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Norge 1200 2v Electrical Problem

Norge GTL 1200

Norge GTL 1200

Just got it firing!
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
14
Location
Cairns, Queensland
Help, This morning whilst riding to work I was lane filtering thinking, ha how good is it to ride a bike in traffic, I got to the traffic lights pulled in the clutch and the Guzz died, tried to restart nothing, the dash lights died then they came back on, tried a couple more times with the same end result, so after the surrounding traffic disappeared I pushed her to a car area on the road side and tried to start her up this time all I got was the clunk sound, so I started to search for an easy fix problem. And there it was but not so easy fix the 40amp blade fuse in front of the battery was fried and I do mean fried, it was melted and the fuse holder distorted from the heat generated, I removed the fuse holder and had a look underneath and the main red wire had burnt out as well..... so any ideas???
 
Wow lucky you never had a fire, check that red wire along its length, sounds like it has shorted out directly to earth, could have chaffed through. Use a multimeter, I think that feed comes directly from the output of the alternator, could be a problem there, if the fuse holder melted there was a lot of current through it for a long time but not enough to blow the 40A fuse immediately. Happy hunting.
 
Fuses blow fairly quickly - the fact that everything was hot and fried indicated there has been a (very) bad connection, sufficient to cause much heat and the associated destruction this causes.

Of course you will have to rewire or get someone to do it for you (including replacing the fuse/holder - don't try to reuse it), you will also have to get the output of the alternator checked.

get it to a decent auto electrician if you can't do it yourself. There may also be other collateral damage, or indeed some other fault elsewhere that caused this to start. If you need, the circuit diagrams are available (thanks Carl) on this site and get one printed out as large as you can (take it to your local digital print shop, A3 minimum) to help this process - I am pretty sure your local auto electrician won't have one. Do you have a dealer near you that can help? We will also support you should you choose to do it yourself. Hell, you could fly me to Cairns and pay me good money to do the job!
 
Thanks for all that Tony, I'm pretty much all over what needs doing. Just got her home on the trailer, checked the battery with a multimeter across the battery terminals and it was very low 11V so now I have a multi stage charger on it pushing 12v @ 2amps over about 6 hrs to get it up to a usable level, Yep pretty much knew I was up for a rewire and new bits and bobs after seeing the damage but first I'm gunna do some deep fault finding and diagnosis before I even attempt any repairs. I have owned this girl since new in '06 and have conducted all her servicing sine it run out of warranty so we both have intimate knowledge of each others quirks and idiosyncrasies. I like the idea of a 6 fuse holder that I have seen on a forum thread on this site. I also need to start searching for a voltage regulator availability and prices. Also I am going to upgrade the wiring to suit the electrickery load that it's carrying.
 
Kevin.NZ said:
Wow lucky you never had a fire, check that red wire along its length, sounds like it has shorted out directly to earth, could have chaffed through. Use a multimeter, I think that feed comes directly from the output of the alternator, could be a problem there, if the fuse holder melted there was a lot of current through it for a long time but not enough to blow the 40A fuse immediately. Happy hunting.
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Thanks Ken, yep its gunna be fun...... not really what I was planning this weekend, I really didn't think of how lucky I was that there was no fire until you mentioned it... now that would have really ruined my universe :mad:
 
Norge GTL 1200 said:
I also need to start searching for a voltage regulator availability and prices.
Click to expand...

I believe you will find the voltage regulator is integral to the Alternator. Failure of one would require replacement of both. If it has failed, it is possible an auto electric shop could rebuild the alternator if they can find the parts. As Tony said, possible the alternator is OK and the wire melting was due to excessive resistance and not over draw of current which should have blown the fuse prior to melting wires. I suspect you will find traces of corrosion in the melted fuse holder which precipitated the failure.
 
john zibell said:
I believe you will find the voltage regulator is integral to the Alternator. Failure of one would require replacement of both. If it has failed, it is possible an auto electric shop could rebuild the alternator if they can find the parts. As Tony said, possible the alternator is OK and the wire melting was due to excessive resistance and not over draw of current which should have blown the fuse prior to melting wires. I suspect you will find traces of corrosion in the melted fuse holder which precipitated the failure.
Click to expand...
John on closer inspection of the now un insulated wire there is a suspicion of corrosion of the wire leading to the fuse holder
 
Brian UK said:
My bet is that the fuse was loose in the holder, which would cause a lot of heat due to the current passing through a high resistance joint.
Click to expand...
Brian funny you say that mate because after having the battery on slow charge all night i disconnected the charger and checked the battery voltage with a multimeter and I got a reading of 13v, I left it all day and checked it again when i got home after work with a reading of 13v... ok so far so good, then whilst the multimeter was connected to the battery the reading was 13v the ignition key was switched on reading of the battery 13v the bike was then started with a start load draw down reading of 11v then back to 13v then the bike was revved to 2000rpm with no change 13v, then I placed the 40amp fuse into the holder with the multimeter still connected the same procedure was followed and all the same readings were recorded except for the charge cycle when the bike was sitting at 2000rpm the reading showed the battery charge was 14v so everything seems to be working properly with no residual damage to the charging circuit .........Phew I think I have escaped a bullet there...... so Brian me ol mate I think your theory has merit mate
 
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