• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Leaky Throttle Body?

freshbreva

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 5, 2013
Messages
48
Location
Palm Desert, California, US
Photo link shows what I noticed on right side of my B11. Haven't done much to check it out as yet except for just wiping it off. Doesn't smell of fuel, but would oil be dripping from there? It would be nice if something just needed a little tightening. (I could use a little myself -- I'm going to go have a drink and think it over.)

http://aikins.name/GooseDrip.jpg

Thanks,
Ron
 
Ron,

The old "overfilled with oil and now coming into the airbox and R/H throttle body" syndrome. Not unusual but a PITA to keep clean. you may need to remove your throttle body section (in one piece and don't touch the sacred screw) and give it all a good clean so it doesn't gum up.

The amount of oil you need in the sump is just enough to come up to the "MIN" line on the dipstick. Otherwise it pump it into the airbox and most of it goes into the airbox drain tube (you have emptied this?) with a little into the R/H throttle body and eventually dripping as per your picture. In fact it could be my bike you took the photo of...

A bit of diluted degreaser will get rid of the stains but WILL permanently mark the engine paint...
 
What Tony said. In addition, Formula 409 or even Simple Green is pretty good at getting rid of the oil without staining the painted surfaces. When you clean the throttle bodies, use a good carb cleaner, and not the environmentally friendly one. It can damage paint more so that the other stuff.
 
Thanks for the replies. Ah - good news. That is, good in the same sense as the doctor knowing exactly what's wrong with you and the disease isn't fatal. But, that's disappointing that I overfilled the crankcase after so carefully measuring the recommended amount. I didn't use the check-the-dipstick method, figuring Guzzi should know how much oil was proper.

About the clean-up: maybe it's easier to paint the whole crankcase with oil then wipe it off. :)

Ron
 
Hello everybody,
I am Emanuel from Athens - Greece.

I own a Breva 1100 bought used and I am encountering a strange issue: sometimes there's a leak if something like oil from the right TB. It only happens sometimes, when the engine is stressed. It doesn't seem to affect the operation but...it's quite annoying.

2yx2ixv.jpg

35i0m76.jpg


Has anybody the same "problem"?
What can be the cause and the solution of it?
 
I've combined these threads, see above. I'll also move this to the FAQ section after a week or so.
 
Oh, sorry I didn't see the existing thread!

I still have a question though. How come only the R/H gets dirty? Which btw is farther from the drain tube than the L/H... ! It's like the R/H cylinder is more "sucky"
 
Emanuel, seems to be another "feature" of Guzzis. For the life of me, I cannot explain it - it seems to defy the laws of physics.
 
Back
Top