• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

Lower gap between back tire and fender

Jpsmont

Just got it firing!
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Switzerland
One thing I visually don't like on the 1400 is the big gap between back tire and the fender. It makes the bike look a bit odd, specially if have a side number shield and drive a custome. Has anyone any experience in changing the shocks? Any other solution? Do you have pictures?
 
I'm with you on the look, see; https://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-back-half-cali-1400.10024

As to shocks, no one has shortened them yet that I know of, and shortening them has its consequences as to ride quality. However, the Touring shocks are ~12mm shorter then the Custom, and of course building a custom length set is not a problem with any of the offerings I have here; https://www.guzzitech.com/store/category/suspension/?filtering=1&filter_model=72

Todd is absolutely correct. Lowering the REAR will change the chassis dynamics unless you change the FRONT in a similar manner. If you drop the rear say 25mm (1 inch) you will have the effect of "raking out" the front end. This will actually slow steering response slightly. (think chopper) Whether this is an issue for you will depend on your riding style.
Fortunately, you can raise the front forks in the triple clamps by a similar amount and keep the stock suspension geometry in tact.
Simplest way to set this up is to find a fixed point on the frame NOT on a suspension part!! and measure from there to the ground. Do this at two points one near the rear of the frame and one near the front of the frame. Do this BEFORE you start playing with things. Once you are all done measure your two points again, they should both be about 25mm less than the first baseline measurment.
Now you can begin the dark art of setting suspension sag, spring rates etc.......
 
With a 31" inseam I've set my rear end as low as can go by moving the adjuster rings all the way to the top such that the spring is stretched as far as possible ... still messing around with it though and the shock adj't to get the best of all worlds for me (seat height, comfort, handling) but like Touringman says, it's a dark art. I've been pulling over on the country roads I ride and with a dollar coin turning the shock adj't screw.

I tried it all the way out which seems to be the cushiest and all the way in which is the firmest ... now to get it right.

If anyone around 165 lbs has it mastered, do share your settings! :)
 
I've set my rear end as low as can go by moving the adjuster rings all the way to the top such that the spring is stretched as far as possible
Oy, well it is important to get the sag set correctly otherwise you are either nearly bottoming the shock, or sitting on the bumper going down the road now I suspect. Sharp edge bumps are likely bouncing you out of the seat I suspect. Doesn't the manual give you settings? You are ~180 in gear, so as delivered was probably close... you may have even needed to add a little preload. If you want a shorter seat height, you'll need shorter shocks. Built-to-order shocks are one of the best investments you can make.
 
16o plus gear so I figure 165-170 tops ... it's only a helmet, jacket, boots & gloves for gear so 170 I guess.

Issue is I'm on the balls of my feet set as the manual says and prefer it lower.

I did lower the rings 1 full turn when I got back from an earlier ride so I'll go as low on the rings (high on the seat) as I feel comfortable with at a stop light.

Thx for chiming in though Todd and am I correct in saying that the shock screw IN all the way is the least rebound?
 
If its solely to lessen height, you could look at the seat. I had a custom seat made and i gained enough distance that now i am more comfortable or should I say more confident when stopped.
 
Thx for chiming in though Todd and am I correct in saying that the shock screw IN all the way is the least rebound?
There should be a 'S' and 'H' around the screw = Soft & Hard. I think that all the way in would be full hard/slow rebound.
 
Oy, well it is important to get the sag set correctly

Todd,

I could probably look in the owner's manual (if they list it...) for the sag setting on the rear suspension, but thought you might know based on your experience with your Custom.

Can you state the recommended SAG setting (in inches) for the rear suspension?

Knowing this, it does not matter what one weighs. Simply set the spring tension until you reach that measurement. Once the sag is set, it is trial-and-error to get the rebound setting in the right range.
 
If its solely to lessen height, you could look at the seat. I had a custom seat made and i gained enough distance that now i am more comfortable or should I say more confident when stopped.

Good idea too ... assume you bought a spare for the base and re-did the cushion section completely? How much did it lower it for you?
 
Good idea too ... assume you bought a spare for the base and re-did the cushion section completely? How much did it lower it for you?
Lou, I first brought the lower gel factory seat, it was about an inch lower but I thought I could get it lower and push me further ahead. I rode to Richs custom seats in Washington, he striped the seat down to the pan and used a gel covering underneath leather. The seat pan was also modified to be a little narrower and was cut down to be a solo seat.

IMG 20150520 135319
 
The seat was modified by Rich at Richscustomseats on the Olympic peninsula in Washington. It was a little expensive however due to my really short inseam the seat works a treat. The seat was cut down to make a solo seat with a deep cut to provide less height and leverage when parking lot maneuvering. I asked Rich to add the Moto Guzzi to the rear of the seat.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150515_162919.jpg
    IMG_20150515_162919.jpg
    185.7 KB · Views: 31
  • IMG_20150804_205152.jpg
    IMG_20150804_205152.jpg
    118.2 KB · Views: 29
  • IMG_20150804_205206.jpg
    IMG_20150804_205206.jpg
    128 KB · Views: 28
Mike, is that a R nine T in the background? The wife test drove a V7 Racer Saturday but didn't like the hunched over riding position. That's her next choice. How do you like it? I would rather her get a Griso but she thinks it's to wide. she too has a short inseam.
 
The R9T is not mine however I did sit on it with stock seat. The seat was very uncomfortable, the owner was getting 2 seated made by the shop. I did notice however that the leg reach was OK for me, I have about a 26' inseam. The riding position looks to be a little bent. The bike is outstanding in the looks department. To Add, the Griso has a much taller leg reach.
 
Back
Top