• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

left half of Breva 1100 dashboard gone south

frans belgium

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Messages
4
My Breva 1100 dashboard has 'lost' the left half of it's visibility. So left blinker arrow (a bit embarassing), abs (no worry, haven't got it anyway), and oil pressure light (oh boy) are gone.
The problem seems intermittent however, yesterday I noticed the left arrow coming up normally. After stopping for fuel, it went again.
My dealer says a new dashboard, but that is costly and besides: if the lights come back from time to time, couldn't that point in the direction of a loose connector problem of some kind?
This morning I checked the connector to the dashboard itself, and that seemed ok.
Any ideas?
 
More than likely you probably have a bad solder joint on the board inside the dash, maybe a capacitor or resistor or some other chip on the board going bad.
it might be hard to find though.


good luck
 
Frans---You might try finding a ham operater or electronics buff to take a look at the board and components. Sometimes during manufacturing, a cold solder joint can be created. It's not uncommon for the joint to function for some time and then lose it's ability to allow current to flow through it. Many times it can be repaired just by remelting the solder so it flows properly and makes the connection. With such small and delicate components involved, it's best left to someone experienced in such matters. Who ever does the repair will probably be able to find the cold solder joint with a magnifier and volt-ohm meter. You should be able to find someone locally. I used to operate a "ham" station in the past and spoke with many hams from your part of the world. Then I got on a close friends bike after 30 + years away from them and went home and sold everything radio related to buy a new bike! I guess we never get the thrill out of our blood completly. Now i'm really having fun . :laugh: Max
 
By now, after asking several people who 'should' know, it has become pretty clear that some computer component inside the dashboard has broken.
I understand that, providing the bad part CAN be located, repair seems almost impossible or very expensive.
New dashboard = more than 800 euro's :mad:
Anyone with a second hand dashboard on the shelf?
My meter shows 32000 + km
 
Back
Top