Unable to find this type of locking plate for rear main bearing bolts on my 75 850 T. What would be a suitable replacement ?
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Locking plates for 1975 850 T rear main bearing.
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You can easily fabricate that same thing from any piece of flat steel stock. It can even be like 2 mm thick. Drill two holes and fold up the tabs on the side of the bolt after tightening.
You can also buy generic locking plates at well stocked auto parts stores.
You can also buy generic locking plates at well stocked auto parts stores.
You can also use 8mm Schnorr washers. That is what is used on later bikes. If you must use the tabs, Harper's list them. They are part number 12012800. Give them a call to see if they are available. Also MG cycle lists a wavy washer that can be used in place of the plates. Search on the tab part number and they will appear.
Thanks for the suggestions and speedy reply's.
Fiat500
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I used schnorr washers on my T.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
I would not recommend using schnoor washers - they will embed into the soft alloy, allow the bolts to loosen and leaks will result. Been there, seen that.
The factory <did not> use them on later bikes, but rather DIN 137B wave washers. I buy them from Belmetric, item no. WW8BMECLZ
The factory <did not> use them on later bikes, but rather DIN 137B wave washers. I buy them from Belmetric, item no. WW8BMECLZ
Moto-Uno
High Miler
I'm kinda surprised no one has suggested Loctite !
It’s because it wouldn’t be a good thing to use.
It really is so simple. I just go to any home improvement store. In the section where they sell graded bolts and nuts, they have drawers with sheet steel in various configurations.
I could easily take a stock pice of flat stock, drill two holes and cut the whole thing to length. Insert the bolts, tighten, and physically bend the end up until it touches the edge of the bolt face. The bolt will never come loose accidentally.
It really is so simple. I just go to any home improvement store. In the section where they sell graded bolts and nuts, they have drawers with sheet steel in various configurations.
I could easily take a stock pice of flat stock, drill two holes and cut the whole thing to length. Insert the bolts, tighten, and physically bend the end up until it touches the edge of the bolt face. The bolt will never come loose accidentally.
On some of the year 2000 engines the bottom two bolt holes for the rear main were drilled through and not blind holes. Oil would travel the threads leaking out. I would clean the holes well and use Loctite 242 to seal the threads. It wouldn't hurt to use it on all of the bolts.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
All of the older (big twin) engines have the lower two bolt holes below oil level. I use Hondabond 4 to seal those two bolts as well as the oil return line banjo bolt (in addition to the crush washers). Low-strength thread locker is a good idea on the others.
Moto-Uno
High Miler
Years ago Yamaha and a few other Japanese manufactures used those same metal tabs to secure the rear drive
sprocket to the wheel . All of them within a couple of years discontinued the use of them, because they were finding
the easily folded tab metal also settled and the lost torque caused the sprocket to eventually break free after the fasteners loosened . Historic, but then so are the engines we're speaking of . I threw mine out decades ago and I've only got 1/4 million kilometers
on the Le Mans 2 . AND , we all know that YMMV
! Peter
sprocket to the wheel . All of them within a couple of years discontinued the use of them, because they were finding
the easily folded tab metal also settled and the lost torque caused the sprocket to eventually break free after the fasteners loosened . Historic, but then so are the engines we're speaking of . I threw mine out decades ago and I've only got 1/4 million kilometers
on the Le Mans 2 . AND , we all know that YMMV
! PeterFiat500
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Thinking about it again l didn't use schnorr washers I used Belleville washers and maybe loctite but it was awhile ago.
Does the thickness of the washers matter ? I can get the wavy washers locally.
Shouldn't. You will still have plenty of thread engagement.
Thank you for the reply.
Amboman
Cruisin' Guzzisti
Not all wave washers are created equal - the reason I specified DIN 137B is because they are thicker and stronger than your average "bought at Home Depot" wave washer.
Thanks for that info.
Ordered the wavy washers from Belmetric today.
Would it be a good idea to use Honda bond on the rear main bearing gasket ?
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Shouldn't be necessary. I do use a thin coating (smear) of chassis grease on many gaskets to hold them in place while securing. Once the housing is tightened down, and you have sealant in the lower two bolt holes you should be fine.
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