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Ignition cutting out SP w/ Dyna ignition

Rafael

Rafael

GT Reference
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
1,096
Location
San Leandro, CA
Last September before leaving to the Nevada rally my bike wouldn't start. So I checked for spark and found none. So I took off the tank and found a loose wire connection, it rand from one of the coils to the little black box. Pushed it in all the way, and tied up some loose wires to the frame and the bike started and ran great for the whole trip and then some. It cut out once again on the freeway but this time I can't find any loose wires. It seems to run okay now but I'm not riding it. Can a Dyna ignition performance degrade over time or does it just crap out? Any suggestions for figuring this thing out? Both coils lost spark the first time.
 
Those dyna wire connections aren't the greatest. You should disconnect and reconnect every one doing a thourough inspection and replace any connectors that are suspect. I've never seen degraded performance on a dyna. It either works or it doesn't.
 
Thanks JZ- she's going into surgery today. Hopefully I don't find a damaged wire that's a permanent attachment to the black box. Has anybody found a source for mini bullet connectors? I've had no luck.
 
Be sure to check your engine kill switch, I went through that last summer on my SP till i finally bypassed it.
 
Ditto on prior post saying the Dyna's usually work or they don't. There have been a number of problems reported with the wires, though. I know you said both coils didn't work before-but it is possible the situation has changed, & coils are famous for being OK until they get real hot & then go south-until they cool off. Also agree the kill switch can be an intermittent problem, though I gather the SP switchgear is not as bad as the really crap T3 stuff. My T3 kill switch started shorting out on the rain after only a few years.
 
Both times that the spark cut out the bike was cold, the first time was in my drive way and the second time just starting out about 3 miles from home on the freeway. While on the freeway, I tried jiggling the kill switch to try the regain contact but it didn't help. This pattern seems to point to poor wiring but I won't be able to test drive it for a while since the rear drive is off for new seals.
 
OK, coils seem unlikely, as is anything else that wouldn't effect both sides. I wouldn't completely rule out the kill switch, or something in that circuit, even though jiggling it doesn't seem to help. Forgot another possibility, namely the crappy ignition switch that come on these early Tontis, both yours & mine. Did you try jiggling the key when you were having the problem? Most bikes of this age have had the stock ignition switch replaced by the much more reliable Zadi, available from MG Cycle & others for about $25.00. I still have the original, but that bike has always been garaged & WD-40 shot in to the key holes whenever washed.
 
I think I have the updated to the Zadi ignition switch already, in any case I replaced the switch a few years back it came with the folding button top key. I don't remember the idiot lights cutting out when the ignition cut out. Are these on separate circuits?
 
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