• Ciao Guest - You’ve landed at the ultimate Guzzi site. NEW FORUM REGISTRATIONS REQUIRE EMAIL ACTIVATION - CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDER - Use the CONTACT above if you need help. New to the forum? For all new members, we require ONE post in the Introductions section at the bottom, in order to post in most of the other sections. ALWAYS TRY A SEARCH BEFORE STARTING A NEW TOPIC - Most questions you may have, have likely been already answered. DON'T BE A DRIVE-BY POSTER: As a common courtesy, check back in and reply within 24 hours, or your post will be deleted. Note there's decades of heavily experienced Guzzi professionals on this site, all whom happily give endless amounts of their VALUABLE time for free; BE COURTEOUS AND RESPECTFUL!
  • There is ZERO tolerance on personal attacks and ANY HYPERLINKS to PRODUCT(S) or other competing website(s), including personal pages, social media or other Forums. This ALSO INCLUDES ECU DIAGnostic software, questions and mapping. We work very hard to offer commercially supported products and to keep info relevant here. First offense is a note, second is a warning, third time will get you banned from the site. We don't have the time to chase repeat (and ignorant) offenders. This is NOT a social media platform; It's an ad-free, privately funded website, in small help with user donations. Be sure to see the GTM STORE link above; ALL product purchases help support the site, or you can upgrade your Forum profile or DONATE via the link above.
  • Be sure to see the GTM STORE link also above for our 700+ product inventory, including OEM parts and many of our 100% Made-in-SoCal-USA GTM products and engine kits. In SoCal? Click the SERVICE tab above for the best in service, tires, tuning and installation of our products or custom work, and don't miss our GT MotoCycles® (not) art on the BUILDS tab above. WE'RE HERE ONLINE ONLY - NO PHONE CALLS MADE OR RECEIVED - DO NOT EMAIL AND ASK QUESTIONS OR ASK TO CALL YOU.
  • Like the new V100, GuzziTech is full throttle into the future! We're now running on an all-new server and we've updated our Forum software. The visual differences are obvious, but hopefully you'll notice the super-fast speed. If you notice any glitches or have any issues, please post on the Site Support section at the bottom. If you haven't yet, please upgrade your account which is covered in the Site Support section or via the DONATE tab above, which gives you full site access including the DOWNLOADS section. We really appreciate every $ and your support to keep this site ad-free. Create an account, sign in, upgrade your account, and enjoy. See you on the road in 2024.

MY 1400 Knocked of it's stand while parked.

Tubehead

Tubehead

Just got it firing!
Joined
Apr 27, 2017
Messages
19
Location
melbourne Australia
Somebody knocked over my bike on a in the car park of the cafe I had stopped at for a pee .
Was on it's side for literally a matter of a few minutes.
Cosmetic damage was amazingly minimal but on the way home the bike refused to rev past 4000 rpm at which point the left cylinder would drop out or at least it felt like that. Under 4000 rpm it was ok unless I really snaped the throttle open.
Checked all the obvious things like plugs and lose wires but all looks ok.
Any ideas as to what it maybe?
 
Are there any warning lights illuminated ?
Did the left grip get pushed in far enough to move the left hand switch assembly ?
Peter
 
No Peter no warning lights and left handle bar only had slight scratch on the clutch lever end but the whole assembly was twisted up on the handlebar which I just adjusted back down straight away.
Amazingly little damage considering .
A mark on the left running board the head cover and left muffler.
 
I'm thinking the only electrical switches that are on the left side are the clutch switch and side stand switch , both
of which are responsible for starting, not running issues . The only thing presently that comes to mind is if the fuel
pump was jarred or displaced in the fall over ? Try listening closely as the pump cycles on ignition , do you hear
anything after the initial prime ? Also it might be worth putting a flashlight into the tank and checking for bubbles ?
Clutching at straws maybe, but it costs nothing to try :) . Peter
Also , make sure the clutch switch is secure and physically working , they're rather delicate devices , it may be damaged
inside , try moving it a bit when the engine is running and see if it changes things .
 
Nothing to do with the fall after all .Removed bottom plug lead on left cylinder after much effort and appeared to be some green oxidation happening . That cap was jammed on the plug really tight .
They must need both plugs firing but would have thought one would have still been ok?
 
Tubehead said:
They must need both plugs firing but would have thought one would have still been ok?
Click to expand...
I think it has to do with coil resistance. The motor will not run well if either plug boot has failed. We've done many in my shop where both snap trying to get them off, despite every effort to avoid it. The NGK SB05E or F is a good replacement.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top