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Muffler Crack

phordman

Tuned and Synch'ed
GT Contributor
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
29
While doing some routine service I noticed a small crack in the muffler behind the mounting bracket. I had the crack welded shut and also had him run a bead around the round parts by the spot welds. That should cut down the vibration between the bracket and the can.

MufflerCrack-3f2b9f5c82284ba9a5358b3e9830e347.jpg
 
RacerX wrote:
Any way to get a photo by chance?

I'll pull the muffler off and post a pic in the next day or 2. Refresh my memory; what pixel size should I use for the site?
Since Bill had the same problem this may be something that is showing up when the odometer gets into the low 20's.
 
Bill Hagan wrote:
The Havens discovered same on my Norge when they did the 24K service last month.

Bill

Hey Bill! I'd like to see the GT Contributor! sign below your name.;)
 
Anything the Havens did to your crack, Bill? (erm, I guess --> :silly: )

Nothing on my muffler, but I pulled it at about 19000km or so.
 
Bill Hagan wrote:
The Havens discovered same on my Norge when they did the 24K service last month.

Bill

Bill,
your crack was the center crossover/collector/y-pipe.
We have seen a rash of these lately.
and 1 new one welded so poorly it leaked upon install.:angry:

I now keep one in stock.
Fits Norge and Sport 1200.
We've done 6, at a guess.
 
It seems to me that the stock muffler is rather heavy and the vibration will eventually start cracking at the mount. Tim, I have a stock can sitting in a box. It was baffled by the same folks that did yours in North Carolina. I thought it to be too loud so i bought a titanium after market can and am using that. If interested in purchasing the one I have, let me know. Will sell it for what the baffle job cost $450.00.
 
Hi,I am new to the site and have have posted today asking about the possibility of removing the cat from the standard sport silencer.I have just seen this thread and I am guessing you guys have already done this.
Could you give me some more info please?.I am in the UK.
 
Assuming that the Sport muffler is basically the same as the Norge unit the cat converter is in the front of the muffler. To remove the cat would require cutting the front cone including the collector from the main body. After the converter is removed the muffler would have to be welded back together. Alignment is critical as the header pipes have to fit the collector and the rear mount point has to be aligned with the mounting point. The man that rebuilt my muffler told me that there is no real reason to remove the cat other than to save about a pound. He replaced the stock baffles with a fibreglass core. All this work was done by cutting off the back of the muffler so alignment was not a problem.

Tim
 
The Sport muffler looks very much the same as the Norge apart from the 'carbon' wrap.What was the purpose for you doing this?I would imagine more sound and/or power.How has this worked out? are you happy with the results?
Sorry for all the questions but you are the first person I have found who has modded a standard muffler.
 
Kevin Drum's business in building motorcycle mufflers. His goal is zero back pressure at idle, with increasing back pressure as the rpm increases. He kept the cat in as this provides just enough back pressure at idle to prevent reverse flow. The bike is louder, some think too much, but it is just right for me. It's quieter than my V-11 sport. The bike pulls from 2500 rpm like it did from 4000 with the stock unit. I typically ride one gear higher than before as the bike is very happy between 3500 and 4000. I'd never go back to a stock unit.
 
The shop is only 60 miles from my place so I kept up on the conversion. The stock unit is a series of steel baffles. As Kevin explained to me, at about 4000 rpm there is enough exhaust pressure to flow through the muffler. This is why you feel the engine really starting to run at that speed. The open core lowers the rpm power band. The cat converter is clearly visible with the back of the muffler off and the baffle removed.
 
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