zoom zoom
Tuned and Synch'ed
Now that the board is back up, I'll begin reposting this stuff.
I have taken the opportunity to do some major removal of the body work, prompted by the thread about the headlight wire rubbing and the installation of the dip stick extention tube. Having removed ALL of it, I thought I might be able to provide some helpful info here. Hopefully, this may help some.
To begin with, the lower on the right side needs to be removed. Since this is part of the routine to get to the oil change, I will not elaborate. This next part is important. When I removed the chin spoiler, I discovered a broken tab on its left rear. The tab has a J nut on it and fastens to the lower on the left side. I now believe that I may have caused it to break as a result of improper disassembly. BEFORE REMOVING THE LARGE MOUNTING BOLTS ON THE CHIN SPOILER, REMOVE THAT ATTACHING BOLT THAT TIES THE TWO PANELS TOGETHER. I might also recomend putting something under the chin piece to support it until you're ready to work it off. Luckily, I was able to repair the break with JB Weld and reinforced it also. Lastly, remove the left side body panel. To this point, this is what we have been doing for oil changes. I felt it important to mention this portion because I believe that the chin spoiler began to sag under its own weight as I took it off and that's what broke the tab.
Now to the top: Remove windshield, and remove the two fasteners on the black cover behind the windshield. Set all off to the side. The dash panel is next. Four large allen head bolts, two per side, and 6 small allen machine screws, facing forward, need to be removed. As you move it backwards, it should release from the body. There are small tabs on the top point on either side of the windshield that just "catch" into the fairing. The dash panel should now be free. You will then need to disconnect a couple of wires. the dash connector uses a locking hinge piece to lock it to the dash. Press the release and move the hinge upward. You can then pull the plug. Next, you need to reach into the left side and disconnect the plug on the ABS button. That wire also also is in a little keeper on the main left body panel to keep it away from other stuff. Lifting it out of there first makes it easier to disconnect the plug. (The turn signal wire is also in that keeper.) As has been discussed here, the dash can be flexed enough to get it out without removing a handlebar, although it is a PITA! (I may consider removing a bar in the future??)
With the dash out of the way, you can now start on the front clip. From directly in front of the bike, looking up from the fender, you will see two small allen head screws. Remove them. Right in the middle where you just removed the screws, there may be another larger bolt. If so, remove it as well. (On mine, there is a hole there that lines up with mountings beneath, but had nothing in it. I also didn't see a bolt listed there in the service manual.) Before you proceed, remove the turn signals with the screw from the outside. Disconnect the wires and set the lens, reflector, bulb, off to the side. Make sure you lift the wires out of the clips I mentioned earlier. From the top, you will see three mounting screws per side. Two per side attach the front clip to the side panels. The one in the middle has large rubber bushings and ARE NOT the ones you want at this time. The one furthest to the back, and the one furthest to the front need to now be removed. At this point, you can flex the front piece by lifting up and out on the sides a little. There is a lip that sort of catches in the side panels. Begin to tip the clip forward a bit so the headlights start to point toward the floor. That should allow the entire assembly to move forward. Before you get too far, you then need to disconnect the two plugs for the lights. (It was easier for me to disconnect them at this point because it provided a bit more room. However, I needed to do it one handed so I could support the nose at the same time. If you feel it is easier for you, pull the plugs before starting to pull the nose.) Once the wires are disconnected, you should be able to pull the entire nose piece as you tip it down and forward at the same time.
The only thing left now are the side panels. With the turn signals out of the way, which I mentioned earlier, there are five attaching points left per side. Remove the metal brackets that are used to mount the side panels that you started with, and then remove that fancy nuts that the brackets were attached to. Then you can CAREFULLY pull out the mounting tab that goes into a rubber gromet kind of down where the exhaust loops around. (That was a rather dificult thing and the gromet actually came out on the pin instead of staying on its mounting. More on that later.) The bolt on the top back edge that goes into the tank can be removed, and finally, the last bolt going through the bushings on the front framework. Once that final bolt is loose, hold that panel and take out the bolt with the other hand. (So it doesn't drop on the floor.)
All body work is now off. I did this because I wanted to check the headlight wires as well as all the fasteners. I'm glad I did. The wire in my low beams was rubbing and in time would have become a problem. As it is that problem is now averted. I also discovered a couple of fasteners loose and the main bolt with the bushings for the one of the side body panels was cross threaded and loose also. Luckily, I was able to "dress" the end and make it useable.
For reassembly I would suggest using Anti Sieze on all fasteners, as most are J nuts on plastic. If those would rust up too much, future removal could easily result in broken body work! $$$$$$$$$
Also, use some dielectric grease on the rubber gromets before reassembly. That will make them much easier to put together and take apart in the future. I have been told DO NOT use silicone spray on those gromets. The transport agent may be harmful to the rubber. Use the grease, applied with your finger. Also, I filled the cavity on the side panels with JB Weld where the pin is located that goes into the rubber gromet, as many of us have already done on those small panels under the seat.
Unfortunately, once I put tools in my hand, I don't stop for pictures. I do hope that I have described well enough that others may use this info is so desired.
Disclaimer: No Yaks were harmed in the making of this documentary. :laugh:
Zoom Zoom,
John Henry
BTW: The dip stick extention tube fits very nicely between the cylinder and the body work. I did not need to remove any material or bend the tube.
I have taken the opportunity to do some major removal of the body work, prompted by the thread about the headlight wire rubbing and the installation of the dip stick extention tube. Having removed ALL of it, I thought I might be able to provide some helpful info here. Hopefully, this may help some.
To begin with, the lower on the right side needs to be removed. Since this is part of the routine to get to the oil change, I will not elaborate. This next part is important. When I removed the chin spoiler, I discovered a broken tab on its left rear. The tab has a J nut on it and fastens to the lower on the left side. I now believe that I may have caused it to break as a result of improper disassembly. BEFORE REMOVING THE LARGE MOUNTING BOLTS ON THE CHIN SPOILER, REMOVE THAT ATTACHING BOLT THAT TIES THE TWO PANELS TOGETHER. I might also recomend putting something under the chin piece to support it until you're ready to work it off. Luckily, I was able to repair the break with JB Weld and reinforced it also. Lastly, remove the left side body panel. To this point, this is what we have been doing for oil changes. I felt it important to mention this portion because I believe that the chin spoiler began to sag under its own weight as I took it off and that's what broke the tab.
Now to the top: Remove windshield, and remove the two fasteners on the black cover behind the windshield. Set all off to the side. The dash panel is next. Four large allen head bolts, two per side, and 6 small allen machine screws, facing forward, need to be removed. As you move it backwards, it should release from the body. There are small tabs on the top point on either side of the windshield that just "catch" into the fairing. The dash panel should now be free. You will then need to disconnect a couple of wires. the dash connector uses a locking hinge piece to lock it to the dash. Press the release and move the hinge upward. You can then pull the plug. Next, you need to reach into the left side and disconnect the plug on the ABS button. That wire also also is in a little keeper on the main left body panel to keep it away from other stuff. Lifting it out of there first makes it easier to disconnect the plug. (The turn signal wire is also in that keeper.) As has been discussed here, the dash can be flexed enough to get it out without removing a handlebar, although it is a PITA! (I may consider removing a bar in the future??)
With the dash out of the way, you can now start on the front clip. From directly in front of the bike, looking up from the fender, you will see two small allen head screws. Remove them. Right in the middle where you just removed the screws, there may be another larger bolt. If so, remove it as well. (On mine, there is a hole there that lines up with mountings beneath, but had nothing in it. I also didn't see a bolt listed there in the service manual.) Before you proceed, remove the turn signals with the screw from the outside. Disconnect the wires and set the lens, reflector, bulb, off to the side. Make sure you lift the wires out of the clips I mentioned earlier. From the top, you will see three mounting screws per side. Two per side attach the front clip to the side panels. The one in the middle has large rubber bushings and ARE NOT the ones you want at this time. The one furthest to the back, and the one furthest to the front need to now be removed. At this point, you can flex the front piece by lifting up and out on the sides a little. There is a lip that sort of catches in the side panels. Begin to tip the clip forward a bit so the headlights start to point toward the floor. That should allow the entire assembly to move forward. Before you get too far, you then need to disconnect the two plugs for the lights. (It was easier for me to disconnect them at this point because it provided a bit more room. However, I needed to do it one handed so I could support the nose at the same time. If you feel it is easier for you, pull the plugs before starting to pull the nose.) Once the wires are disconnected, you should be able to pull the entire nose piece as you tip it down and forward at the same time.
The only thing left now are the side panels. With the turn signals out of the way, which I mentioned earlier, there are five attaching points left per side. Remove the metal brackets that are used to mount the side panels that you started with, and then remove that fancy nuts that the brackets were attached to. Then you can CAREFULLY pull out the mounting tab that goes into a rubber gromet kind of down where the exhaust loops around. (That was a rather dificult thing and the gromet actually came out on the pin instead of staying on its mounting. More on that later.) The bolt on the top back edge that goes into the tank can be removed, and finally, the last bolt going through the bushings on the front framework. Once that final bolt is loose, hold that panel and take out the bolt with the other hand. (So it doesn't drop on the floor.)
All body work is now off. I did this because I wanted to check the headlight wires as well as all the fasteners. I'm glad I did. The wire in my low beams was rubbing and in time would have become a problem. As it is that problem is now averted. I also discovered a couple of fasteners loose and the main bolt with the bushings for the one of the side body panels was cross threaded and loose also. Luckily, I was able to "dress" the end and make it useable.
For reassembly I would suggest using Anti Sieze on all fasteners, as most are J nuts on plastic. If those would rust up too much, future removal could easily result in broken body work! $$$$$$$$$
Also, use some dielectric grease on the rubber gromets before reassembly. That will make them much easier to put together and take apart in the future. I have been told DO NOT use silicone spray on those gromets. The transport agent may be harmful to the rubber. Use the grease, applied with your finger. Also, I filled the cavity on the side panels with JB Weld where the pin is located that goes into the rubber gromet, as many of us have already done on those small panels under the seat.
Unfortunately, once I put tools in my hand, I don't stop for pictures. I do hope that I have described well enough that others may use this info is so desired.
Disclaimer: No Yaks were harmed in the making of this documentary. :laugh:
Zoom Zoom,
John Henry
BTW: The dip stick extention tube fits very nicely between the cylinder and the body work. I did not need to remove any material or bend the tube.