• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing++?)

RJVB

GT Reference
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
1,936
Location
Paris
A tech complement to my "Woof" thread in the chat section, to log everything related to the repairs.

First off, has anyone experience with repairing the fairing? I don't just mean getting and installing the plastic bits. As mentioned, the supportive skeleton/braces on which the bits are mounted is somewhat bent sideways. Not much, maybe just a degree off the midline, the right-hand side of the inner fairing sits just 4-5mm to the right of where it used to touch the tank protector cloth.
On the phone, the dealer seemed to part from the principle that the skeleton would have to be replaced, which is probably the default action to get an under-warranty bike like new again.

But is it necessary? I don't know what type of iron the braces are made of, but the displacement seems small enough to be bent back without weakening the metal. The question is of course whether the whole cage moved, or whether it was deformed. Any ideas?

(note to Mike.C: it really isn't tupperware. And I really wish it were - that stuff is unbreakable!)
 
You know I can't let that one go don't you :p

With your bike now "in the kitchen being cooked back to perfection" I would say that Tupperware is a pretty good description. LOL
 
I knew that ... but I stand by my remark. There are other kitchen utensils that aren't as indestructible as tupperware plastic (at least it was, in my days :p )
 
Have you given any thought to going 'naked' on the Norge after the crash? Just remove all the body work and put on a Breva headlight and windscreen?

As to repairing the hangers for the bodywork, if they are mild steel (which they appear to be to me) then a decent reapir person should be able to use an acetylene rig and put them right.
 
I might do that if ever this happens again to me (I'd try to preserve the head lights though, so much better than the Breva one...)

A new set of hangers it's going to be. Not that it couldn't be put right, but it's pushed and tilted to the right (something I noticed from the headlights, in fact). Not much, but enough. Given that the fairing pieces have to hook into each other like a jigsaw puzzle, it might be a bitch to get everything aligned (with the risk for the tabs we all know so well), so adjusting it might well take more time than just replacing it.

And replacing it is apparently something like a 5h job already??! I'd like to see some feedback on that, in fact!

BTW, what's an acetylene rig? Sounds like something to weld ... but nothing's broken as far as I've seen?!
 
Yes, an acetylene rig is for gas welding. If you have to bend mild steel, you can use one on a low heat setting (little or no oxygen) to heat the metal up when bending as it helps relieve the stress in the metal itself caused by bending.
 
Ah, ok. So that's what they should have done bending my centre stand's tang back the 1st time...

Oh well. I think I'll ask him what they'll do with the hangers that come off...
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

I would keep cutting torches away from it if possible, could do more damage then intended and then you would be doing a lot of internal paint work or powdercoat, which I think the factory does. Mild steel can be cold bent if there are no kinks where the damage is.
Best solution is to replace with new for the right fit of the fairing pieces.
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

If you are talking about the front subframe which holds the nose cone, then I can assure you there is nothing more than the lightest coat of black paint on it. Don't even think about Guzzi powdercoating.
And it will bend easily too.
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

Update, with a question.

As you probably saw, I crashed the bike onto its other side yesterday. I really like to do things well and equitably, one should think... :$

Anyway, the red triangle remains on when I switch the bike on. The motor runs, without funny noises, and I did not (yet) find any traces of oil. I'd guess that if it were oil-related, the amount lost during or just after the crash would have been enough to spot/smell even in a pitch black night.

The engine shows no traces of impact, but is there anything "in there" that's delicate enough to have been damaged by the sheer shock even if it was never touched? And how (in)accessible could that be? I can't help thinking of Bill's adventure with his oil pump of course ... I'd hate to think about the cost for repairing that outside of warranty!
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

WoW, sorry to hear about both of your dust up's, Rene have you tried reseting the ecu ?
The code is 28315
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

THought about it, decided against it. I prefer to leave any errors recorded for the dealer...
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

Went out to check ...

* Red light gone. The broken/missing bulb indicator on the LCD too, btw (funny, it shows a bulb symbol, and an arrow presumably pointing to the affected side. Never read anything about that yet.)

* engine still starts fine

* Went into the diag menu, and looked at the ECU and dash errors. First time I do that, so I'll describe what I saw. For both, 2 or 3 'pages' with a column of (error?) numbers, and to the right of it a column with little circles (2 columns, labelled A and M for the dash errors). Only circles. So either there are no errors (something could have erased them?), or I've got them all?
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

Wonder if the caking on the fins shown in this commemorative album :S have any relation to the triangle light. It does look like it's been there for a while ... header blow-by?
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

Hi, This is my first post as I am new to Guzzi, but long time Beemer rider. The fairing frame or bracket is almost impoosible to get straightened in an acceptable manner. If I understand correctly, you were right to buy/order a new frame. Ask my how I know that!
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

RJVB wrote:
Wonder if the caking on the fins have any relation to the triangle light. It does look like it's been there for a while ... header blow-by?

Had the same symptoms on the Minister's Nevada before Christmas, head bolts just needed nipping up - all sorted now.
 
Re:medium-speed-crash repairs on a Norge (fairing+

Wonder if that just might explain why I've been having an issue with idling speed starting with a really cold engine...!
 
Back
Top