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Norge bulbs

Replacing the entire optic block sounds kinda scary. 300 Euros? yikes! I hope it's not necessary. I have no answer for milky. Anyone else out there with an opinion?
 
Hah, new the block costs 700€! 300 is what the guy asks for a used one with one of the mounting tabs "epoxy-soldered" back on... Only considering it because of the milky lenses, quite sure one can't get those as lose spare parts!
 
Bulb replacement on Breva is considerably easier :)
Don't forget that you can't touch glass portion of the bulbs with bare fingers.
 
RJVB said:
Hah, new the block costs 700€! 300 is what the guy asks for a used one with one of the mounting tabs "epoxy-soldered" back on... Only considering it because of the milky lenses, quite sure one can't get those as lose spare parts!
Click to expand...

I think someone here had some success with popping off the old lenses and re-gluing new ones but I'm not sure. I suppose you would still need the lenses anyway. Personally, I would be to afraid to screw the whole job trying it.
 
I did the operation today. I noticed that the front, polycarbonate shield seems to be held together with the body with tabs, so possibly one can disassemble the whole animal.

I also noticed that one of my crashes must have broken the upper left mounting tab off the optic block... the mechanic who did the repairs simply drilled 2 holes in the separated tab, through which zip-ties run that attach to the light-adjustment bolts. Seems to be holding...

Anyway, I got me a pair of Philips Premium H3 bulbs, seemingly a good compromise between output and longevity (rated 500 hours). To my surprise, the bulbs that came out were not the ubiquitous Osram Standards, but Philips... with the same part number as the new bulbs. :)

Also bought me a pair of H1 Night Guides (Double Life) for when the time comes to change the high beam. Curious to know how the claimed 3-colour beam will work out with our optics! ;)
 
On mine, the front polycarbonate shield was glued on, not just clipped. Took a lot of careful work to get it off.
I took it off a year ago because I found that the individual light units were bouncing up and down inside the unit. I discovered that the little ball joints on the end of the adjusters were all quite loose. Poor design.
I put springs over the screws which stoped the movement.
 
I suggested removing the right side handle bar, "that is the riser and bar assemble". This is not totally necessary, but will prevent scratching the black dash panel.

I just used common sense on re-installing to a good torque.


Randy
 
What I did was

- undo the inner fairing

- remove the windscreen with the 2 lower bolts (this is the manual version)

- remove the plastic cover from the triple head

The dashboard assembly can now be moved upwards enough (after undoing the dashboard connector) to gain access to the bulbs. I worked from the front of the bike, looking in from above, with enough room to manoeuvre both hands
 
RJVB said:
What I did was

- undo the inner fairing

- remove the windscreen with the 2 lower bolts (this is the manual version)

- remove the plastic cover from the triple head

The dashboard assembly can now be moved upwards enough (after undoing the dashboard connector) to gain access to the bulbs. I worked from the front of the bike, looking in from above, with enough room to manoeuvre both hands
Click to expand...
Now do that on the roadside on a dark and wet night. :evil: Just as well there are two bulbs, so the loss of one would not leave you stranded.
 
Yeah.

As I mentioned before, it's amazing that road homologation does not take this into account (for vehicles that are obliged to run their lights continuously) ... nor the reviewers.

And from what I understand, we're even relatively well off! A acquaintance with an R1200RT spent 1.5 hours replacing 1 bulb (passing underneath), I took a bit over an hour for 2 bulbs. And on some cars, a burnt bulb means an almost obligatory trip to a workshop (official price on a Renault Scenic: over 100€!)...
 
It's not uncommon, my daughter had a VW Lupo, and on that the instructions for changing the headlight bulb "take it to your nearest VW dealer".
I haven't asked the price of changing a Norge bulb in my dealer.
 
I guess I should have checked here first. All this talk about the Norge H3 bulbs on here. I just spent a bunch of time in the garage trying to get to the bulbs on my Norge so I could change them to Phillips X-treme 55W bulbs. After a lot of searching I found a pair of the H7 bulbs for it. That's right, H7. According to my owners manual and shop manual my low beams are H7. Imagine my surprise when I pulled out an H3. So now I have to order H3's and try to sell my open package of H7's. :x Moto Guzzi strikes again.
Having worked at a Honda dealership from 1973 to 1993 I have to say the install method and ease of access on the Norge is far worse than any of them up till them. Man that headlight socket looks chintzy. I can change the bulb, H4, in my PC800 in a dark parking lot in under 10 minutes. Been there, done that. I spent almost an hour getting one bulb out on the Norge. By the way, the dash does not pull up easily with Helibars.

Rudy
 
Brian UK said:
It's not uncommon, my daughter had a VW Lupo, and on that the instructions for changing the headlight bulb "take it to your nearest VW dealer".
I haven't asked the price of changing a Norge bulb in my dealer.
Click to expand...

Wait until the battery in the key fob goes out. Try this http://www.riskin.org/vwkey/ it worked for me. A VW parts man out of the kindness of his heart did the headlamp in five minutes I suppose that's not so hard either. The key battery change at the dealer is about $80 US. :pinch:
 
Something I left out of my earlier post. The manual lists H9 for the high beam bulb. Is this correct? I really don't want to pull the bulb unless I have to and I don't plan on replacing them now. I am also having a tough time finding a brighter than original 55W H3 bulb.

Rudy
 
abbienormal said:
I am also having a tough time finding a brighter than original 55W H3 bulb.

Rudy
Click to expand...


I think H9 for the high beam is correct. Don't waste too much time on finding bright H3s: the originals are Philips Premiums, which are plenty bright, but not so much that their lifetime is diminished significantly. I *think* Osram Nightbreakers exist in H3, and those *are* brighter (and bluer...) but last less long. There's no magic here: something that burns brighter at the same wattage also burns faster.
 
Rene,
Wouldn't brighter also mean hotter as well? I might be concerned about that pesky bubbling issue. The original lights are bright enough to suit most IMHO.
 
Brian:
No, 55W@12V is 55W and 55/12 = 4.58 amps. A more efficient bulb will heat *less*, as it turns more energy into light and less into heat.

I'm actually having a doubt about the high beam bulbs ... I think they're more likely to be H1 than H9. I know there's confusion in the different manuals :-/
 
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