to the Guzzi header pipes. Within 10 miles the right side was blue and getting bluer. The left side was still chrome, no color change. I was told by a dealer that was the nature of the injected bikes one side runs hotter than the other. Ace found that the right side was out of sync. He brought it back in.
I had changed back to the Guzzi header pipes. Couldn't stand to look at that blue pipe. I put the Bubs back on since Ace dialed it back in. Praise God, both pipes look the same now,within 50 miles.Too,this bike vibrated worse than any Guzzi I had owned. That is gone also. As well as the clatter. :cheer:
Keith
I had put Bubs on it. They are quite thin compared to the Guzzi header pipes. Within 10 miles the right side was blue and getting bluer. The left side was still chrome, no color change. I was told by a dealer that was the nature of the injected bikes one side runs hotter than the other. Ace found that the right side was out of sync. He brought it back in.
I had changed back to the Guzzi header pipes. Couldn't stand to look at that blue pipe. I put the Bubs back on since Ace dialed it back in. Praise God, both pipes look the same now,within 50 miles.Too,this bike vibrated worse than any Guzzi I had owned. That is gone also. As well as the clatter. :cheer:
Keith
Penis Rotor
GT Godfather!
Keith said:
Erm? how was it established that a fifter was 'too loose'? Being hydro lifters they run at zero clearance but the valve/s that are held open when the engine is stopped may bleed the lifters down a bit while stationary.
To check if the adjustment is correct you need to remove the lifters and replace them with a 'False Lifter' which has a height half way between the maximum and minimum lift of the *real* lifter.
If the engine was clattering and the valve adjuster needed it's height altering EITHER the recall wasn't carried out correctly OR all that has been done is that the wear on the tappet foot and cam lobe has been accounted for by adjustment but wear will continue apace, the noise will return and all the while it will be doing further harm to the engine and most specifically the oil pump.
I hope, for your sake, that it is simply the recall work having been done by a klutz but if that was the case then it is highly unlikely that the oil pump was inspected and if a failure has occured it is almost certain that the pump is no longer serviceable.
Keep a finely tuned ear to the motor. Any more noise at all and it has to be stripped again.
Pete
Thanks for the heads up. I have put almost 300mi on it since Ace re-adjusted it. It is at the moment better than it was. I am tempted to buy a couple of lifters to have in case of more noise. The joy of a Guzzi is not having a dealer close. It is under warranty. I am not sure what I can do or have done on it if the shop is not certified Guzzi.? I do not know how much they cost. For me it would be peace of mind knowing that if it did re-occur I would have them. Are the lifters pricey or are they really pricey ?
On TDC, engine hot, there was play, not sure really how much but, you could move the rocker arm some. Hopefully It is fixed. Just a thought, would the Guzzi roadside assistance give me a trip to a dealer if it is not right? It would be cheaper than extensive motor work.
Thanks for your input.
Keith
On TDC, engine hot, there was play, not sure really how much but, you could move the rocker arm some. Hopefully It is fixed. Just a thought, would the Guzzi roadside assistance give me a trip to a dealer if it is not right? It would be cheaper than extensive motor work.
Thanks for your input.
Keith
Penis Rotor
GT Godfather!
Lifters alone won't fix it. If the lifters are fucked so is the cam.
The only part of the engine that gets unfiltered oil is the oil pump. If the lifters have had time to fail the pump will of destroyed itself, since the Hydro's need very light oil to allow them to pump up quickly on start-up if the pump is gouged when the oil reaches operating temperature it can't maintain adequate pressure, (The oil light only shows a complete loss of pressure, damage occurs well before this as the oil cannot wedge properly.).
If I were you I'd do the job properly yourself. Pull the cam, drop the sump and inspect. depends how much you want to keep the bike, but I would expect anybody half decent to at least tell a prospective purchaser of potential problems.
Pete
The only part of the engine that gets unfiltered oil is the oil pump. If the lifters have had time to fail the pump will of destroyed itself, since the Hydro's need very light oil to allow them to pump up quickly on start-up if the pump is gouged when the oil reaches operating temperature it can't maintain adequate pressure, (The oil light only shows a complete loss of pressure, damage occurs well before this as the oil cannot wedge properly.).
If I were you I'd do the job properly yourself. Pull the cam, drop the sump and inspect. depends how much you want to keep the bike, but I would expect anybody half decent to at least tell a prospective purchaser of potential problems.
Pete