• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

klanky gear change

I'm not sure quite what's up, Best I can figure is the tech didn't know about the TPS reset after a new map. On my first service sheet of tasks completed there was a check mark that was scribbled out on "Throttle Body Sync" so I figured it either wasn't needed or wasn't done (I've heard stories about technicians being scared/uncomfortable doing TB sync's so they skip them during service) that's why I had both done later. I just feel kind of stupid that I didn't get it done sooner because the bike ran soo much better afterword.

Then naturally a month later after the bike's finally running nicely my oil pan gets a nice new hole in it...

As for paying, meh, I'd rather pay them $60ish to do it and not give a fuss about doing it, and prove my point afterword if it made a difference; then trying to argue with them that something's not right and needs to be worked on free of charge (even though it was paid for during the first service at 600 miles). I also forgot that the tps reset/tbs was done at the 6250 mile service, but honestly the popping was driving me crazy and I wanted to see if it would be fixed with a tps reset/tbs.

And yeah trying to tell the technician what he SHOULD be doing when servicing my bike just ends up irritating them so I rarely try. I go back and explain later that the bikes running much better since the "unnecessary tps reset and tb synch" and maybe he'll change his ways and learn, maybe not. And if whatever I have done doesn't make a difference then I'm out the money and learn something.
 
Is the clutch on the Griso in any way adjustable ? I don't mean the lever but like on a cable cluch you could just tighten the cable a bit or is it just the length of the push rod ?
 
hugzy said:
Is the clutch on the Griso in any way adjustable ? I don't mean the lever but like on a cable cluch you could just tighten the cable a bit or is it just the length of the push rod ?
Click to expand...

The Quattro Valvole engine has 4 different lengths of clutch push rod. That’s the only form of adjustment I could think of.

8Vclutchpushrods.jpg


Phang
 
hugzy said:
Is the clutch on the Griso in any way adjustable ? I don't mean the lever but like on a cable cluch you could just tighten the cable a bit or is it just the length of the push rod ?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'd like to be able to have the clutch lever actuate closer to the bar. I'm not used to the lever being so far out. Do the aftermarket levers bend in a bit more than the stock?

Maybe I should get finger extensions :lol:

But I like my Griso - really I do.
 
Back to the topic at hand, I have a US model, bought this year at MI in Seattle - with the can. I've made no adjustments or tweaks. Had the first service at MI in June, and that didn't change the driveline lurch one way or the other.

18 years of riding the VFR I've developed this cornering style - gear down before going in, lean 'er over and just after the apex give'r the gas and power out. On the Griso I have to add a tap on the brake going in to the corner (less engine braking from the 1100 than Honda's 750), then I coast thru the apex and a bit beyond and gas 'er once I straighten up so the "lash" is less of an issue.

This may be normal handling for the Griso I really don't know, and since I don't run across a lot of fellow Guzzisti I'm left to ponder... I've read the reviews that talk about the play in the driveline, :idea: so maybe I have to get used to a new cornering style.
As for the gear changes, I'm only just under 2000 mi. so according to Pete there's hope that the gearbox may settle in.

BTW I was out again this morning and lovin' it, and anyway that's what's important!
 
They have 6 adjustable positions. On setting 4 of 6, they JUST clear the clutch if I am wearing summer gloves. If I wear padded waterproof gloves, I have to adjust them one position out... so yeah, they make a big difference :)

BEWARE: they do NOT come with the clutch plunger, so you will need the plunger from your current levers. The plunger pin is held with a grub screw which will shred at the slightest provocation. Doing mine, I had to strip the plunger thread because the grub screw hex broke although it still works just dandy, but others may not be so lucky.

---
Actually I got it wrong, I got these ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SHORTY-A ... 20b33baabe which dont flip up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top