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Norge bulbs

RJVB

RJVB

GT Reference
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
1,936
Location
Paris
After about 38k km of loyal service, I think it's about time to change my lowbeam bulbs preventively (esp. as I think they're not as bright anymore).

So ... I'm not going to go through the full undressing ceremony just to figure out what bulbs are in there, and if I have to believe the 2 sources I have at hand, I have

- 2x H3 (low) + 2x H1 (high) — manual that came with the bike (a 2006 model according to the frame, bought in 2007)
- 2x H7 (low) + 2x H9 (high; 65W!) — the (french) december 2006 shop manual

Now I'm sure I have only 4 bulbs in there (disregarding the parking lights), and I also will assume they're paired. So ... what to pick? I've tried to look in from the front, but with the lenses it's hard to see what's installed (a HUGE filament if you look under the right angle :geek: ), esp. as said lenses are slightly milky. But there indeed doesn't appear to be a metal cap as found on the H7 bulbs (would that make sense in a condenser-style projector?)

So, what have you found? And, what kind of make/model choice will I have if it's H3? As far as I see, the Philips Motovisions don't come in that type... :(
 
German Motorrad performed a test on headlight lamps a few issues ago.
Only H4 in the thest, but I think you may find it informative anyway.

http://www.motorradonline.de/de/zubehoe ... pen/283833

- and the winner was......... Philips XP Moto.

The interesting part - or the moral if you wish - is: stay to the well known brands, ie (in Europe, at least) Philips or Osram.
 
Thx, but that isn't going to help much if indeed I need H3 bulbs...

The XP Moto bulb is a regular XTreme Power in a different packaging (and thus probably more expensive).
 
Thanks John. That'd be interesting, but they're not road-legal here. And brightness is good, but it should hinder others (an increasing problem, nowadays, making night riding with oncomers an act of faith...).
 
RJVB said:
Thx, but that isn't going to help much if indeed I need H3 bulbs...

The XP Moto bulb is a regular XTreme Power in a different packaging (and thus probably more expensive).
Click to expand...

I noticed that. Seems like H3 is outbound, not much to choose from.
Philips Premium and Osram Nightbreaker seems to be your alternatives. The later probably the better.
At least according to Osram... :mrgreen:
 
H3 outbound? Seems confirmed given the scarcity of choice in this "flavour", but on what timeline? Are we going to have to stock up, or shell out for a new optic array (provided they use different bulbs now)?!
 
RJVB said:
- 2x H3 (low) + 2x H1 (high) — manual that came with the bike (a 2006 model according to the frame, bought in 2007)
- 2x H7 (low) + 2x H9 (high; 65W!) — the (french) december 2006 shop manual
Click to expand...
I can tell you that Breva has H7 and H9. I think H3s are used on fog lights, not on low beams. My low beam H7 failed after about 35k km, of course in a middle of a trip. I found that you can't get by with high beam alone even on empty roads, it only illuminates far ahead.
 
Hmmm, yet someone on the French forum tells me he's put in H3 bulbs, confirming what Pete Roper found on the parts list...
 
H3 and H7 are very different from bulb or socket sides. You shouldn't have trouble identifying them just by looking
H3
bulb_h3.gif

H7
477.jpg
 
Below is the P/N information from the MG parts catalog for my '08 1200 Sport, USA. Norge should use the same bulb type.

2. Lamp - - - - - - - - - - - - AP8127109 1
3. Lamp H9-12V-65W - - - - 93450265 1
4. Lamp 12V-5W - - - - - - - -3450105 1
 
Reni, It isn't rocket science.
Even I could do it.
I replaced mine after they failed after only 10k miles. First one and then the other followed a few miles later. I got my replacements at a local chain automotive store with no trouble at all, it's a standard automotive lamp. You may have to cut a tie-wrap to find enough slack to get in there to work. But it isn't that bad.
Luigi must have had a little olive oil on his hands in the light bulb assembly line. :)
 
It may not be rocket science, but the Italians are clearly masters of conceiving royal PITAs! Took me 15 minutes to figure out how to undo the 2 tabs holding the inner fairing, only to find out that to go get real access, I'd have to remove the windscreen raisers' lower bolts and probably also the plastic triple-head cover. Now I just managed to get my hand in and remove the rubber sock under visual control, to confirm that there appears indeed to be an H3 bulb in there. Seems to have an attached bit of cable, and there's something stamped that should be H3 (didn't have a loupe with me though). Didn't even try to undo the metal clip, I'd never have managed to get it back in working outside in 7ºC temps.

Someone on the French forum apparently managed to change a bulb in 15min, working from below, with a mirror. I have yet to ask him how many joints he has in his arm... :blink:

It's inconceivable to me how a vehicle can be certified road-legal if it is that impossible to change a bulb at the roadside (remember we're under legal obligation to have them on all the time here).
 
Renè, I'll inspect my loose set here for you in ~hour, and let you know for sure. I suspect you are correct on the H3.

Guys, the Norge uses a unique 4-light set up which is largely different from the un-faired Breva/Sport.
 
Thanks, Todd. BTW, if you have any golden tips on how to get the job done without taking off the whole nose cone... I'd say thank you once more ;)
 
Confirmed; H3 bulbs. I suppose you could manage to replace the bulbs without touching any of the body work, but not on the side of the road in 7°C.
I'd recommend unbolting the bar risers and removing the inner fairing piece that the speedo/tacho assy is attached to. Just watch the ABS switch/wire. It will be simple from there. Lay the bar riser assemblies complete on a towel on the fuel tank, or perhaps hang them from above if you can.

Hope that helps.
 
Here's how I did the job
Replacing headlight bulbs:
I've done both the high & low beam bulbs on Norges. The procedure is as follows and is quite easy.
a) Remove the windshield
b) Remove the right handle bar assembly and move it back out of the way.
c) remove the dash cover along with the instrument cluster. The cluster wiring hardness is a simple rotating clamp
d) full access is now open to all four bulb sockets.

Randy
 
OK, thanks for those suggestions. Removing the windshield means at the risers, I presume (nb: I have the manual version, it appears on the lower bolts block the dash).

Randy: do you mean to remove the right handle bar complete with riser, or just the handle bar? What are the torque values for the handle bars and their risers?
 
Reni,
If you blow one lamp you still have the other side plus the high beams if you really have to. You might piss off the oncoming traffic but at least you will get home OK.

As I recall... You remove the windshield as it's in the way and also the cover over the windshield motor. Then unscrew about ten or so screws around the that black cover thingie on top of the faring and lift it up. You may find that it doesn't lift quite enough to reach in easily. Look around inside for a wire wrap that may be holding the wires down, find it and reach in and cut it, possibly from below. There is enough slack in the ABS switch wiring and that should not be a problem. I never saw a need to remove the handlebars. Why?
When you can finally reach in and yes it's tight, pop open the wire bails holding the lamp assembly in and presto! you can now access the lamps.

I wish my bike was here so that I may be more accurate but it's at the dealers just now.

Most of this info is in the owners manual but it is laking just a wee bit on the full nightmare of it all.

Pray for better weather. My in-laws say this winter is really bad.

A little afterthought.

Be extremely careful with all those little allen screws. It's easy to drop one into that rats nest of wiring generating a couple of "OH MERDE's". It took me several hours to locate one and even though I could see it, every time I tried to reach it, it would shift further down into the bowls of that dreaded nest. To Moto Guzzi's credit, those screws are of a good quality stainless steel meaning non ferrous, and sadly, non magnetic, in time, I was able to blow it around with compressed air until I could reach it.

You need really good light to work in. If you are outside and the day is dark and crappy, it just makes it just that more challenging.
 
Thanks, Brian. I always thought like you, until I started noticing that my light is becoming more yellowish, seemingly less powerful. Could also be the fact that my lowbeam lenses are (have turned?) a bit milky.

Anyway, an ex-Norge owner here sent me some pix of the optic block he replaced on his bike after an accident (he re-soldered the broken brace and offers it for 300€, I'm hesitating...). Turns out the answer is written on the back (kudos to the designer for that), but of course one can't see it under normal conditions (taking the kudos back ;) ).

Ahhh... first 2 rides (Friday and today) after more than 3 months nothing. New, stiff gloves, the results of 2 well-fed holidays, I was feeling a bit ... rusty :oops:
 

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