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klanky gear change

hugzy

hugzy

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Aug 6, 2010
Messages
39
Location
Zonnemaire, NLD
All the tests that I read before I bought the Griso said that the gear box was smooth or slick but not on my Griso, Out on the open road its fine, if you don't have to change gear, but in town it's a right pain but I found out what was causing it, there is a little screw on the inside of the clutch leaver and this wasn't screwed in far enough so the clutch wasn't disengaging properly. so that was a cheap fix.
 
Everything is relative. My gearbox on my Griso is kinda like a Harley gearbox. The action is pretty light but you get the sense that large gears are moving when you shift and it does make loud clunks sometimes, even just taking off.
But your idle seems high. And setting the throttle cable slack to the absolute minimum makes a big difference. Last but not least, learning what it likes made a big difference. Mine does best when I use the minimum amount of clutch for shifting. When done right it usually snicks into the next gear.
If you search this you'll find that it is well documented here and that throttle cable adjustment makes a big difference.
 
My gearbox is smooth as silk. After the test ride, I actually asked if it was some sort of microswitch gear change, it was so much better than my Yamaha FZR1000. I'm guessing you checked the oil level.

First thing I'd check is the linkages from the shifter to the gearbox, I know that I have had problems with my old V50 and current Cali, both with rough changes, that were down to the linkages. Its worth a look.

As GuzziMoto says, check the throttle cable adjustment, it makes a huge difference.
 
hugzy said:
All the tests that I read before I bought the Griso said that the gear box was smooth or slick but not on my Griso, Out on the open road its fine, if you don't have to change gear, but in town it's a right pain in the back side, at low speeds, gear change is embarrassing to say the least, the gear box cluncks up and down and the drive shaft cluncks up and down, and snatches as you (carefully) open the throtle and as the tick over is so high 1200-1300 rpm it throws you at the vehicle in front of you so your always pulling the clutch and braking, it's no fun at all, any one else got this kind of problem ?
Click to expand...


Do you have the latest map in your bike? The updated maps helped many machines.
 
You don't say what model of Griso? The gearboxes and the likely cures, (Aside from the throttle cable slack already mentioned.) are different between the 1100's and 1200-8V's.

If your bike is an early, (Pre 2010.) 8V then mapping may be an issue, as may incorrect pushrod length and/or a poorly bled hydraulic system. You also haven't menioned if the machine is stock or has been modified in any way? More info please.

Pete

PS. 1200 rpm is the correct tick-over speed.
 
Sometimes mine is smooth as silk. Other times, it's SUPER loud (like an explosion) and sometimes, it even kicks back at you when downshifting. This is rare, but when it occurs, it almost always happens when shifting to neutral. NO, it's not me going past the neutral mark. Yes, my clutch works properly.

Upshifting is always slick except sometimes between neutral and second.

Oil level is fine, running the reccomended 80/85 synthetic.
 
An '07 1100 here, yeah the gearbox is a bit "loose"! More so than I would have expected. I also have a devil of a time trying to get the thing in gear from Neutral. Stomping, wiggling the shift lever, rolling the bike back and forth - I'm not impressed with the transmission.

And that driveline snatch, is quite disconcerting when cornering. Throttle cables are tight BTW. I've just put it down to being normal for a shaft drive, since I've always had a chain prior to this. I've learned not to make throttle adjustments in corners.

Can be fixed maybe?
 
There is always a tiny transmission snatch. I can imagine how it would be unsettling to someone not used to shafts, and I guess its just the tolerance in the bevel gears. Its sort of like a chaindrive bike on a really slack chain if you totally shut off then power on again.
 
GuzziHero said:
There is always a tiny transmission snatch. I can imagine how it would be unsettling to someone not used to shafts, and I guess its just the tolerance in the bevel gears. Its sort of like a chaindrive bike on a really slack chain if you totally shut off then power on again.
Click to expand...

Nah. the dicernable backlash is between the engagement dogs on the gears in the gearbox. the clearance between crownwheel and pinion is measured in thou.

Pete
 
Thanks for the answers guys although i'm really none the wiser, some do, some don't. Mine's a 07 1100, 3.5 k miles, sounds like wetcoast_griso, also 07, 1100 might have a similar problem, I sometimes have trouble getting it into first from standstill, although I just let the clutch up and it drops into gear (with a clunk). I think I have got the latest map, at least a couple of months ago the dealer said he'd updated it. Yesterday I had a new problem, It wouldn't start cos the starter motor was jammed, had to put it in gear and rock it about a bit then it worked again.
It's not that i'm not used to a shaft drive, I had the old T3 for 13 years and the back lash was nowhere near as bad as this. I think the Griso needs a heavier fly wheel, think that would calm it down a bit ! Is it possible to adjust the idle speed ? I thought the computer governed that ? Should the throtle cable be tight or not ?
I think I might have a short clutch push rod cos I don't seem to have much pitch ( is that the right word ?) or should I say I've got quite alot of free movement in the cluch lever and I bled it myself a couple of weeks ago so I doubt if air is the problem. I should try to get a ride on another Griso but there's not many of them about over here.
Cheer's
 
Throttle cables should have no more slack them required to keep the idle from changing as you turn the bars lock to lock. More then that leads to herky jerky behavior. Mine idles at 1200, but the tach only says 1000 rpm. The computer controls that. Some have issue with the stepper motor that can lead to a higher idle then it should have. If the clutch engages near the end of travel (away from the bar) then I would think your push rod is correct. If it engages close to the bar then you might have an issue there.
 
Throttle cable should not be 'Tight', but it should have the absolute minimum free play. Use tha adjusters up by the twistgrip to take as much as you can out without the engine speed rising as you move the bars from lock to lock.

Obviously the gearbox is still tight. The reluctance of the bike to slip into first is down to the fact that when cold the grease in the bearings and the oil in the box are preventing the pinions spinning and the dogs aren't lining up to engage. By dragging the clutch a tad you get things spinning and it'll drop into gear. This will improve in time as everything loosens up.

The idle speed is controlled by the ECU in conjunction with the stepper motor. 1200 RPM is the correct idle speed.

I suggest that you ensure that the TPS is set correctly, if a new map was recently uploaded the person who did it may not of realized that you need to re-set the TPS and, (Just because you can.) the parameters to factory standard after the upload. If there is any dispute about this being neccessary or reluctance on the part of the peron who works on theb ike I'd suggest taking it somewere else. Re-setting these things takes about five key strokes with Navigator. The longest part of the proceedure is firing up the bloody laptop and praying the poxy piece of Texa junk is going to work. If it plays the game all of the electronic 'Tuning' takes about five minutes.

As with so many bikes that exhibit problems it sounds to me more likely that its been 'Fiddled' with by someone and that will be exacerbating the problem. Nobody has tried to adjust the idle speed by messing with the throttle stop screw have they?

Pete
 
wetcoast_griso said:
And that driveline snatch, is quite disconcerting when cornering.
Click to expand...

For my 07 1100 about 90% of the driveline snatch disappeared when I removed the charcoal canister. I had the same issue about throttle adjustments in corners and had to really work the clutch and throttle to minimize sudden changes. I can't explain why removing the canister smoothed it out so much for mine as some others have not reported that much (or any) improvement on their bikes when the canister came off.

All this is with the consideration that your bike came with a canister (US bikes do - many other countries don't).

Bill Buchanan
 
Hi Bill, My Griso is a European bike so it hasn't got the Can, When I got it the yellow paint on the balance screw was gone but the throtle stop screw hadn't been touched, I think the problem has something to do with the diference between closed throtle and just opened throtle, as soon as the throtle just opens it gets to much fuel to pick up gradualy, it goes to fast. Could the mixture be too rich ? Is mixture adjustable ?
 
I also have a "clunk" in gear shifts on my '09 G8V with 1300 miles. Typically it's only 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. Higher gears don't see as much "clunking". I experience more of it on downshifts, although it needs to get in for the cam follower recall, tps reset, and updated maps. Hopefully some of these will help the gear change problem.

I'd think the gearbox should be through it's run-in process by 1300 miles, right? Thanks.

-Phil
 
My gearbox on my 2009 G8V always gave the good clunk when shifting on occasion; it was more frequent when the box wasn't up to operating temp. As with the odd noises that the bike made I learned to think nothing of it. Adjusting the throttle cable slack via the adjuster screws helped reduce but not eliminate the (CARC to gearbox?) clunk when doing low speed stuff with the clutch in over speed bumps or divots in parking lots.

The only other odd thing about the gearbox is sometimes when I would shift I wouldn't feel the "notch" of the gear change, and it would just feel like I was moving the lever to the end of it's stroke. It always completed the shift but felt weird. This has happened on up and down shifts.

and +1 on the TPS reset. I think when I got the new 068 map installed at the first service the tech didn't reset the tps and it was popping a lot. Finally 5000 miles and 5 months later I took it in and paid for a tps reset and a throttle body synch and the popping on decel was reduced by about 95% (stock exhaust).
 
God's teeth? when you install the #68 map the ECU reads the TPS signal as about 10.4 degrees! Unless its re-set the bike runs like an absolute horror! This is exactly the problem Dave had, (Well, one of many.).

When I installed that map in my Oz G* the moment I fired it up it was obvious that someything was horribly wrong. Pressing two buttons on Axone or Navigator gets you back to the live data page and you can SEE that the TPS setting is wrong. Obvious first action? Re-set the TPS. How dificult is that? Another two keystrokes!

As for having to pay for a TPS and TB ballance? Isn't this included as part of every service??? And since the map upgrade was, I assume, paid for? Why wasn't it included in the price of that? It's part of the job.....

Pete
 
All of which makes me more angry that Speedaway didnt reset mine even after I asked them to do it! Most Guzzi owners research their bikes more than plastic rocket riders, so we generally know something of what we are talking about.
 
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