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I Want the Name of the Guy Who Designed ...

Bill Hagan

Bill Hagan

GT Reference
GT di Razza Pura
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
1,708
Location
Above Pott's Camp along Braddock's route, Virginia
... my Norge's air box.

So I can make a voodoo doll in his image and stab it daily. :devil:

Reassembling my Norge after many tasks under the tupperware, and had been dreading getting the air box and its hoses in place and connected.

The experience did not disappoint. :swear: What an unmitigated PITA. Does it really have to be this fornicating hard? :mad:

Not my first air box rodeo. The EV's isn't fun; don't recall doing the Ballabio's; have yet to pull the Griso's; and this was probably my third or fourth time with the Norge's.

Have to say it was (a very little) bit easier with the new hoses I bought for this service session, but no matter what technique or products (usually silicone) I use, it is an unmitigated struggle. :punch:

If anyone has broken the code on this aspect of wrenching a Norge, please share your secret.

But, it's done, and I'm having a celebratory bourbon to celebrate.

I'll be at a "Greatest Generation" uncle's funeral for a day or so, but when I come back, I can start reattaching ( and cursing) the plastic.

Lordy, even with the #$%^ air box and maddening tupperware, I do love the beast. :inlove:

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Bill
 
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The secret I believe is too place the airbox in really hot water so it becomes more pliable for a while.

It's been a while since I've dealt with a CARC airbox, I tend to avoid removing them (once bitten twice shy). But when I do, I intend to follow this advice.
 
I think at the factory all is assembled and the frame is lowered on last!! At least it seems that way when you try to work on the darn things. I do like Kiwi's idea. In the summer I could just set one out for a little wile in the Alabama heat to have the same effect.
 
I hope never to have to remove the airbox but one thing I have noticed on this 2012 Norge is a lot of the plastic has been redone to make working on the bike easier. Removable flat panels on either side of the inner fairing so the dash can stay in place. You can remove the left lower side without removing the right side then the center lower cowl first. Several other minor things but appreciated. I'm sure when I do the rollerization I'll be making a voodoo doll myself.
 
I've had mine off a couple of times (2006) and found it easier the second time. Mine did come up through the frame tubes with a bit of wiggling. The worst bit was the oil drain tube, lose that and it's a pig to thread it up again.
 
Why Bill, you just need to practice more often! A few years ago, I had a dream (well a nightmare actually) that my bike caught on fire because of the fuel lines. It upset me so much, that I went out and purchased a new fuel line and put it in before I went on a rally.

I took 65 minutes from go to whoa, which I thought was pretty darned good. What I took away from the effort was that re-assembly needs a firm hand (just like an errant child) and it all comes together quite well. Glad you got yours together, and are well rewarded with your tipple of choice - celebrations are always good.

No incidents for me on that rally, but a mate of mine had his bike burn to the ground because of a fuel leak. Kinda spooky...
 
Well Bill, I'm glad you got it back together! My Norge airbox re-assembly stories are not fit to print, so let's leave it at that.
Oh well, just a hint...K-Y Jelly next time ;-)
 
a squirt of WD40 does wonders in all of the rubber/plastic areas, and lets them "move" easily so you can wiggle it into place. Also we have a product called Armorall over here, which provides treatment for plastics and does the same.

So, now you are spoiled for choice - or which one or the other you want to swear (cuss/expletive) at!
 
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