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More power for the Griso1100?

grisolm1

Just got it firing!
Joined
Nov 3, 2008
Messages
17
Looking to get about 10-15 HP more. Have a Quat-D muffler, partially opened airbox and stepper tubes plugged. Bike runs sweet with no flat spots or popping, just want to go a bit faster without dumping in multi thousands. Here are some other areas I'm looking into for when the bike is out of warranty this winter. Anyone out there care to weigh in?

Are there any worthwhile Cams that could be used in the Griso1100 without causing valve to piston interference? Do the aftermarket cams from the older models work or are there differences in sensors etc that prohibit this? Bike has low enough gearing that I could afford to loose some low end if the top end is increased significantly.

How about the benefits of better flow around the valve seat area with a 3 or 5 angle valve seat grind and some mild rework in the valve pocket area.

What would be the max I could mill the heads and stay away from interference. This of course depends on the cam but does anyone know for a stocker, how much there is to play with. The real way to tell is by claying the pistons but I'm not touching the bike till after riding season. The stock pistons have been lightened from the older models, I'm guessing there is less material in the newer pistons to allow flycutting for valve clearance. Remember that when you go to longer duration cams the intake valve stays open longer into the compression stroke so increased static compression is usually needed.

The real question, will our HAL 2000 style ECU defeat any gains here? I have one possible solution I'm looking at, a tip from a Harley rider friend. Innovate Motor sports sells a wideband O2 Sensor model LC-1 that does 2 things. First it is a Wideband sensor that will give continuous AFR readings but more importantly it can offset the ECU. For instance it can supply the ECU a standard looking O2 sensor signal but actually do this around a programmed AFR of say 13.5 or what ever you choose. I can get one from my freind for next to nothing as he has gone to a PCV on his bike and never used it. They are $200 retail.
 
partially opening the airbox doesnt help much, because even though you gain just a little bit on the top end, the rest of the throttle range is really lean, and you lose your gains. Plus, the o2 sensor will over ride the change anyway, just give it time.

Apparently the problem with this ecu, is that it senses pattern changes, and using manipulators and stuff sets off a flag in the computer. I would say get the sensor thingy and check it on the dyno. I would love to see the results, before and after.

Todd is currently working on an ECU swap, which will disable the 02 sensor and can run a PCV open loop. It would also include a timing modification as well, and it will include an air filter ring, to eliminate the airbox top completely.
 
Hi Wally, welcome to the Forum. Love to get your info for the Registry as seen HERE.

So, clam covered most of it above... but here's what I've learned in the last decade of go-fast Guzzis. You can get to 90 rwhp fairly easily on a 2V 1064cc Guzzi motor, with simple head flow-work and modified intake and exhaust... and fuel management/correction. 90~95 takes a handful more, and nearing a hundred will set you back most of the cost of the bike. Have a read HERE. Your G11 is in a similar state of tune to the older V11S'.

The G2V uses a 5AM ECU which currently isn't easily modified. Under a seperate post/thread here "ECU swap/PC-V Update" I'm working on a solution to take a hold of the fueling. Other then replace the current ECU with something else, nothing is out there to properly modify what you need.
 
Not to step on your toes or bust on your knowledge, but when I removed the extremely restictive intake system , added my designed and partent pending carbon fiber battery box and added an aftermarket muffler, closing off the stepper motor, the engine rev's so much quicker. I did not run out of top end or did I lose any bottom end in fact it feels as if I gained more in the bottom end and again I did not lose anything on top but possibly gained. I am extremely pleased with my result and so is a Guzzi Tech that I know from Lewisberry PA. He has been in the building and repairing Guzzi's for over 20 years.
The plugs are burning fine they are not white or coming apart meaning running lean. So the O2 sensor is workimg to it's design and function. Did not rrmap since hte O2 sensor changes this in the computer. Bringing the bike from an altitude of 5200 feet to 4oo feet Prescott Valley AZ to PA the O2 sensor worked and is working perfectly as is the engine. The bike pulls so very strong.
 
I came across this company in Germany offering to work on Griso 1100 engines.....

http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/html/tuninggriso_e.html

At first I was tempted but then the 8v Griso came out and decided that if I wanted "more" it would be cheaper/simpler/quicker to just chop the old bike in for the new model........but realistically the G11 is quite enough for my riding abilities!
 
Griso Guy wrote:
Not to step on your toes or bust on your knowledge... in fact it feels as if I gained more in the bottom end and again I did not lose anything on top but possibly gained.
"Feel" is deceptive, often. ;)
Post your air/fuel dyno run charts at partial throttle as well as 100%. The best in the business have only gotten what I posted above over the last two decades. Hopefully you can prove it wrong. The new 8V has 96 rwhp as Dyno verified by Pete Roper with a GT-RX R/S exhaust. Once I get ahold of the fueling, close to 100 rwhp is feasible.
 
I'll will certainly have to put her on a dyno to post the results. Have to locate one first.

Doug
 
I'll plan to baseline dyno my bike sometime this season as well before doing anything more. I'm guessing low to mid 70 rwhp based on other charts I've seen on the web for this bike. I'll post what I get, but of course comparing different dyno's often doesn't mean much.

I know that sometimes there is a dyno difference in what gear is used, at least for Harley's. For Guzzi's do most just run top gear on the Dyno or a lower gear?
 
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