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leaking Cardan shaft

Thanks John,

I'll pull the wheel this weekend (or sooner if I get time) and post up what I find.

If it is the seal, could the heavier weight oil have caused the leak given I've had a trouble free run for six years or is it coincidence?

cheers

Robert
 
The seal is rubber against steel. It probably just wore out. Some last a long time, some do not. Seals do require some lubrication to hold up. I oil seals when I install them. The heavier oil may have contributed to the seal wearing but you can't say for sure that it did.
 
Pulled the wheel off on the weekend and found no leaks from the seal or oil dripping, although there was an oil stain on the bottom of the seal.

It appears to only leak when it warms. I'll change the seal and go back to the Motul 75/90 oil I have been using up to now.

I know it leaks when it's warm because the CARC was only half full of oil. I always fill to the bottom of the fill plug so I presume the heavier oil pushed its way oil with extra pressure.

Until I get around to it....

cheers

Robert
 
Roblatt said:
OK, 50,000km later my 2066 B11 has developed a leak from the CARC. It appears to come from the bearing seal where the rear wheel bolts on. I haven't had time to pull it off and have a good look (probably this weekend).

.....

I religiously change drive train oil every 10,000 km. I've been using Motul 75/90 and 2,000km ago my Guzzi dealer told me to change to Belray Gear Saver Hypoid gear oil 85w/140.

Could the new oil have pushed out the seal?

thanks,

Robert
Click to expand...

Is this the successor to the last Breva 1100? Must be an ultra modern bike....
What did the dealer recommend 85w/140 for the gearbox or final drive? Is this really necessary?
 
Gazdok said:
Roblatt said:
OK, 50,000km later my 2066 B11 has developed a leak from the CARC. It appears to come from the bearing seal where the rear wheel bolts on. I haven't had time to pull it off and have a good look (probably this weekend).

.....

I religiously change drive train oil every 10,000 km. I've been using Motul 75/90 and 2,000km ago my Guzzi dealer told me to change to Belray Gear Saver Hypoid gear oil 85w/140.

Could the new oil have pushed out the seal?

thanks,

Robert
Click to expand...

Is this the successor to the last Breva 1100? Must be an ultra modern bike....
What did the dealer recommend 85w/140 for the gearbox or final drive? Is this really necessary?
Click to expand...


OK, you got me. I made a typo (or I'm ahead of my time). And yes, the dealership that sold me the bike new gave me and recommended the oil It was actually 90/140. While he had a brain fade and misunderstood 1100 for 750 Breva, I also hold myself accountable because I've been doing oil changes long enough to at least have looked at the weight - I didn't, thinking it was just a brand change. Let's call a spade a spade.

I've got the seal and correct oil now so hopefully this weekend I'll do the work. Quick question, do I need to grease or oil the seal prior to installation, or does it go on clean and dry?

regards

Robert
 
After a few weeks laid up, I thought I'd update. I finally replaced the seal and tested the bike with a 300km pie shop hop, and it ll seems to work fine. The seal was fiddly to remove but the new one easy to install. I did notice there is no seal dust cover between the wheel and the CARC so I'll get one installed soon.


cheers

Robert
 
I did notice there is no seal dust cover between the wheel and the CARC so I'll get one installed soon.
Click to expand...
Yeah they can go awol while at the tyre fitters. There is a big pile of them inside the well of the tyre stripping machines :lol: :lol: Or they use 'em to play ninja's with at lunch time, I can just see em jumping backwards up onto the tyre racks to avoid the bosses evil look :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Anyway I'm glad you got it fixed ;)
 
Can the seal in the final drive be changed in situ, or does it need stripping down? Found oil on my back wheel rim so took the wheel off and found oil around the brown seal on the drive.
Cheers, Paul
 
Check the bearing before replacing the seal. Primary cause of the seal failure is a bearing failure. Once you check the bearing and if good, it is only a few bolts to remove the rear drive. Better to have clear access to the seal.
 
Finally got round to doing this, and the smaller bearing at the opposite side of the CARC feels a little slack. its a6206-C3, (higher internal clearance. Should I replace it like for like, or an ordinary 6206? I'm leaning towards the latter.
 
Going to a tighter clearance bearing wouldn't hurt. Just be careful of the pre-load. The more balls in the bearing the better, and a metal cage is a plus. The metal cage may make it louder, but it will perform with less chance of failure than a plastic cage.
 
My feeling too, going for an SKF bearing, so should be fine. Thanks once again John, nice to have my thoughts confirmed.
 
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