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Norge Carc Seal

blackcat

Tuned and Synch'ed
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
52
Mine is leaking at 23,000 miles. How hard is it to change this seal?
 
It's not too big a job but care has to be taken.

Londonrob asked me to do a photoessay on it but with Mum being so ill I haven't had the time. Now she's in a Nursing home I'll hopefully have a chance to do the full banana on a CARC strip.

If the seal is leaking it may well portend the demise of the bearing. I've done several CARCs now and in all but one of them if the seal went the bearing was on the way out.

What I suggest you do is drain it, take it off the bike and then pry the seal out on the bench and examine the balls and what you can see of the races in a bright light with a magnifying glass. If you detect any brinelling of balls or races then do the bearing too.

Any play in the wheel detectable??

Pete
 
pete roper said:
It's not too big a job but care has to be taken.

Any play in the wheel detectable??

Pete

I have pushed/pulled in all directions and there is no play whatsoever.
 
Cat, taking the CARC off the bike is so friggin' easy it ain't worth the bother of doing it any other way. You're good with a spanner, just hook in.

Remove brake caliper.

Remove wheel, (You've even got a centrestand you woose!)

Remove speedo sensor, (If the Norge has it on the back? Not sure?)

Remove any munt associated with the ABS, (Never had an ABS bike in the W/S)

Disconect the torque arm.

Undo 4 bolts that hold CARC to swingarm.

Pull CARC off swingarm!

It's that easy. There should be no oil pouring out anywhere as the swingarm is dry. It'll also allow you to slap a bit of grease on the splines to the Pinion.

Drain the oil.

Once you have it on the bench prize the seal out with a screwdriver, (WITH CARE so you don't hurt the sealing surface.) .

Get yer magnifying glass and a bright light and look at the balls and what you can see of the races.

If you think they are OK just stick another seal in. The BMW one is cheaper and works just as gooder.

Pete
 
Get yer magnifying glass and a bright light and look at the balls and what you can see of the races.

If you think they are OK just stick another seal in. The BMW one is cheaper and works just as gooder.

Pete,

Your right. No use in worrying about it so I might as well take it off and have a look. Anyone know the part number for the BMW seal?
 
I did mine a few months ago when CARC still in situ. Seal can be leavered out with a screwdriver its that easy. New one taps in with care. As long as there is no sign of bearing trouble it should be okay. Mine still fine and not leaking with new seal after 3k miles.
 
Just to make sure--the first numbers are the Guzzi part number? What's the part number for the BMW seal?
 
I changed my leaking seal several thousand miles ago and it hasn't leaked again.
There is a bit of play in the bearing so thats a job for the winter when pete gets his box brownie out ;)
no rush mate, its not getting any worse.
 
mojohand said:
Just to make sure--the first numbers are the Guzzi part number? What's the part number for the BMW seal?

All the part numbers in the link referenced above are BMW part numbers.
 
I ordered the seal from Chicago BMW; $28.16 including shipping but they won't be able to ship until sometime next week. What does Guzzi want for this seal? MG Cycle is selling the seal for $76.00 dollars +or-.
 
draidt said:
Tom

Did you give MPH or MI a call ? they just might have the BMW seal in stock.

Dan,

I already paid for it and it isn't like I need the bike at the moment. Probably take the 1000S to the Florida gathering on Saturday; are you going to be there?
 
Why do you need a part number?
This might help though, any bearing stockist will understand.

The Guzzi part spec. is 85(I/D) x 110(O/D) x 8(Width) BASL

(BASL specifies the type of seal together with a back-up dust seal)

I found it next to impossible to match the width of 8mm but 10mm is easily available and fits OK.
It is important to get a viton seal in order to handle the temperature range encountered.

The BMW seal is 10mm.
 
Yes, Tom I am leaving today with a another Red Norge rider and have a cabin booked for tonight and tomorrow, looking forward to seeing you and checking out your 1000S
 
Brian UK said:
Why do you need a part number?
This might help though, any bearing stockist will understand.

The Guzzi part spec. is 85(I/D) x 110(O/D) x 8(Width) BASL

(BASL specifies the type of seal together with a back-up dust seal)

I found it next to impossible to match the width of 8mm but 10mm is easily available and fits OK.
It is important to get a viton seal in order to handle the temperature range encountered.

The BMW seal is 10mm.

Brian,

I did find two seals locally but they were 10.5mm which seemed too close for comfort. Anyway, its not like I was about to take a major trip so what's a few days?
 
draidt said:
Yes, Tom I am leaving today with a another Red Norge rider and have a cabin booked for tonight and tomorrow, looking forward to seeing you and checking out your 1000S

Seen you then. Hope you skip the rain.
 
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